Jump to content

Oil filter confusion

Jimbeau
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jimbeau Enthusiast

Jimbeau

Posted
Posted

1st oil change. 2023 Sierra 5.3

Decided to change myself instead of taking to the dealership for the free oil change.
Went to purchase Mobile1 Dexos1 oil and filter. Filter type: STP Extended Life part number S10590XL. I noticed they have 2 sizes with the same exact P/N (see pic). One of which is about an inch longer than the other. Removed them from the boxes and sure enough one is longer. Used the cross reference book to check out other brand options. I found quite a mix of long verses short options that all show to fit my 5.3 engine.

I assume the long one is better but want to make certain I have this correct. Of course the parts guy had no idea.
I searched the forum and found some mention of bypass pressure differences which only added to my concerns. 

 

Thank you. 

IMG_0714.jpeg

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted (edited)

Being your still under warranty I would stick to the original AC oil filter which I did and still do even though iam out of warranty on my 2019 due to the fact if something would happen to the motor under warranty they can't blame it on the aftermarket oil filter. Also save your receipt and write the mileage on the receipt incase something would happen you have proof you changed the oil. Don't forget to reset the OLM.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Silverado4x4
64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

Not sure what the story is on the STP filter. In light of the confusion I would look at a different brand. The AC PF63 is the filter for your truck but youre under no obligation to use an AC filter to maintain your warranty. If youre buying your filter at A-Z youre paying too much. Walmart had a much better selection for less $$. Around here the Chevy dealer sells AC filters for less than Walmart. 

Jimbeau Enthusiast

Jimbeau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I just picked up a PF63 at Walmart but the confusion between short and long is mind boggling, especially being the same part numbers. I sent an email to STP requesting clarification. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Perhaps one is a copy of PF26 and the other PF63? 

 

A couple years ago, GM changed the recommendation for several applications from PF26 to PF63. 

They indicate that PF63 is preferred but that PF26 is acceptable when PF63 is not available.

 

 

 

The PF63 filter is 3/4 inches (19 mm) narrower than the PF26 filter, but it has a taller pleat height, which maximizes volume efficiency and cold flow performance. (Fig. 7)

 

 

F07-filter-2.pngFig. 7

 

 

Service Information and the Parts Catalog will be updated shortly. For more information and part numbers, refer to #PIP5870. 

 

 

I generally use Delco filters, but I don't buy them at a dealer.

 

'Free' oil change is really a 'pre-paid' oil change.

Might as well make use of it. 

Doesn't have to be at the dealer that sold the vehicle.

Edited by redwngr
  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, Jimbeau said:

1st oil change. 2023 Sierra 5.3

Decided to change myself instead of taking to the dealership for the free oil change.
Went to purchase Mobile1 Dexos1 oil and filter. Filter type: STP Extended Life part number S10590XL. I noticed they have 2 sizes with the same exact P/N (see pic). One of which is about an inch longer than the other. Removed them from the boxes and sure enough one is longer. Used the cross reference book to check out other brand options. I found quite a mix of long verses short options that all show to fit my 5.3 engine.

I assume the long one is better but want to make certain I have this correct. Of course the parts guy had no idea.
I searched the forum and found some mention of bypass pressure differences which only added to my concerns. 

 

Thank you. 

 

 

 

I would not use the S10590 or S10590XL filter.  The bypass pressure is too low and set to the original PF48 spec of 12-15psi (same as the PF48).  The PF63 is 22psi.  They bumped this due to the tighter oil passages and oil pump operations.  

 

TSB on PF63 applications - temp.xml (nhtsa.gov)

 

AC Delco PF63 or UPF63R are the factory filters you can get, Mobil 1 M1-212, Motorcraft FL500S or Wix WL10255 are some good picks also.

Edited by newdude
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Jimbeau Enthusiast

Jimbeau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks. I went with a PF63 off the shelf at Walmart and will continue to use this filter in the future. How do we know if this is the current PF63? Have the original PF63s been discontinued? 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Jimbeau said:

Thanks. I went with a PF63 off the shelf at Walmart and will continue to use this filter in the future. How do we know if this is the current PF63? Have the original PF63s been discontinued? 

 

 

I have revised my above post slightly.  The PF63 is 22psi bypass from day one, my error was stating it was lower initially.  The PF48 which was on the early 3.6 V6 engines was replaced by the PF63 due to the oil pump changes and oil galley changes which required that PSI bump.  The 2014-up V8 truck engines got the PF63 due to their changes as well from the Gen 4 small blocks prior which used the PF48.  

 

All PF63 and proper crossed filters should be good but verify the bypass PSI still.  The three I listed are spec'd at 22psi bypass, from all the data I found on the STP its 15psi unless they haven't updated that information.  

  • Like 1
Jimbeau Enthusiast

Jimbeau

Posted
  • Author
Posted


STC responded to my email: Now I’m even more confident about not using their product. 
 

my email:

I’m confused About your S10590XL filter. Tried to purchase two of them and realized theres 2 versions with the same exact part number. One is about an inch longer than the other. Please Explain?

 

Response: 
Thank you for contacting STP.  Regarding your inquiry, Kindly note that the Oil Filter is a licensed product by AutoZone. Please contact AutoZone to get further assistance. We have provided their contact information below.

 


Wow. Glad I went with a legit PF63 instead is dealing with the A..Z BS

 

  • Like 1
Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted (edited)

I know that the actual GM part number has changed, but my 2019 show the actual part number as 19330000.

 

It's confusing since PF-63 is the general number, but if you can find the part number listed in your owners manual, GM updates the filter often it seems and so do a search for the actual part number filter.

 

As for the STP filter, it's not a bad filter, but like others have posted, Walmart has the better price and also sometimes the dealer will have it, just depends on your location.

 

The AMSOIL filter is the EaO17, which I run on our Suburban and my Silverado.

Edited by Black02Silverado
  • Like 1
Jimbeau Enthusiast

Jimbeau

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What the heck is the deal with AC Delco part numbers?  For the PF63 I’ve found 3 different part numbers. 
My 2023 5.3 manual says to use GM part number 12707246.

I’ve found 2 other GM part numbers for a PF63. 12735811 and 12731742. See pics. 

 

IMG_0730.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...