Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 12/31/2023 at 1:54 PM, 4banger said:

that 6.2 has massive jugs, have a hard time thinking that’s same block as the 5.3

 

This confirms it.  You don't know.  That's not an admonishment..... you are smart, enthusiastic and like to spread knowledge.  So I'll help you with a few points. 

 

You are definitely on point that the 2.7L is a lighter power plant than either the 5.3L or 6.2L.  You are wrong about the physical size.  Generally speaking GM has been making one size (external dimensions) engine block per each generation of V8 they produce.  The exception is back in the day when there were distinctions between "big block" and "small block" engines.  The last "big block" engine in a production vehicle was in 2010.  In absence of that big block differentiation..... all GM V8's use the generational block design..... and the external dimensions don't change meaningfully....its the internal castings of the blocks that might be different or even materials between the blocks. 

 

For the current generation 5.3L and 6.2L they are both aluminum block Gen V V8's.  External physical dimensions are the same.  Weight differences negligible..The 5.3L should have more block material because of smaller cylinders but the 6.2L should have a slightly heavier crank because of the slightly longer stroke.  But at the end of the day it would be negligible and not noticeable. 

 

Other things you have to consider weight comparisons are the transmissions and definitely the trim levels.  A Custom Silverado vs a AT4 is going to have weight differences that will be attributable to extra features.  Plus the AT4 likely had a 10 spd.... no idea if the custom did.  The 10 speed is definitely heavier.  but based on what you said I dont think you can logically draw 500lbs difference due to the engine being pig heavy. 

 

I'd venture to guess most of your observations are seat of the pants feel that is probably very much bias fed....... and that's ok.  You are really happy with your truck and you should be.  But let's spout facts. 

 

 

Posted (edited)
On 12/31/2023 at 4:06 PM, dieselfan1 said:

 

The weight of a 6.2 is actually about 80 lbs lighter than a cast iron block 5.3.

All 6.2s are aluminum block.

5.3s can be aluminum block also but most are cast iron.

I also didn't buy the 6.2 to save gas. 

 

 

...you do realize the 5.3 has been all aluminum since 2014...right?  Block and heads.  L84 vs L87 the weight isn't all that far apart for the current engines 5.3 and 6.2.  

 

2013 was the last year for an iron block/aluminum head 5.3 which were gen 4 LS.  They offered both iron block/aluminum head and all aluminum in gen 4 LS and I believe late gen 3 LS.     

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I did not say the 535 lb difference was all motor. Learn to read better. I said I don’t know much of that difference was motor. Yes 10 spd vs 8,  yes at4 stuff, spray liner, 10” longer box, leather sunroof side steps. We know at minimum 160 lb was motor lol but the gmc 6.2 felt like a tank compared to lighter nimbler custom. 
 

Now that we cleared that up. Pump your air with 8 cylinders or 4 and 1 turbo. The only possible advantage I could come up with for the 8 was subjective....sound. A useless measure. And in fact for truck duty for long highway and outdoorsman stuff the stealth of the turbo motor has proven a bigger winner also. 
 

enjoy your lifters and weight and loss of power at elevation and fuel economy etc

Posted

Base curb weights straight from GM for a Crew Cab Short Box 4x4, lifted;

 

w/L3B 2.7L - 5010lbs

w/L84 5.3L - 5080lbs

w/L87 6.2L - 5240lbs

 

ZR2 w/L87 6.2L - 5550lbs

ZR2 w/LZ0 3.0L - 5710lbs

 

Looks like a 70lb difference between the 2.7L and 5.3L, the extra weight of the 6.2L truck is from additional standard features like bucket seats, heavier axle, etc.

Posted
11 hours ago, 4banger said:

I did not say the 535 lb difference was all motor. Learn to read better. I said I don’t know much of that difference was motor. Yes 10 spd vs 8,  yes at4 stuff, spray liner, 10” longer box, leather sunroof side steps. We know at minimum 160 lb was motor lol but the gmc 6.2 felt like a tank compared to lighter nimbler custom. 
 

Now that we cleared that up. Pump your air with 8 cylinders or 4 and 1 turbo. The only possible advantage I could come up with for the 8 was subjective....sound. A useless measure. And in fact for truck duty for long highway and outdoorsman stuff the stealth of the turbo motor has proven a bigger winner also. 
 

enjoy your lifters and weight and loss of power at elevation and fuel economy etc

While I agree the 4 cylinder is one bad motor. From my first V-8 Ford truck a 289 to my Avalanche the V8 sound is a symphony to me. Driving my 50K miles a year the rumble of those twice pipes made the trip. My biggest enjoyment of driving my avalanche besides it’s a truck. Hearing the V-8 rumble at startup and cruising. I appreciate the other engines, I got to have that sound. 

Posted
9 hours ago, Egghaus said:

Base curb weights straight from GM for a Crew Cab Short Box 4x4, lifted;

 

w/L3B 2.7L - 5010lbs

w/L84 5.3L - 5080lbs

w/L87 6.2L - 5240lbs

 

ZR2 w/L87 6.2L - 5550lbs

ZR2 w/LZ0 3.0L - 5710lbs

 

Looks like a 70lb difference between the 2.7L and 5.3L, the extra weight of the 6.2L truck is from additional standard features like bucket seats, heavier axle, etc.

Have you made up your mind about which truck to buy?

Posted
On 11/11/2023 at 10:05 PM, Dunn said:

LTZ way better value, everytime i see a TB I think the dude just doesnt know any better....your paying a premium for something you can do better....

 

AT4 is a different story....

OR it could be that the TB owner found a truck that looked like he wanted and doesn't have the time nor the care to do all the work himself.🤷‍♂️

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 1/9/2024 at 6:08 PM, Bikerjon said:

Have you made up your mind about which truck to buy?

