Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Another vote for the Bed Rug.  I have a hard folding bed cover, so I never bothered to put down the velcro.  It stays in place just fine and is easy to clean.  Vacuum it off, or just take a hose to it.  Great at keeping things like luggage and golf bags from sliding around.

Posted
31 minutes ago, luke1333 said:

I have just the bottom bed rug from GM accessories and works great! Some things slide just a hair but 90% of stuff doesn't move!

I just looked at GMC Accessories and they show one that's like the BedRug branded XLT, but I'm not sure if GM is selling the two piece bed mat and tailgate or the one-piece XLT. I wonder if their chat people would even know. Same price as what BedRug has on their website. It would be nice to be able to get it from GM using my rewards.

Posted

Have any of you with BedRugs successfully slid heavy items like a desk or a bookcase into the bed, or does it grip so well you need to use a moving blanket under the furniture like you would a rubber mat? 

Posted
23 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Have any of you with BedRugs successfully slid heavy items like a desk or a bookcase into the bed, or does it grip so well you need to use a moving blanket under the furniture like you would a rubber mat? 

A BedRug is not as “sticky” as a rubber mat.  You can slide things on it.  It has some grip, but not much.  Something like a box will slide pretty easy.  Something with some weight will not slide too easily because of the cushion of the BedRug.

 

Regarding the original question, I have a BedRug (just the mat) on my spray in factory liner and am very happy with it.  I also have a tonneau cover and together they make essentially a big trunk like the big boats used to have (like a Crown Vic).

Posted

Factory rubber bed mat is the way to go. Won’t spray liner another box. 

Posted

Another vote for Dee Zee. I've used them in 3 trucks including my current 2019 with factory spray in liner. Simple heavy rubber. You can throw anything on it. Easy to wash. 

Posted
On 1/4/2023 at 4:57 PM, GN2018 said:

A BedRug is not as “sticky” as a rubber mat.  You can slide things on it.  It has some grip, but not much.  Something like a box will slide pretty easy.  Something with some weight will not slide too easily because of the cushion of the BedRug.

 

Regarding the original question, I have a BedRug (just the mat) on my spray in factory liner and am very happy with it.  I also have a tonneau cover and together they make essentially a big trunk like the big boats used to have (like a Crown Vic).

Thank you for the explanation, and sharing why you chose a Bedrug over a rubber mat. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/3/2023 at 2:18 PM, MrLeadFoot said:

I just looked at GMC Accessories and they show one that's like the BedRug branded XLT, but I'm not sure if GM is selling the two piece bed mat and tailgate or the one-piece XLT. I wonder if their chat people would even know. Same price as what BedRug has on their website. It would be nice to be able to get it from GM using my rewards.

The one I have is a whole one piece, over the tailgate and everything. But they may have changed it since I got mine almost 3 years ago now

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, luke1333 said:

The one I have is a whole one piece, over the tailgate and everything. But they may have changed it since I got mine almost 3 years ago now

Turns out they don't have the 1-piece mat and tailgate like you have for my Denali, but maybe they don't have the model designed for the multipro tailgate. Do you have the multipro tailgate? 

 

In any event, I've read some reviews on the XLT (1-piece mat and tailgate) where some people said it negatively affected their tailgate closing, and one person said that to avoid that problem the piece over the tailgate gap should be trained to pop up out of the gap, instead slip down into the gap, when closing. What's been your experience in that regard, and any thoughts on that, Luke? 

 

Also, I don't know if all models have it but although I have a spray in bedliner, I have plastic on the inside wall of my tailgate. Does your tailgate have that plastic liner on the inside wall? If so, does the Bedrug tailgate piece actually stick to that piece well? 

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted

I had the full BedRug liner in my 2018 and it had the tailgate section.  I did not like it.  It never stayed stuck to the tailgate.  The truck did not have the spray in liner.  It was just factory paint.  So I put up with it.  On my ‘21, I do have the spray in liner and see no real need for the tailgate or walls of the bed to be covered with the BedRug.  The mat just covering the bed floor is sufficient.  The complete liner might have a better look to some, but if you’re installing it under a tonneau cover, it’s not something that will be visible under normal operation.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, GN2018 said:

I had the full BedRug liner in my 2018 and it had the tailgate section.  I did not like it.  It never stayed stuck to the tailgate.  The truck did not have the spray in liner.  It was just factory paint.  So I put up with it.  On my ‘21, I do have the spray in liner and see no real need for the tailgate or walls of the bed to be covered with the BedRug.  The mat just covering the bed floor is sufficient.  The complete liner might have a better look to some, but if you’re installing it under a tonneau cover, it’s not something that will be visible under normal operation.

