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2019-2021's w/6.2L not involved in the recall

Blade8971
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Blade8971 Enthusiast

Blade8971

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Bikerjon said:

Just an idea. Keep the truck and disable DFM with Range Technologies module. Its a roll of the dice but its only about $300.00. I have used them on 3 T1s including my 2025 w/6.2L.

 

Yes, that's the option I just decided to go with...keep the truck.  I just received the DFM Disabler earlier today.  Now I'll need to figure out the oil to use for future oil changes as I just had an oil change done by my dealer (using 0W20) when the recall was announced.

Edited by Blade8971
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Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

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Posted
On 5/7/2025 at 1:10 PM, taze said:

Would the L8P fit as a replacement for a boogered L87? 

Yes, same physical dimensions.  You would need to get the PCM tuned.

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taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Gangly said:

Yes, same physical dimensions.  You would need to get the PCM tuned.

Seems like that could be a fun way to go. They aren't overly expensive compared to a new L87.  I read on an L86 -> L8T swap you need to replace the L8T crank position sensor with one from an L86. Maybe the same here.

johnnyquick Enthusiast

johnnyquick

Posted
Posted

Texas Speed delete kit and camshaft, remote tune with ECM from HP Tuners

OR try the pulsar etc and shut the crap off and use 5-30 oil and hope for the best.

GM is screwing the owners of these vehicles as we all know they have failure and consumption issues.

  • 2 months later...
1454 Enthusiast

1454

Posted
Posted
On 5/5/2025 at 10:13 PM, Blade8971 said:

As a result of the recall issued by GM on the 6.2 in which 2019's thru to early 2021's that were not involved, I'm curious if the options stated below are being considered by these particular group of owners which I'm a part of as I have a 2020.

 

  1. Keep the truck and implement modifications such as a DFM disable/delete and using a different viscosity of oil.
  2. Trade in the truck for a new one equipped with a different engine such as the 3.0L or 5.3L, or go for a HD version.
  3. Trade in the truck for a new one from another manufacturer.

 

 

I'm personally leaning toward option one with a twist. I have had 2 sets of lifter failures in 50k miles, it idles rough now. It also runs rough (even compared to the last loaner I had). I have also had an objective 3rd party that has noticed how it runs now, so it's not just me. At this point, instead of directly giving GM more money, I have the intention of just getting a new L87 from Texas speed or similar that has been deleted and going that route. Honestly, GM "extended" my warranty, but it is irrelevant since the techs at multiple dealers won't bother to try and diagnose something that doesn't have an active code. Heck, even with a code, they claimed it was "fine" at one of the dealers. soooo.... They are glorified parts changers anymore. 3 isn't a good option because I don't trust Chrysler quality. Ford leads in recalls now. Toyota is replacing all the motors (at least they are well enough ran to actually acknowledge the issue, unlike GM that just plays the "let's pay the lawyers to handle it", game). So what brand is there to go to if you want something actually reliable? If I were considering another brand, it would probably be Toyota, but yeah. See the above comment. 

 

The only other option I have considered is trading for a 3.0 and doing a delete. If they didn't come with def, I would have going that route to start. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted

Why trade your truck in if it's not within the build date range where the defective wrist pin parts were used? Am I missing something or is this because you don't trust the posted build date range?

AmericanPie Enthusiast

AmericanPie

Posted
Posted
On 5/5/2025 at 9:13 PM, Blade8971 said:

As a result of the recall issued by GM on the 6.2 in which 2019's thru to early 2021's that were not involved, I'm curious if the options stated below are being considered by these particular group of owners which I'm a part of as I have a 2020.

 

  1. Keep the truck and implement modifications such as a DFM disable/delete and using a different viscosity of oil.
  2. Trade in the truck for a new one equipped with a different engine such as the 3.0L or 5.3L, or go for a HD version.
  3. Trade in the truck for a new one from another manufacturer.

 

I've worked as a tradesman in the automotive industry since 1968. I've drag race since then also.  Before the advent of full synthetics and OEM requirements to use zero or 5W grade oil, we would NEVER consider using such low viscosity engine oils.  Yes I know we're talking about full synthetic vs conventional oil, but 10W-30 was the minimum viscosity oil used in very cold winter months.

