Jump to content

Review on my speaker upgrade

capitalst

By capitalst
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
Posted (edited)

I  took delivery of my 2022 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with the Bose HD system two weeks ago.  I was not very impressed with the Bose system so I decided to start upgrading the speakers first to see how it sound before considering adding an amplifier. So far I have replaced my front door 6x9's and back door 6 1/2's speakers with the JL Audio C1-690x and JL Audio C1-650x speakers. So far using the stock Bose amplifier these speakers sound 100x better. More crisp and adds some more base to the system. These really bring the sounds alive when you turn it up. The only issue which will be handled today is the dash speakers. They overpower these new door speakers at lower volume due to the doors being 4ohm vs Bose's lower OHM.  I did decide to order the Kenwood KFC-X2C speakers to replace my dash speakers over the weekend which come today. These should complete the sound system and give a better balance along with a more crisp sound.   I will add to this review tomorrow once they are installed.  So far the JL Audio C1's are an excellent upgrade using the factory amplifier but If you go this route expect to upgrade the dash since it will not sound right til you crank it plus the dash Bose just ruins the overall sound experience IMO.  Very muffled sound. Sounds like someone put a towel over a great sounding speaker. How they had no tweeter in this speaker basket is beyond me. 

 

The original dash speakers really ruin the overall sound of the system and honestly Bose and GM should be a shamed that they put such crap speakers in these expensive trucks.  I spent $70k on this SLT and have had other vehicles for far less money that sounds better.  This is not an HD system as they call it and other manufactures like Ford and RAM have worked with better companies to put a lot better sound system into their vehicles.  I think Bose is done in my book for speakers.  The fact that this have no tweeters in them at all in this day of age is a shame.  Ether Bose needs to up their game or GM needs to find a better solution with someone else as a upgraded sound system.  I would pay for a HK upgrade or better.  

 

Either way this is my two cents on what I feel so far was a very cheap upgrade given all in cost for 3 sets were under $500.00 and works great with the stock Bose amplifier.  

 

 

UPDATE:

I added the Kenwood KFC-X2C dash speakers and all I can say is wow what an upgrade. Everything sounds sooo much better.  It really completed the system. I feel adding a amplifier to really tune it right is the next step but I would say this is a 8/10 upgrade with the factory HD Bose amplifier.  I highly recommend this setup to anyone looking to send under $500 bucks to upgrade speakers. All in all it took me about 2 1/2 hours to do the setup and Crutchfield gives you all the directions to do so.

Edited by capitalst
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

capitalst
capitalst

I  took delivery of my 2022 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT with the Bose HD system two weeks ago.  I was not very impressed with the Bose system so I decided to start upgrading the speakers first to see how it s

Firetiger(MN)
Firetiger(MN)

Dash  Sub  Front door  Rear door             

capitalst
capitalst

I think adding an amplifier that I can really fine tone things and the OEM kicker subwoofer will make everything sound better. Grant it would have been nice to have more than 6 speakers in the vehicle

Posted Images

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted

Just an FYI, the Bose front door speakers are 4 ohm. The rear door and dash speakers are 3.5 ohm. You can check this yourself on the speakers you removed. I haven't had the factory Bose sub out of the center console to see what its ohms were.

 

I completely agree that the Bose system in the 2022 refresh trucks sounds lack luster compared to the 2019-2021 Bose. My '20 RST with Bose had great sound. My '20 Equinox with Bose sounds awesome. My '22 LTZ with Bose sounded horrible in stock form. To get any bass out of the system (with Kicker door & dash speakers) I have to have the volume 1/2 way up.

 

I plan on adding an amp to drive the door speakers after the first of the year using the loopback harness. Hopefully it helps with the audio.

GETGONE Enthusiast

GETGONE

Posted
Posted

They're called Blows stereos for a reason! On my base radio in my 21 Custom I replaced the dash speakers with some ribbon tweeters I had laying around and added a bass blocking capacitor and it made a HUGE difference in bringing up the sound stage. I still think it has some mid range missing. I have a pair of MB Quart Reference 6 1/2's to put in the front doors. Depending how they sound I may put them in the back and order the 6x9 version for the fronts or maybe go with the 6x9 component set and replace the ribbon tweeters in the dash with the component titanium tweeters.

capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/19/2022 at 10:07 AM, mjonesjr84 said:

Just an FYI, the Bose front door speakers are 4 ohm. The rear door and dash speakers are 3.5 ohm. You can check this yourself on the speakers you removed. I haven't had the factory Bose sub out of the center console to see what its ohms were.

