Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a 25 Sierra SLT.  Do these still have the sub in the center console with the Bose audio system?  I can't detect noise or vibes in the center leaving me to think it's been cost reduced out or not hooked up.  I had a 16 Sierra with the bose that thumped way better.  I have a 21 Yukon now currently that sounds a lot better with significantly more thump.  

Posted

The standard Bose system is apparently a lot worse than on earlier and pre-refresh models.The Denali and AT4 get a better version I think. Most people buy a subwoofer and put it under the seats. I have one but haven't gotten around to wiring it up yet. Lots of posts about that on this and other forums.

Posted

Well that's disappointing.  

 

The other Bose systems have been always just good enough I didn't bother to upgrade. I found  a few options on other forums to investigate.  I'm not wanting to take up storage space under by back seat with a big sub box.

Posted

Better bose  - UQS - is standard and only available on AT4X and Denali Ultimate (not available on AT4 or 'regular' Denali)

 

On 2025 SLT 1500

UQF is standard

UQA is the bose option

 

image.png.3d8341b19b80a27e974c7b6d1aa8d28b.png

Posted (edited)

I just added an Alpine PXE-C80-88 DSP/Amp.  replaced door and dash speakers, added a JL 10TW3.  The factory sub is there (I am running it off channel 7 on the amp for a front sub). It actually does pretty well when it has power and good crossover points. 

 

24 Silverado with UQA radio. 

Edited by Juicedgsr95
Posted
18 hours ago, dreisenauer said:

Thanks redwngr.  I should have the UQA 7 speaker option.  If a richbass woofer exists, it's not hooked up or very weak.  

Its very weak. The bass on my 20 SLT with Bose system completely blows away the Bose system in my 23 Denali

Posted

This kind of question always leads me down the 'why isn't my next truck a base model' road. 

 

Things that are a must vs. things aftermarket does better, looks...

 

1. Leather - easy to clean.

2. Climate control - handy.

3. Heated steering wheel - stupid, but by far one of my favorite options.

4. Leather wrapped steering wheel - its the one thing you touch every minute you're in the truck.

...not far from base model.

 

I hate to say I'm an apple fanboy but carplay entertainment is clean and simple and works. All I need on my  dash is a well integrated screen to mirror my phone. 

 

The stereo in my current truck isn't my favorite, sound quality, but I can't justify spending the thousands to get it where I want plus the compromises on how the current double-din units look in the dash of my truck.

 

Conveniently, I'm in the process of learning my new Android based head unit, yes, the cheap ones on Amazon.

Reason, one, my current screen would sometimes cut out. I'm fairly certain it was just the display because touch functions would still work along with everything else. You just couldn't see it. Cost for replacement part $150-200. Cost for the Android thing I bought $200 (Great) but it required a $200 Bose adapter to work (Yikes). Its a 10" tablet, and fits the dash better than the 8" with antiquated CD player.

 

Point of all this, maybe building a sound system independent of the truck is the easiest thing, if you can resolve the screen integration in a way you like. 

 

In my case I could now go out of the Android thing to any aftermarket audio devices I wish. A set of amplifiers, speakers, etc. (avoiding the $200 adapter in the process.) The head unit I have has a robust equalizer, some other settings for cross over and sub woofers that aren't helpful with Bose and based off my previous experience with aftermarket higher end units like Kenwood, I think this unit could produce comparable sound quality with enough fiddling. In other words for $200 Kenwood, Pioneer - aren't even close to competing. If their trying to win high end (audiophile) crowd their going to have to figure out how to get past the double -din box they've got themselves in. (Example: Buddy needs a head unit in his Nissan Altima - the display is bad. Nothing from Crutchfield for under $600. We're going to put an Android in his too with a bigger screen.)

 

Posted
12 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

This kind of question always leads me down the 'why isn't my next truck a base model' road. 

 

Things that are a must vs. things aftermarket does better, looks...

 

1. Leather - easy to clean.

2. Climate control - handy.

3. Heated steering wheel - stupid, but by far one of my favorite options.

4. Leather wrapped steering wheel - its the one thing you touch every minute you're in the truck.

...not far from base model.

 

I hate to say I'm an apple fanboy but carplay entertainment is clean and simple and works. All I need on my  dash is a well integrated screen to mirror my phone. 

 

The stereo in my current truck isn't my favorite, sound quality, but I can't justify spending the thousands to get it where I want plus the compromises on how the current double-din units look in the dash of my truck.

