Jump to content

2019-2021's w/6.2L not involved in the recall

Blade8971
 Share

Recommended Posts

Blade8971 Enthusiast

Blade8971

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Bikerjon said:

Just an idea. Keep the truck and disable DFM with Range Technologies module. Its a roll of the dice but its only about $300.00. I have used them on 3 T1s including my 2025 w/6.2L.

 

Yes, that's the option I just decided to go with...keep the truck.  I just received the DFM Disabler earlier today.  Now I'll need to figure out the oil to use for future oil changes as I just had an oil change done by my dealer (using 0W20) when the recall was announced.

Edited by Blade8971
  • Like 1
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 5/7/2025 at 1:10 PM, taze said:

Would the L8P fit as a replacement for a boogered L87? 

Yes, same physical dimensions.  You would need to get the PCM tuned.

  • Like 1
taze Enthusiast

taze

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Gangly said:

Yes, same physical dimensions.  You would need to get the PCM tuned.

Seems like that could be a fun way to go. They aren't overly expensive compared to a new L87.  I read on an L86 -> L8T swap you need to replace the L8T crank position sensor with one from an L86. Maybe the same here.

johnnyquick Enthusiast

johnnyquick

Posted
Posted

Texas Speed delete kit and camshaft, remote tune with ECM from HP Tuners

OR try the pulsar etc and shut the crap off and use 5-30 oil and hope for the best.

GM is screwing the owners of these vehicles as we all know they have failure and consumption issues.

  • 2 months later...
1454 Enthusiast

1454

Posted
Posted
On 5/5/2025 at 10:13 PM, Blade8971 said:

As a result of the recall issued by GM on the 6.2 in which 2019's thru to early 2021's that were not involved, I'm curious if the options stated below are being considered by these particular group of owners which I'm a part of as I have a 2020.

 

  1. Keep the truck and implement modifications such as a DFM disable/delete and using a different viscosity of oil.
  2. Trade in the truck for a new one equipped with a different engine such as the 3.0L or 5.3L, or go for a HD version.
  3. Trade in the truck for a new one from another manufacturer.

 

 

I'm personally leaning toward option one with a twist. I have had 2 sets of lifter failures in 50k miles, it idles rough now. It also runs rough (even compared to the last loaner I had). I have also had an objective 3rd party that has noticed how it runs now, so it's not just me. At this point, instead of directly giving GM more money, I have the intention of just getting a new L87 from Texas speed or similar that has been deleted and going that route. Honestly, GM "extended" my warranty, but it is irrelevant since the techs at multiple dealers won't bother to try and diagnose something that doesn't have an active code. Heck, even with a code, they claimed it was "fine" at one of the dealers. soooo.... They are glorified parts changers anymore. 3 isn't a good option because I don't trust Chrysler quality. Ford leads in recalls now. Toyota is replacing all the motors (at least they are well enough ran to actually acknowledge the issue, unlike GM that just plays the "let's pay the lawyers to handle it", game). So what brand is there to go to if you want something actually reliable? If I were considering another brand, it would probably be Toyota, but yeah. See the above comment. 

 

The only other option I have considered is trading for a 3.0 and doing a delete. If they didn't come with def, I would have going that route to start. 

  • Sad 1
  • 3 weeks later...
reeseb Enthusiast

reeseb

Posted
Posted

Why trade your truck in if it's not within the build date range where the defective wrist pin parts were used? Am I missing something or is this because you don't trust the posted build date range?

AmericanPie Enthusiast

AmericanPie

Posted
Posted
On 5/5/2025 at 9:13 PM, Blade8971 said:

As a result of the recall issued by GM on the 6.2 in which 2019's thru to early 2021's that were not involved, I'm curious if the options stated below are being considered by these particular group of owners which I'm a part of as I have a 2020.

 

  1. Keep the truck and implement modifications such as a DFM disable/delete and using a different viscosity of oil.
  2. Trade in the truck for a new one equipped with a different engine such as the 3.0L or 5.3L, or go for a HD version.
  3. Trade in the truck for a new one from another manufacturer.

 

I've worked as a tradesman in the automotive industry since 1968. I've drag race since then also.  Before the advent of full synthetics and OEM requirements to use zero or 5W grade oil, we would NEVER consider using such low viscosity engine oils.  Yes I know we're talking about full synthetic vs conventional oil, but 10W-30 was the minimum viscosity oil used in very cold winter months.