 

I completely agree that the Bose system in the 2022 refresh trucks sounds lack luster compared to the 2019-2021 Bose. My '20 RST with Bose had great sound. My '20 Equinox with Bose sounds awesome. My '22 LTZ with Bose sounded horrible in stock form. To get any bass out of the system (with Kicker door & dash speakers) I have to have the volume 1/2 way up.

 

I plan on adding an amp to drive the door speakers after the first of the year using the loopback harness. Hopefully it helps with the audio.

 

Interesting. I never checked. Usually, in the past they were 2ohm roughly.  I will tell you the JL Audio C1's were not as loud at the same volume. I just finished swapping the dash speakers with the Kenwood KFC-X2C speakers. I will be taking it for a car ride later to really listen to them and see how they perform. I can tell already that they are more crisp.  I have a feeling I will be adding an amplifier shortly to really tune all these speakers better since they don't exactly feel very balanced right now and I feel an amplifier will add power and I can tune things exactly perfect.  

 

Overall the upgrade was worth it but anyone looking to do this might want to invest in an amplifier to really set things right.  

SPASierra Enthusiast

SPASierra

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, capitalst said:

 

Interesting. I never checked. Usually, in the past they were 2ohm roughly.  I will tell you the JL Audio C1's were not as loud at the same volume. I just finished swapping the dash speakers with the Kenwood KFC-X2C speakers. I will be taking it for a car ride later to really listen to them and see how they perform. I can tell already that they are more crisp.  I have a feeling I will be adding an amplifier shortly to really tune all these speakers better since they don't exactly feel very balanced right now and I feel an amplifier will add power and I can tune things exactly perfect.  

 

Overall the upgrade was worth it but anyone looking to do this might want to invest in an amplifier to really set things right.  

I am interested to hear what you think now that you swapped the dash speakers.  I have JBL Club622's sitting here to go in the rear doors, and CD Audio tweeters for the dash.  Based on comments from mrjones, I haven't picked up any new 6x9s for the front yet.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
Just now, SPASierra said:

I am interested to hear what you think now that you swapped the dash speakers.  I have JBL Club622's sitting here to go in the rear doors, and CD Audio tweeters for the dash.  Based on comments from mrjones, I haven't picked up any new 6x9s for the front yet.

For my dash speakers, I put the Kicker ones in. I also installed a 600mHZ bass blocker. I can confirm that this setup changes the sound dramatically. Granted an amp will help, but the dash speaker change with the bass blocker made the biggest change. The only downside to the bass blocker is it will lower the volume on the turn signal and dash alert sounds that come out of the driver dash speaker.

capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

After a good week or so with the JL Audio C1's in the door and the Kenwood dash speakers I have to say they do sound great.  I have decided my next upgrade is the GM Kicker subwoofer kit 19417164.  Interestingly enough the bass is great on some songs but others very weak on others. I feel adding the kicker setup would really smooth out the bass response. My next upgrade if I feel that isn't enough will be adding the JL Audio XD600/6v2 to the 6 speakers to really fine tune things.  Don't get me wrong just changing the speakers out was a HUGE improvement but I can see there is a lot more I can do to really get things right.  

 

Sadly I really enjoy my 2016 F150 Platinum stock sounds system which was enough that I never changed things out. GM really needs to drop Bose as the speaker company or make that the base system not the premium. They are so behind and now with B&O and HK systems in others they suck IMO and also there isn't a very good balance of sound with the currently locations with the speakers but hoping if I do change the amplifier out this could fix that issue.  Anyone have experience doing an amplifier upgrade with new speakers??

After a good week or so with the JL Audio C1's in the door and the Kenwood dash speakers I have to say they do sound great.  I have decided my next upgrade is the GM Kicker subwoofer kit 19417164.  Interestingly enough the bass is great on some songs but others very weak on others. I feel adding the kicker setup would really smooth out the bass response. My next upgrade if I feel that isn't enough will be adding the JL Audio XD600/6v2 to the 6 speakers to really fine tune things.  Don't get me wrong just changing the speakers out was a HUGE improvement but I can see there is a lot more I can do to really get things right.  

 

Sadly I really enjoy my 2016 F150 Platinum stock sounds system which was enough that I never changed things out. GM really needs to drop Bose as the speaker company or make that the base system not the premium. They are so behind and now with B&O and HK systems in others they suck IMO and also there isn't a very good balance of sound with the currently locations with the speakers but hoping if I do change the amplifier out this could fix that issue.  Anyone have experience doing an amplifier upgrade with new speakers??

