Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just want to add, if you are going to spend the money for this mod (and I do believe there are way cheaper ways to do this).  Put that rubber plug in on the side of the intake box.  I'm telling you all, it went from sounding like trash to one of the best sounding intakes I've ever owned.  Seriously....I know it's been kind of a fiasco up to that point but I'm telling you, it sounds amazing!!  If I had a do over.  I would probably grab some rubber 1" plugs, drill about 6 holes in the front of the factory airbox (below the filter of course) using a 1" hole saw, throw in a flat panel whatever kind of high flow air filter and adjust the sound and flow using the rubber plugs.  So there's your tip on how to save money and make it sound great.  But damn, the way it is now is definitely the best sounding intake I've ever had.  And I'm not saying it will sound like mine just by drilling some holes in the intake box....it may or may not because the setup I have eliminates that huge whatever it is in front of the throttle body.  Just FYI all.

Posted

Stillen has a air scoop to replace OEM at the top of the grill. Helps direct more cool air in toward air filter box. I haven't gotten it yet, but will be getting it down the road. 

Posted
On 5/6/2023 at 12:36 PM, Randal Scott said:

Stillen has a air scoop to replace OEM at the top of the grill. Helps direct more cool air in toward air filter box. I haven't gotten it yet, but will be getting it down the road. 

Interesting.  Please keep us updated.  This might save many a lot of money down the road.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Would be interested in a before and after of towing with this set up. I'm guessing without a load, the engine being torque sensing, is defeating any benefit.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Did any of you gain any fuel mileage after installing a cold air intake.

I'm thinking of an S&B for my 2023 with 6.6 gas

Posted
5 hours ago, EPL said:

Did any of you gain any fuel mileage after installing a cold air intake.

I'm thinking of an S&B for my 2023 with 6.6 gas

I have a 22 2500 gasser that I installed the S&B on and the answer is a resounding NO!  If I had a do over, I would have left the stock intake on it and saved myself 350 bucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the quick reply. 

I think I'll save the bucks too and stay with stock,

Much appreciated 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

A few years back motorweek did an analysis on cold air boxes. The results was there can be improvement in mileage. The conclusion was you probably won’t keep the vehicle long enough to get the advantage. Most of my life I didn’t tune my vehicles, add cold air and put loud exhaust on for any reason other than the chance for improved performance. My butt and ear said, yea baby! From as far back as adding a 4 barrel, duals, and a B&M shift kit to the early Chevy truck engines. Sometimes even changing the rear gears. That was my goal. Gas mileage improvements? That happened too. Especially in the early days. Did I care? Not a bit.😎

Edited by KARNUT
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 5/6/2023 at 11:36 AM, Randal Scott said:

Stillen has a air scoop to replace OEM at the top of the grill. Helps direct more cool air in toward air filter box. I haven't gotten it yet, but will be getting it down the road. 

@Randal Scottdid you ever get this? details?

Edit: Why would you run this on a gasser if the intake doesn't take air from there?

Edited by reb0957
Posted

On a gasser this is where it gets it's air from. As long as you have a closed  cold air intake in the OEM position. I didn't get one of these. I looked closely at theirs and modified my OEM to work about the same. There is a post on here showing what I did. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 12/11/2023 at 5:28 AM, Randal Scott said:

On a gasser this is where it gets it's air from. As long as you have a closed  cold air intake in the OEM position. I didn't get one of these. I looked closely at theirs and modified my OEM to work about the same. There is a post on here showing what I did. 

Any update on how your mod has worked?

Posted

They (Stillen) talk about how the stock grill pipe is susceptible to high IATs from radiator heat. I've noticed heat soak is pretty bad on my truck after sitting in the school pickup line.

 

 

Makes me want to test plugging the front of my airbox and running directly off the hood air and see what happens (I have the world's only known L5P intake on a gas truck 😁). The inlet size of the DMax box top probably isn't much different than the gas front box opening. I'll have to measure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...