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I have searched and watched tons of youtube then will plan to change the oil and filter by myself for my 2022 LTD LT 2.7T. Before pulling the trigger, I just want to make sure everything is right. We know many use different brands of oil for their own preference and reason. I will just use Mobil Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 with a "Dexos-1" mark on it. I know more fancy/expensive brands of oil are better but I think it will be ok as long as the oil is changed at 5K miles regularly unless this specific oil does not go along with a 2.7T engine. Here are my questions....

1. Can anyone who has used Mobil Advanced Full Synthetic share your experience? Good vs. bad vs. ok....

2. Is using the OEM filter for this Mobil still ok or do I need a different/specific filter?  

3. Does the drain plug seal (blue o-ring) have to be replaced at each oil change as well, how about the drain plug (it is plastic!!!)? My dealer has not charged this, which means it does not need to be changed at each time? On the other hand, Honda has always charged for a drain plug washer for CR-V every time.

4. I will keep the receipts of the oil and filter just in case to maintain my powertrain warranty up to 60K miles. Is it enough or should I do more?

Any other good tips? Thank you.

Edited by Interleukin6
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Any 5w30 full synthetic with a Dexos 1 label on the front is good to go.  You can go to Redline or Amsoil if you wanted, but not a requirement.  Everything on the shelf at Walmart for example should meet Dexos 1 Gen 3 so they'd all be good. 

 

OEM filter is a great option.  You can use either the regular PF-66 or upgrade to the UPF-66R which has a better internal construction and higher quality media.  Wix would be another good choice.  

 

Drain plug is re-usable unless its damaged or leaking.  If you felt the need to, the entire plug is cheaper than just the o-ring.  12713651 is the number of the plug.  

 

Receipts are a good move to have just in case.  This would then support that you've used a Dexos 1 compliant oil and if you use a factory filter that would look even better if for some reason something happened to the engine under warranty.  

Edited by newdude
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Records are all well and good. But you don't have to prove you did the right thing, they have to prove you didn't. Blow back all ya want. You are not guilty until proven innocent. Inocnet until proven guilty. No yea but to it. 

 

That out of the way. 

 

Dexos licensed oils MAY be better than those that are not and generally this is even true apples to apples. And while that might make a guy feel all warm and fuzzy truth is those branded licensed oils at best SLOW the rate the motor gets dirty. They do not PREVENT, nor do they have the ability to CLEAN. Those oils used per the OLM will not keep that motor clean. Fact is all OEM's have a permissible amount of varnish they see as just hunky dory. 150,000 miles is the target and then their business plan says you need to buy new.

 

Proof? They quit supporting a warranty at 60K these days unless they lose a class action or a diesel. They also consider a quart in anywhere from 1K to 2K 'normal'. They use cast pistons in turbo motors with 10:1 or more compression suggesting 87 octane fuels. (Ecotec 2.0T). 😱 TSB's galore on even the Ecotec3 series motors on ring/piston replacements without cylinder prep that are not widely known and it's a BS fix. But they will drag you to death with consumption checks the go on forever and chemical cleans that work for like an oil change. Just wear your butt out. They don't care so it's on you sir. GDI pumps have access to the crankcase. Tank vents fail regularly purging into the inlet. Injector issues are common. Pig rich fuel maps. Coil triggers now in the coils and fail intermittently enough to drive you to distraction. Your interest are not theirs. 

 

The hardest part of the motor to keep clean is the rings and ring lands. I make a deal out of this as the search for the last Nth of mpg has brough the OEM's to 'low tension rings' and ultra-light oils. Ring sticking and oil consumption. I cut the OCI from 7.5K to 5K thinking that would be good enough and may have been IF the GDI HPFP hadn't leaked into the pan for lord knows how long. Nope. Stuck rings. Huge consumption and a multiyear cat fight to claw back utility. Got it to 200K and still driving it. Local GM dealer service writer can't believe I got it that far. She asked how and I told her "Without ANY help from GM". :crackup:

 

You want to use a shelf Dexos1 oil? Have at but give it a fighting chance and change it every 2-3K and keep the tune sharp as a razor. Don't ever let the same thief steal from you twice. :crazy:

 

I like my GM's. I liked my Honda's. Even liked the Fords and Toyota's I've owned. They ALL take the same amount of dogged vigilance. 

 

Seems no one noticed that SIDI engines cut oil life to shreds. Eveny one but the owner is quite happy with that. 😉 

 

:rant:

 

 

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On 6/5/2023 at 10:54 AM, Interleukin6 said:

I have searched and watched tons of youtube then will plan to change the oil and filter by myself for my 2022 LTD LT 2.7T. Before pulling the trigger, I just want to make sure everything is right. We know many use different brands of oil for their own preference and reason. I will just use Mobil Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30 with a "Dexos-1" mark on it. I know more fancy/expensive brands of oil are better but I think it will be ok as long as the oil is changed at 5K miles regularly unless this specific oil does not go along with a 2.7T engine. Here are my questions....

1. Can anyone who has used Mobil Advanced Full Synthetic share your experience? Good vs. bad vs. ok....

2. Is using the OEM filter for this Mobil still ok or do I need a different/specific filter?  

3. Does the drain plug seal (blue o-ring) have to be replaced at each oil change as well, how about the drain plug (it is plastic!!!)? My dealer has not charged this, which means it does not need to be changed at each time? On the other hand, Honda has always charged for a drain plug washer for CR-V every time.

4. I will keep the receipts of the oil and filter just in case to maintain my powertrain warranty up to 60K miles. Is it enough or should I do more?

Any other good tips? Thank you.

Can't go wrong with M1 oils, I've been using it since the 80's in practically all automotive and small engines(lawnmower, snowblower, generator, motorcycles and 4stroke snowmobiles) with no issues.

When draining the oil out of your 2.7 I highly recomend draining into a 5 gallon bucket, oil comes out fast and furious from the ginormous drain hole, and it keeps the splash contained, trust me on this one.

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Any Dexos 1 Gen 3 is fine.  Use the factory oil filter as a minimum, but don't hesitate to upgrade.  I installed a Fumoto drain valve on my 5.3 to keep from having to worry about leaks and stripping threads on the drain bolt, but I don't think there is one available for the 2.7 yet.  

 

Don't get slack with your maintenance.  These engines require vigilance with their maintenance, but will reward you if you do your part.

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Took my '99 5.7 Yukon to 220k miles and sold it running fine on Dexos approved full synthetic oils. SuperTech and Kirkland brands to be specific. '11 5.3 Tahoe to 150k miles on the same oils, no issues, traded it in for the Silverado. 

All changes done at OLM at 10% on both. AC filters. 

6.2 in the Silverado is getting the same treatment, not to the first change yet. 

All the trucks had and will have towing duty also. 

Severe maintenance schedule is your friend, do not forget to change trans. fluid either. The above listed trucks all were sold with their original factory trans. shifting fine and serviced every 30-40k miles. 

Edited by repairman54
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