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have the harmon kardon system in my 21  Ram and am not impressed to say the least......seems car audio is a fickle thing

 

am sure ill notice when i pick up new chevy on monday but even coming from a standard base system in 22 silvy HD to the HK system i was shocked it was only marginally better.....i changed speakers out of my 21 elevation thru crutchfield and again barely noticeable.......think you have to spend alot of coin to get noticeable stereo improvements

 

its exactly correct......depending on station and signal it constantly changes, so was left chasing settings and i just got sick of it.....its a vehicle for commuting so use it for that purpose and never be disappointed, lol

Edited by Dunn
capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/30/2022 at 5:28 AM, Dunn said:

i have the harmon kardon system in my 21  Ram and am not impressed to say the least......seems car audio is a fickle thing

 

am sure ill notice when i pick up new chevy on monday but even coming from a standard base system in 22 silvy HD to the HK system i was shocked it was only marginally better.....i changed speakers out of my 21 elevation thru crutchfield and again barely noticeable.......think you have to spend alot of coin to get noticeable stereo improvements

 

its exactly correct......depending on station and signal it constantly changes, so was left chasing settings and i just got sick of it.....its a vehicle for commuting so use it for that purpose and never be disappointed, lol

I think adding an amplifier that I can really fine tone things and the OEM kicker subwoofer will make everything sound better. Grant it would have been nice to have more than 6 speakers in the vehicle to have better surround sound. It feels like behind your ears is dead sound.  Putting pillar speakers were the seat belts are could have made a world of difference IMO. I can only imagine how crapping things sound in the back seat. 

  • Like 1
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, capitalst said:

I think adding an amplifier that I can really fine tone things and the OEM kicker subwoofer will make everything sound better. Grant it would have been nice to have more than 6 speakers in the vehicle to have better surround sound. It feels like behind your ears is dead sound.  Putting pillar speakers were the seat belts are could have made a world of difference IMO. I can only imagine how crapping things sound in the back seat. 

Just picked up my new silverado with base sound system.....drove 6 hrs in ram to dealer and 6 hrs back in Silverado.....the HK system is better but it's not whole lot..better bass and just lil bit cleaner......maybe I just expect alot more than what is reality....

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
capitalst Enthusiast

capitalst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I finally had a chance yesterday to install the GM Kicker subwoofer kit.  First, let me tell you the instructions were not good when it came to splicing wires and more importantly what the wire was you cut into.  I tried from videos to figure it out and cut the yellow and yellow/black wire and connected the green and brown wire of the kit going upwards. In the end nothing worked and realized my right door speakers didn't work. After looking at the Crutchfield instructions when I replaced my speakers sure enough the yellow and yellow/black are the door speakers.  I called Kicker kit  help desk turns out I was only suppose to tie into it not cut it. After fixing this all works.

 

As for the subwoofer kit its nice and does put out a lot more bass but its a bit more boomy than hard hitting. That might change after breaking it in which I will let you know about in a few weeks.  Setting the bass as mid is about where the sub needs to be but than the rest of the sound from the speakers isn't rich enough. Luckily I bought the kicker bass knob which comes today so I can turn the base to about 75% which the speakers like and turn the sub down should bring it all together.  Overall, the install wasn't too hard.  As for sound quality I would give the Kicker so far a 6/10 since its too boomy right now. Again, this might change after a few weeks.  

 

Updates to come.

  • 3 months later...
SPASierra Enthusiast

SPASierra

Posted
Posted (edited)

When you installed your rear speakers, how did they sound initially?  I swapped my dash speakers for the Kenwood today, and it was a huge change. I moved on to the rear doors where I installed JBL 622 Club speakers, and when I isolate them, there is almost no bass and the highs are barely there unless I turn it up over halfway. I have a set of JL C1-690x’s for the front doors to put in tomorrow, and wonder if they are going to make it all sound worse. 
 

Update:

I installed the C1s this morning, and the whole system sounds better. I’m on the fence about grabbing the C1s for the rear doors (so they will match brands with the fronts). I’ll give it a couple of weeks and decide then. 

Edited by SPASierra
  • Like 1
SPASierra Enthusiast

SPASierra

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Russ757 said:

For the in dash speakers, did you all just splice or did you use an adapter? If so, link? 

I bought the adapters listed in another thread, just to find out that they didn't work.  I cut them off, stripped back some of the fabric tape, and used posi-taps.  Easy to reverse and I didn't have to cut off the plug.  https://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP502/Posi-Products-Car-Speaker-Connectors.html?tp=2610

Firetiger(MN) Enthusiast

Firetiger(MN)

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Russ757 said:

For the in dash speakers, did you all just splice or did you use an adapter? If so, link? 

 

Metra 72-4573 worked in my '23 with Bose. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...