 

If your truck is still covered by GM warranty, deending on your engine, you must use the required 0W-20 or 5W-20 Dexos (yeah the watery stuff). My 2020 Sierra 2500 HD L8T gas is still covered, following a warranty engine replacement, so I must continue to use Dexos 5W-20, however I'm a firm believer in hedging my bets, so I add one quart of full synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer to each oil change.  It adds to viscosity and has long strand molecules, which helps to keep the oil on the bearing surfaces (providing cold start up and high stress/high temp protection). You can bet, as soon as warranty period is over, it's getting nothing thinner than full synthetic 10W-40 (winter) and possibly 15W-40 full synthetic Rottella (diesel) in warm months, plus the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer every oil change. 

 

BTW,  I've used Lucas conventional oil stabilizer as an additive to 20W-50 racing oil in my 1200 hp supercharged engines for decades with outstanding success. 

 

If it weren't for GM executives striving to meet unrealistic fuel consumption requirements,  you wouldn't be required to run such piss thin oil, and engines wouldn't be destroyed as often. 

 

 

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
On 8/17/2025 at 9:08 AM, AmericanPie said:

I've worked as a tradesman in the automotive industry since 1968. I've drag race since then also.  Before the advent of full synthetics and OEM requirements to use zero or 5W grade oil, we would NEVER consider using such low viscosity engine oils.  Yes I know we're talking about full synthetic vs conventional oil, but 10W-30 was the minimum viscosity oil used in very cold winter months.

 

If your truck is still covered by GM warranty, deending on your engine, you must use the required 0W-20 or 5W-20 Dexos (yeah the watery stuff). My 2020 Sierra 2500 HD L8T gas is still covered, following a warranty engine replacement, so I must continue to use Dexos 5W-20, however I'm a firm believer in hedging my bets, so I add one quart of full synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer to each oil change.  It adds to viscosity and has long strand molecules, which helps to keep the oil on the bearing surfaces (providing cold start up and high stress/high temp protection). You can bet, as soon as warranty period is over, it's getting nothing thinner than full synthetic 10W-40 (winter) and possibly 15W-40 full synthetic Rottella (diesel) in warm months, plus the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer every oil change. 

 

BTW,  I've used Lucas conventional oil stabilizer as an additive to 20W-50 racing oil in my 1200 hp supercharged engines for decades with outstanding success. 

 

If it weren't for GM executives striving to meet unrealistic fuel consumption requirements,  you wouldn't be required to run such piss thin oil, and engines wouldn't be destroyed as often. 

 

 

The oil had nothing to do with this newer bearing issue, using Mexican slave labor is the reason and is why GM made up the oil excuse to cover for them trying to cut cost here. Here is a picture of a never used 6.2 crank shaft journal. Thicker oil is not going to help this....

 

https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxOoK_u2eUoqt7OR57ycVxpJ5svANfOCQa

 

1752079328850.png

 

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Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted

I'm keeping it.  Not changing anything.  Going to maintain it.  If it breaks, I'll fix it.  It's what I do.  I love my truck, and I've invested/wasted a lot of money on it with mods, and I plan on enjoying them as long as I can.  And, the older it gets the less I car about body damage.  If shtf and I need to bug out in a location where body damage happens, I'd rather do it in an older paid off vehicle. 

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  • 2 months later...
SIXFOUR Enthusiast

SIXFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/20/2025 at 2:48 PM, BIGDOGx said:

The oil had nothing to do with this newer bearing issue, using Mexican slave labor is the reason and is why GM made up the oil excuse to cover for them trying to cut cost here. Here is a picture of a never used 6.2 crank shaft journal. Thicker oil is not going to help this....

 

https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxOoK_u2eUoqt7OR57ycVxpJ5svANfOCQa

 

1752079328850.png

 

I agree. I live in Texas and thousands of trucks losded on rail cars pass through here everyday coming from Mexico. 

I looked at many CPO (certified pre-owned) trucks and almost 80% were built or assembled in Mexico.  I finally located a truck that I wanted. It had 60k miles. It is a '20 Denali, so outside of the recall.  It has the 6.2L DFM and Auotstop and a 10spd. I tuned out both, first with a Pulsar LT,  then with a DiabloSport trinity and a LEW custom tune. I have had no problems at all, from motor or trans. ..But. this truck was built  and assembled completely in the USA. at the Roanoke plant.

It makes a difference.  Quality, built with American hands. Engine and transmission, assembled in the United States of America. 

Edited by SIXFOUR
Punctuation and spelling

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