Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, BB68 said:

 

Mine was 3.55s  and that trip was a mix of 60 and 70 mph. Also mind you that was back before our gas went to sheet with our base gas still at 87 octane and one of additives being banned by epa

All my trucks were modified with at least a hand held tune requiring premium fuel. Along with modified induction and exhaust. Before the mid eighties high rise intakes, headers sometimes cams. They were so lame HP wise, we would go through them. Being much younger all nighters for performance was common. That would include my brothers and even my father. 

Posted
On 6/26/2023 at 11:09 AM, SC4R3C120W said:

I'm in the 3.0 diesel and commute 120 miles. Here's my 400mi mpg average with best listed.

IMG_5832.JPG

IMG_5834.JPG

I've never gotten anywhere close to that.  22 was my best -- 500 mile round trip.  You must be driving very flat terrain.  What oil do you use?

Posted
53 minutes ago, Jworks said:

I've never gotten anywhere close to that.  22 was my best -- 500 mile round trip.  You must be driving very flat terrain.  What oil do you use?

Yeah i can only laugh at some of the estimate mileage ratings from people here and not a chance is either a 5.3 or 6.2 getting 30 mpg, not unless you are driving down a mountain.🤣

  • Like 3
Posted

Beg to differ. My overall MPG out of the computer has been consistent with hand calculation.

 

And 30 mpg with a 3.0 diesel is a lot more common, obviously, than a 5.3 V8. I averaged at around 23 mpg.

 

Now, if I were to do a 400 mile trip completely on the highway, without stopping, I can do it.

 

The way it is, I drive 48 miles on the highway and it gets 30 mpg. Then I drive two miles uphill to my house, it's a killer so I watch the average drop down to 25. It sucks.

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, KARNUT said:

All my trucks were modified with at least a hand held tune requiring premium fuel. Along with modified induction and exhaust. Before the mid eighties high rise intakes, headers sometimes cams. They were so lame HP wise, we would go through them. Being much younger all nighters for performance was common. That would include my brothers and even my father. 

 

Our 70's 80's 454s received 60's 396 cast iron intakes($40 swapmeet items) a mild cam, and dual glass pack exhaust. results in +4 mpg on them with about 425hp 500lbs torque. very fun vehicles after that. btw we would reuse the factory Qjet   

Posted
17 minutes ago, BB68 said:

 

Our 70's 80's 454s received 60's 396 cast iron intakes($40 swapmeet items) a mild cam, and dual glass pack exhaust. results in +4 mpg on them with about 425hp 500lbs torque. very fun vehicles after that. btw we would reuse the factory Qjet   

My 92 Chevy lowered truck engine.

IMG_0088.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted
On 6/28/2023 at 3:16 PM, Luc1f3r said:

LOL what are yall doing, drafting big rigs to get these numbers?

Best ive done on a long trip is 20.

19 at4 with 6.2 and 35s.

My pic is from an LZO.

 

Previous was an LM2 that got a little over 26 mpg across 36,000 miles. 

Running 55 - 60  it would get the 25 mile page over to low-mid 30's any day on level ground, no wind, not drafting.

 

Posted

People get confused in thinking that it’s the measurement problem or miss calculation. Actually it’s the drive. Slow and steady up to speed will net the best results. Allowing ample time to reach your destination. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

This is one thing I miss about my Chevrolet.. my Ford F-150 with PowerBoost gets 26 on the highway.

 

That's because the PowerBoost doesn't have cylinder deactivation...

 

With the Chevy, it could go down to one cylinder (about 50 hp, right?). 50 hp provides sufficient power as long as I am very easy on the gas, going a steady 60 mph, on a very flat surface.

Edited by Wiggums
Posted (edited)
On 6/29/2023 at 12:49 PM, Jworks said:

I've never gotten anywhere close to that.  22 was my best -- 500 mile round trip.  You must be driving very flat terrain.  What oil do you use?

 

I use the ACDelco 0-20W that we're supposed to use. Change oil every 5k miles. I typically put on cruise control at 60-65mpg in the morning to work when there's no traffic. If i kept to 55mph, i've seen 40mpg no problem (mostly level ground in Los Angeles). on the way home, it's literally stop and go for 2.5 hours, and i still see the 30mpg average.

 

BTW, i'm in a RST that i put a 3.5" RC lift (top spacer), new UCA, and a 2.5" block in rear.  I changed tires from 265/65/18 (31.5" tall) to 275/70/18 (33" tall). Last, i did the resonator delete and a new hose from the air box to turbo inlet tube. I can't get a CAI in California becasuse of emissions, but if i could change anything else, it would be the turbo inlet tube that comes with the S&B CAI system. From what i've seen, the bigger box and filter actually loses power and pedal response. But unfortunately, they don't sell just the tube, and it's not California legal. 

 

 

image_1080d60d-c92b-4a12-afe3-9d3e7cb0d884_1024x1024.jpg

image_180edcb2-8fe5-4f73-a9f7-efbd286d4d45_1024x1024.webp

Edited by SC4R3C120W
  • Like 1
Posted

here's some older pics showing mileage has been consistent.... the onscreen numbers where actually less than what my calculations were.

IMG_5859.JPG

IMG_5860.JPG

Posted
20 hours ago, 64BAwagon said:

There are 2 things that guys will exaggerate measuring, one of them is mileage. 

 

Ummm, are you claiming people are photoshopping their pics here for internet points? That doesn't even make sense. 

 

The reason some are getting atrocious mileage is due to having 35" tires, and/or lifts. My best (6.2) 50 mile is about 32.3, but this was a very downhill route on a two lane road. Not something I expect to see again. My normal "400 mile" is pretty consistent at about 23-24 under normal "hwy" driving. I have a high country with all seasons. I don't have AT's, which also murder mileage. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...