Nope, still waiting because it seems like prices are coming down in Canada. I still want the Trail Boss, but the withholding of options still annoys me.

 

Another gripe is why do the RST and TB, the sporty and rugged off road trims, have fake wood trim on the interior? I could not think of a worse choice, it should be black or something with a metal look/pattern to it. Of course in the AT4 and ZR2 there is proper carbon fiber pattern trim. I guess it's a classic strategy, you're still getting hosed price wise on the lower trims, and to step up trims and get proper options, you're really bending over. 

Edited by Egghaus
Posted

Honestly, buy a Z71 or X31 package truck with the options you want and for about $500 parts and less than $500 labor if you can't do it yourself you will have a better truck than a Trailboss/AT4.  Tires will be extra but still less than the TB/AT4 premium and you'd have to choose pretty poorly to not get a better tire than the Goodyear crap.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 1/8/2024 at 9:17 PM, 4banger said:

I did not say the 535 lb difference was all motor. Learn to read better.

 

I based it off the fact you were using that one experience and the weight difference to base your judgements on and you cited 500lbs.  Sure you said you didn't know how much that was attributed to the motor BUT you attributed your entire opinion of it feeling like a heavy pig because of the motor. 

 

Egghaus got it right.  There is roughly 70lb difference between the V8 and the 4 Banger fully dressed.  6.2L trucks have a heavier transmission, and more standard equipment.  Those are not meaningful weight differences. 

 

You are happy with your 4 Banger....... and no one is saying you shouldn't be.  Is it really necessary for you to justify your liking of it by spouting off statements not based in reality but just based on your own self admitted uninformed opinion on the other solid options? 

 

I guess you got us with the lifters.  You win?  Is that what you are looking for when no one is saying there is anything wrong with your choice....but also noting that there really aren't the problems you think with the others.  But if validation is what you are looking for..... I guess you can take the W with the lifters.  Or the W with NA ICE losing power at elevation. Hopefully you got the validation you are looking for and don't feel the need to justify your enjoyment of your truck by trying to take down others!

Posted
On 1/15/2024 at 11:09 AM, Egghaus said:

Another gripe is why do the RST and TB, the sporty and rugged off road trims, have fake wood trim on the interior? I could not think of a worse choice, it should be black or something with a metal look/pattern to it. Of course in the AT4 and ZR2 there is proper carbon fiber pattern trim.

 

Yeah classic differentiate trim strategy...... the good news is that you can get some overlays that look nice and cost way less than the upgrade to the upper trim levels.  I just did that in mine last month and am pretty happy with the aesthetics.

Posted
23 hours ago, SporkLover said:

I based it off the fact you were using that one experience and the weight difference to base your judgements on and you cited 500lbs.  Sure you said you didn't know how much that was attributed to the motor BUT you attributed your entire opinion of it feeling like a heavy pig because of the motor. 

 

Egghaus got it right.  There is roughly 70lb difference between the V8 and the 4 Banger fully dressed.  6.2L trucks have a heavier transmission, and more standard equipment.  Those are not meaningful weight differences. 

 

You are happy with your 4 Banger....... and no one is saying you shouldn't be.  Is it really necessary for you to justify your liking of it by spouting off statements not based in reality but just based on your own self admitted uninformed opinion on the other solid options? 

 

I guess you got us with the lifters.  You win?  Is that what you are looking for when no one is saying there is anything wrong with your choice....but also noting that there really aren't the problems you think with the others.  But if validation is what you are looking for..... I guess you can take the W with the lifters.  Or the W with NA ICE losing power at elevation. Hopefully you got the validation you are looking for and don't feel the need to justify your enjoyment of your truck by trying to take down others!

the engineers in video said 5.3 is 160 lbs heavier, also, two headers, two cats, dual exhaust? the 4 banger has one of everything, it would be hard pressed to outweigh a typical modern aluminum 3.5 v6, yup...no lifters, one head, one string of valves, lighter trans, it's less of everything to support it and you feel it on the nose and in handling overall and my assessment of the 6.2 handling as a wallowing fat pig compared is still accurate, I spent time in both, 3 weeks with the pork chop knowing I was getting the turbo, I paid extra attention to log the differences, anyone else here do the same?, I'll take that W for no lifters, and another for boost and having no power losses due to elevation, another W for having peak torque 1100 rpm less...and another for having way more peak torque lol...can you solve for the lifter stuff on the 5.3? sounds like it...still a good motor, I've got a gazelle that can pull stumps lol and one of only 2 engines the gm engineers admitted to not being able to kill in trying to kill them in testing...

Posted (edited)
On 1/15/2024 at 11:30 AM, AJMBLAZER said:

Honestly, buy a Z71 or X31 package truck with the options you want and for about $500 parts and less than $500 labor if you can't do it yourself you will have a better truck than a Trailboss/AT4.  Tires will be extra but still less than the TB/AT4 premium and you'd have to choose pretty poorly to not get a better tire than the Goodyear crap.

 

“Goodyear crap.”  Coming from someone who drives cheapass Coopers. AND Goodyear owns Cooper. You can’t make this **** up. . . 🤣

Edited by MaverickZ71
Posted
10 minutes ago, MaverickZ71 said:

 

“Goodyear crap.”  Coming from someone who drives cheapass Coopers. AND Goodyear owns Cooper. You can’t make this **** up. . . 🤣

Goodyears have a lot of history over the past several decades of “meh” performance and worse. 
 

Yes, I’m aware Goodyear bought Cooper 2 years ago. Still not happy about it.

 

Priced Cooper tires lately?  You sound like a brand snob. Interesting choice to pick Goodyear to defend though. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...