Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2021, with only 31K miles and I have a leak. Date of purchase was April of 21 so I'm 4 month past the warranty date. This truck is still basically new and because it is four month past the warranty date they won't even look at it, but when I told them what the issue was they were well aware of the problem. Just said I had to go to a window shop. Com'on Chevy, you can do better then that.

Posted

Agreed. I have a 2020 and had the same issue last year.  Chevy said a faulty silicone job at the factory but would not take responsibility.

SOL I guess. Good luck. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

My 2021 developed the leak at around 40k miles.

 

I ended up sealing it on my own using butyl rope on the fasteners and some 3m 08367 black urethane seam sealer in the channel, following the DIY thread on here.  The job wasn't as bad I expected it to be, taking my time with dropping the rear half of the headliner and releasing the clips on the spoiler... didn't break anything.

 

Took my time cleaning the channel with soapy water, denatured alcohol, compressed air.

 

Two months and 2k miles later (and plenty of rain) so far so good.  I guess if it starts leaking again I'll go with a fixed window.

 

Hard to believe they haven't solved this problem.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I have a 2020 GMC Sierra SLT Crew cab its out of warranty and the back window is leaking on both sides of the window

  • 1 month later...
Posted
3 hours ago, Fernando martinez 17 said:

I just noticed a leak in the rear window area of my 2020 gmc 1500 Denali. The weird this is that the headliner is wet as if the water is coming in the top of the cab 

Could be one of the spoiler mounting bolts leaking.  It's all just a $hitty design all around.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2019 gmc sierra 2500hd. Just discovered my back window was leaking. Went to get in my truck and squish. The whole floor board is saturated. I'm just outside my warranty so who can I contact to have it fixed. 

Posted

Out of warranty you're best bet is to either seal it yourself or take it to any automotive glass shop (not the dealer).

Posted

Found where the leak is coming from.  The cabin pressure relief vent below the rear window on the drivers side.  Ordered a new one. Will be here tomorrow. Now just to see how to change it out. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Mine was repaired at the dealership with sealant a couple years ago.  I am not digging up the old thread I posted to before.  Mine hasn't started leaking again yet.  I would definitely be interested in a class action lawsuit though in the event it does.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

So I was told by a GM rep that they would fix the seal in my rear window (3rd light assembly). Now I'm being told they won't because it's out of warranty. They will do a cost assistance claim, which I was told by the supervisor at GM customer service wouldn't be worth it that I might as well use my extended warranty. My platinum warranty 5yr/100,000 originally told me they would cover it and now they wont cover it either because its concidered a leak. The dealership isnow telling me instead of sealing it the need to replace the window. What is everyone doing about this? My understanding is that this is a known issue for GMC and Chevy 2019-2023 models and that theirs a bulletin about this with the dealerships. How do I make GM pay for this since I didn't even know it was happening and it's been getting wet behind my leather seats all the way under it and my headliner is now stained. I would think this is causing a health issue with mold or mildew and a fire hazard since I have the electric back window and the defrost.  Grateful for any response or suggestions. I'm willing to contact whomever to get this resolved. Ive even though about contacting an attorney on the matter. Thanks. 

  • 9 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

And then 5 years from now, a law firm pockets 66% of the funds and each owner gets a check for $28

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...