 

Conveniently, I'm in the process of learning my new Android based head unit, yes, the cheap ones on Amazon.

Reason, one, my current screen would sometimes cut out. I'm fairly certain it was just the display because touch functions would still work along with everything else. You just couldn't see it. Cost for replacement part $150-200. Cost for the Android thing I bought $200 (Great) but it required a $200 Bose adapter to work (Yikes). Its a 10" tablet, and fits the dash better than the 8" with antiquated CD player.

 

Point of all this, maybe building a sound system independent of the truck is the easiest thing, if you can resolve the screen integration in a way you like. 

 

In my case I could now go out of the Android thing to any aftermarket audio devices I wish. A set of amplifiers, speakers, etc. (avoiding the $200 adapter in the process.) The head unit I have has a robust equalizer, some other settings for cross over and sub woofers that aren't helpful with Bose and based off my previous experience with aftermarket higher end units like Kenwood, I think this unit could produce comparable sound quality with enough fiddling. In other words for $200 Kenwood, Pioneer - aren't even close to competing. If their trying to win high end (audiophile) crowd their going to have to figure out how to get past the double -din box they've got themselves in. (Example: Buddy needs a head unit in his Nissan Altima - the display is bad. Nothing from Crutchfield for under $600. We're going to put an Android in his too with a bigger screen.)

 

 

Are you talking about the vehicle(s) in your signature or are you talking about the a T1? 

 

If a T1, is it the pre or post refresh?

Posted
3 hours ago, redwngr said:

 

Are you talking about the vehicle(s) in your signature or are you talking about the a T1? 

 

If a T1, is it the pre or post refresh?

I'm just talking...

...anything specific would be to my 18.

Posted

Only way for it to sound decent is to open your rear window if you have one. GM really screwed up on the 22 1/2+ Bose systems. Even if you upgrade for the OEM hide away sub the systems still pathetic. Just don't understand how Bose systems from the 90's sound better then ones being produced in 2025.

 

My guess is Bose cut corners during the pandemic on production of their speakers. Somethings just missing for this to be a premium system. I have 2 other gm vehicles produced in 2023 with Bose and the sound delivers so its isolated to GM's trucks.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Update on this one - upon making fun of the pathetic Bose system at a dealer, a friendly parts guy told me he had the GM 8" Kicker sub and let me listen to it.  I thought it was good enough and had some points on my card plus 20% off so I did it.  Initially I thought it was ok after install but still kind of weak and it started to get a little better after breaking in a bit.  I decided to take the amp to see if it was replaceable.  There was a little rubber plug on the back and when removed revealed 6 DIP switches.  I searched online and found 3 of them were gain but only 1 of 3 was "on".  I flipped the 2nd one "on" and wow did that wake it up.  Now it's much better than I expected.

 

I might think about replacing door speakers now.  Or getting the inputs from the Bose sub input instead of a side speaker like it they install it.  

Posted

I haven't experienced the pre-refresh BOSE radios but I had a loaner 2025 Silverado with the turdomax engine and base 6 speaker radio and wow the factory low end model is such a piece of crap compared to my 2023 with the mid level bose radio. The front door speakers are more like woofer and I can't say I hear anything for bass from the woofer in the center console unless it's midbass like higher notes around 80Hz or above.

 

I'm honestly happy with my setup. I would consider an additional amp for the rear doors but it's good enough for my liking and I used to have a ridiculous sound system in my old vehicles. I transplanted the rear door speakers with Rockford Fosgate T1 6.75" speakers without the tweeter and it didn't really change the sound.

 

I wanted to play with moving the front 2 ohm 6x9 BOSE speakers to the rear door and see if the amplifier can handle 2 ohm loads on all 4 channels but never did it when I had the doors apart. The ohm load difference in my opinion is why the front doors are so heavy with bass because they are getting double the power than the rear doors. You can also test this by putting your fader all the way to the rear and it shuts off the front speakers completely but if you move the fader to the front just 1 click it will make the front doors get heavy with bass.

 

I really wish they didn't get 2 ohm speakers in the front door and ran standard 4 ohm speakers all around because then I could put my existing speakers in the front doors and not have a huge loss of volume output on the radio. I can buy new 2 ohm speakers in the aftermarket but they are not that common and cost a ton of money compared to the 4 ohm versions on the market. Plus I could also modify the door and run a pair of 4 ohm speakers in parallel to get a 2 ohm load but it's not worth the hassle for me at this time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...