I agree that I really don't need the bed walls covered since I have spray in liner. But, I was thinking that the 1-piece might be nice for moving large items in and out of the bed because you can more easily slide them in and out on one contiguous piece of rug that spans tailgate and bed. And, when hauling mulch or small rock groundcover, nothing would fall into the gap between tailgate and bed. 

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted

I agree that the tailgate piece would be nice when sliding something into the bed.  As for gravel and such, I’m sure it would still get in between the gate and the bed - just not as much.  Personally, even with the BedRug, I’d throw down a tarp if I was hauling mulch or something like that just because it would make for easily clean up.  Plus, at some point the weight of the material would become low enough as you’re removing it that for that last bit, you can just pull the tarp out instead of trying to scrape/rake/sweep that last bit out.

Posted
17 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Turns out they don't have the 1-piece mat and tailgate like you have for my Denali, but maybe they don't have the model designed for the multipro tailgate. Do you have the multipro tailgate? 

 

In any event, I've read some reviews on the XLT (1-piece mat and tailgate) where some people said it negatively affected their tailgate closing, and one person said that to avoid that problem the piece over the tailgate gap should be trained to pop up out of the gap, instead slip down into the gap, when closing. What's been your experience in that regard, and any thoughts on that, Luke? 

 

Also, I don't know if all models have it but although I have a spray in bedliner, I have plastic on the inside wall of my tailgate. Does your tailgate have that plastic liner on the inside wall? If so, does the Bedrug tailgate piece actually stick to that piece well? 

I do have multipro and mine is not designed for the multipro unless you cut it out. It can indeed negatively impede the tailgate if not properly installed/aligned. It sits tucked up under bed cover and I did cut the corners off so it sits flusher against bed cover rails.

 

I would not say it sticks to the tailgate plastic well, I usually replace the tape on it once a year or it will start to peel as you see in photo. I will replace in springtime when it gets warm again

 

mat2.thumb.PNG.0b7e5c7f8f739bb71fba259610958283.PNG

mat.thumb.PNG.c8975aba88a7f4313d248920e901c23e.PNG

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, luke1333 said:

I do have multipro and mine is not designed for the multipro unless you cut it out. It can indeed negatively impede the tailgate if not properly installed/aligned. It sits tucked up under bed cover and I did cut the corners off so it sits flusher against bed cover rails.

 

I would not say it sticks to the tailgate plastic well, I usually replace the tape on it once a year or it will start to peel as you see in photo. I will replace in springtime when it gets warm again

 

mat2.thumb.PNG.0b7e5c7f8f739bb71fba259610958283.PNG

mat.thumb.PNG.c8975aba88a7f4313d248920e901c23e.PNG

 

 

If you were to do it all over again, would you get the current model that fits the multipro tailgate, for convenience of sliding things in on the tailgate, or would you get just the rug for the bed, and figure out something else for covering the tailgate gap when hauling mulch or rock, etc. (like you previously mentioned a out using a tarp for those occasions)? 

Posted
13 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

If you were to do it all over again, would you get the current model that fits the multipro tailgate, for convenience of sliding things in on the tailgate, or would you get just the rug for the bed, and figure out something else for covering the tailgate gap when hauling mulch or rock, etc. (like you previously mentioned a out using a tarp for those occasions)? 

I would get same one. I don't use truck for hauling mulch/rock etc. Only thing I would think about is the whole bed rug that goes up sides of bed but I don't really use multipro either so that is no issue to just leave tailgate completely covered

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had an 88 K1500 with a 5.7 that had those symptoms, I know totally different, it ended up being the ECM. Once you get the fuel system fixed if it still runs lousy you may want to investigate that. it didn't set any codes, stalled ,ran rough at times etc
    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...