Jump to content

Heavy towing

Ronjon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I need some input on the subject. I have a 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 lm2 z71 crew cab, 4" lift, air bags, Bilstein 5100 rear shocks, and 34" tires with a door rating of 9300lbs towing capacity. I've towed over a 1000 miles hooked up to a hummer h3 with 35's, winch bumper, and back seat drawer on a uhaul trailer before with ease from NC to TX in my truck. However I am looking to buy a 34' Travel Trailer with the following weight ratings.

"WILDWOOD 28VIEW TRAVEL TRAILER"

Dry Weight 7,753 lbs.

Payload Capacity 3,512 lbs.

GVWR 11,265 lbs.

Hitch Weight 1,065 lbs.

 

I never intended on towing it with the tanks full. I will be living out of it and will only be towed for moving from one camp to another, not frequent use. Should I still be safe as long as I don't exceed ~1800lbs in the trailer cargo?

I will also have a "Weigh Safe True Tow Middleweight Anti Sway Weight Distribution Hitch 6" Drop 2" Shank 12,500 lb Tow Rating"

 

Thank you!

20230527_135913.jpg

bobder41 Enthusiast

bobder41

Posted
Posted

The way you modified your truck it will not tow it for long before you have issues

  • Like 2
Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the case that this is not the one for me. What dry should I be looking for on a travel trailer?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Just remember that it could only tow 9,300lbs when stock. WIth the added weight of the lift, wheels and tires you are probably under 9,000lbs now. Getting the weight of the truck with nothing inside it and with a full tank of fuel would let you know what you can technically tow. But with it being lifted like that, I'd never exceed 8,000-8,500lbs but thats just me.

 

If you do plan to tow a travel trailer with it, I think the weight of the trailer itself can only be about 6,000lbs max when dry. That leaves you enough weight for to put over 1,000-1,500lbs in it safely.

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)

Look smaller.  Try a trailer that has a GVWR at or below 9000lbs.  

 

 

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So what I'm hearing here and the other forum is 5k to 6k dry with a max weight under 8k? Y'all talked me out of the 30+ foot models. 25-30 foot is what I'll look for. Also I'll be getting leaf springs rated for another 660lbs over the OEM, dunno if that helps my case (no more lift block). My tires are also load E (10 ply) with forged 3600lb rated wheels.

Edited by Ronjon
64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

Aside from the weight, a half ton towing a 34 ft trailer is a scary proposition. Even with a Hensley hitch you would have a hard time controlling it. I had a 35 ft bumper pull at one time with a little over 1000# dry tongue weight and it was all the 2500HD Silverado crew cab (2005) could handle as far as control. 

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Ronjon said:

So what I'm hearing here and the other forum is 5k to 6k dry with a max weight under 8k? Y'all talked me out of the 30+ foot models. 25-30 foot is what I'll look for. Also I'll be getting leaf springs rated for another 660lbs over the OEM, dunno if that helps my case (no more lift block). My tires are also load E (10 ply) with forged 3600lb rated wheels.

 

 

"Legally" it doesn't help.  The ratings of the truck are what they are.  So if for some reason you got scaled and were over (say an accident or something and they wanted weight), and you were over GCWR or over your payload...

  • Like 1
DK91105 Enthusiast

DK91105

Posted
Posted

Do any of these trailers have brakes?  Also your increased tire size really hurts your trailering ability. While expensive, re-gearing your truck would help you a ton if you are dead set on pushing the limits. You would also probably want the TCM tuned at that point which adds additional cost. 

asilverblazer Senior Enthusiast

asilverblazer

Posted
Posted

Have heard no mention of distance and terrain you'll be towing in. 

 

Properly setting up the weight distribution and sway control will go a long ways to making the set up feasible. It is not about the overall weight in a travel trailer, its the size, followed by tongue weight. Tongue weight will end up maxing out the GVWR of the truck first. 

 

Tire size on the truck is probably the biggest down side, followed by the lift.

 

The first thing you will run into towing a travel trailer is the engine RPM's will be high - all the time. MPG's will be low 8-9.

 

Your lift may actually help setting up the weight distribution shank because they are usually too low for a 1/2 ton. Overall the lift is going to be a negative though for stability and aerodynamics.

 

If you are traveling less than 1000 miles, not in severe terrain and no faster than 70mph you could probably make it work. 

 

I was able to manage a 35' (actual box measurement) travel trailer behind my 1/2 ton.

 

Be on the look out for all the "I'm gonna sue you if you crash into me and you're over weight people". 

  • Like 1
Ubiquity Enthusiast

Ubiquity

Posted
Posted

Your mileage may vary:  I am considering at some point in the future of moving twice a year.  For my wee Ubiquity, anything over 4500 lbs and I'll hire someone else to do it.  

  • Like 1
Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So what I've found that still checks my boxes for weight and amenities is the Solaire 2580RBSS. And thoughts? I'm going to have a lightweight island to put in the kitchen.

Screenshot_20241202_212949_Chrome.jpg

hoitzed Enthusiast

hoitzed

Posted
Posted

I've towed a similar size / weight model for the last 4.5 years with this truck.  Get a good WDH and you should be fine.  Load it up, weigh it, and adjust accordingly.  Mine comes in around 970lb on the hitch, and I mainly leave the bed empty.

  • Like 1
Ronjon Enthusiast

Ronjon

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So what I've found that still checks my boxes for weight and amenities is the Solaire 2580RBSS. And thoughts? I'm going to have a lightweight island to put in the kitchen.

 

Not to be annoying but could you put your exact specs for both truck and trailer?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...