 

If your truck is still covered by GM warranty, deending on your engine, you must use the required 0W-20 or 5W-20 Dexos (yeah the watery stuff). My 2020 Sierra 2500 HD L8T gas is still covered, following a warranty engine replacement, so I must continue to use Dexos 5W-20, however I'm a firm believer in hedging my bets, so I add one quart of full synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer to each oil change.  It adds to viscosity and has long strand molecules, which helps to keep the oil on the bearing surfaces (providing cold start up and high stress/high temp protection). You can bet, as soon as warranty period is over, it's getting nothing thinner than full synthetic 10W-40 (winter) and possibly 15W-40 full synthetic Rottella (diesel) in warm months, plus the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer every oil change. 

 

BTW,  I've used Lucas conventional oil stabilizer as an additive to 20W-50 racing oil in my 1200 hp supercharged engines for decades with outstanding success. 

 

If it weren't for GM executives striving to meet unrealistic fuel consumption requirements,  you wouldn't be required to run such piss thin oil, and engines wouldn't be destroyed as often. 

 

 

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
On 8/17/2025 at 9:08 AM, AmericanPie said:

I've worked as a tradesman in the automotive industry since 1968. I've drag race since then also.  Before the advent of full synthetics and OEM requirements to use zero or 5W grade oil, we would NEVER consider using such low viscosity engine oils.  Yes I know we're talking about full synthetic vs conventional oil, but 10W-30 was the minimum viscosity oil used in very cold winter months.

 

If your truck is still covered by GM warranty, deending on your engine, you must use the required 0W-20 or 5W-20 Dexos (yeah the watery stuff). My 2020 Sierra 2500 HD L8T gas is still covered, following a warranty engine replacement, so I must continue to use Dexos 5W-20, however I'm a firm believer in hedging my bets, so I add one quart of full synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer to each oil change.  It adds to viscosity and has long strand molecules, which helps to keep the oil on the bearing surfaces (providing cold start up and high stress/high temp protection). You can bet, as soon as warranty period is over, it's getting nothing thinner than full synthetic 10W-40 (winter) and possibly 15W-40 full synthetic Rottella (diesel) in warm months, plus the Lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer every oil change. 

 

BTW,  I've used Lucas conventional oil stabilizer as an additive to 20W-50 racing oil in my 1200 hp supercharged engines for decades with outstanding success. 

 

If it weren't for GM executives striving to meet unrealistic fuel consumption requirements,  you wouldn't be required to run such piss thin oil, and engines wouldn't be destroyed as often. 

 

 

The oil had nothing to do with this newer bearing issue, using Mexican slave labor is the reason and is why GM made up the oil excuse to cover for them trying to cut cost here. Here is a picture of a never used 6.2 crank shaft journal. Thicker oil is not going to help this....

 

https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxOoK_u2eUoqt7OR57ycVxpJ5svANfOCQa

 

1752079328850.png

 

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Transient Senior Enthusiast

Transient

Posted
Posted

I'm keeping it.  Not changing anything.  Going to maintain it.  If it breaks, I'll fix it.  It's what I do.  I love my truck, and I've invested/wasted a lot of money on it with mods, and I plan on enjoying them as long as I can.  And, the older it gets the less I car about body damage.  If shtf and I need to bug out in a location where body damage happens, I'd rather do it in an older paid off vehicle. 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
  • 2 months later...
SIXFOUR Enthusiast

SIXFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/20/2025 at 2:48 PM, BIGDOGx said:

The oil had nothing to do with this newer bearing issue, using Mexican slave labor is the reason and is why GM made up the oil excuse to cover for them trying to cut cost here. Here is a picture of a never used 6.2 crank shaft journal. Thicker oil is not going to help this....

 

https://www.youtube.com/post/UgkxOoK_u2eUoqt7OR57ycVxpJ5svANfOCQa

 

1752079328850.png

 

I agree. I live in Texas and thousands of trucks losded on rail cars pass through here everyday coming from Mexico. 

I looked at many CPO (certified pre-owned) trucks and almost 80% were built or assembled in Mexico.  I finally located a truck that I wanted. It had 60k miles. It is a '20 Denali, so outside of the recall.  It has the 6.2L DFM and Auotstop and a 10spd. I tuned out both, first with a Pulsar LT,  then with a DiabloSport trinity and a LEW custom tune. I have had no problems at all, from motor or trans. ..But. this truck was built  and assembled completely in the USA. at the Roanoke plant.

It makes a difference.  Quality, built with American hands. Engine and transmission, assembled in the United States of America. 

Edited by SIXFOUR
Punctuation and spelling

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...