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Posted

I have been experiencing uneven tire wear on my 2017 Silverado. The truck has stock size tires and rims (P265/65R18 T). All suspension is stock and in acceptable shape with the exception of a 2” Rough Country level.

 

I have had the alignment checked multiple times over the course of the level installation (which was done by a mechanic) to verify accuracy. Tires were rotated religiously over the course of the 2 sets and the sway bars are in tact. Tire pressure kept to spec as well.

 

This picture, the front passenger, is from today, on a tire that was rotated into place in early April. It seems to wear more aggressively on the passenger tire versus the drivers side tire. Could this be a negative side effect of the level?

IMG_2656.jpeg

Posted

Alignment is off.  Camber or toe or a combination of both. 

 

Do you have the measurement printout from the alignment you could post?  

  • Like 2
Posted

It's tough to find a shop that knows the difference between "In Spec" and "On Spec" and willing to go the distance to make it right. I see lots of alignment reports that are in spec and awful. I agree with newdude, let's have a look at your last report. Also, how long do you go between rotations and how many of your tires look like this? 

  • Like 1
Posted

This is the 2nd worst tire, the one that started wearing first is over on the drivers side. I try to have my tires rotated every 5,000 or so miles. My mechanic (separate from the tire shop that I last visited) did recommend not moving them around once or twice in the last year which I blindly trusted.

 

I did not receive a print out of the report the last time I was at the shop, which I understand to probably be a rookie move. Are alignment reports something that is kept on file that I may be able to call the shop and request? I did have to visit them a time or two after the initial alignment to correct the truck from pulling to the right. According to the notes that I keep in addition to the receipt, the shop "adjusted Passenger Front Caster 0.4 in favor of compensating for right pull". This was after swapping the worst tire out of the front passenger to the drivers side to help with pull.

 

 

I don't recall having this issue until after the level was put on:

 

Fall 21' - First full set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S's put on

Late Summer '22 - 2" Level Installed

Summer '23 - Wear in front passenger noted along with tac in sidewall. This tire along with the 2nd worst replaced

Late '23 - Remaining original tires replaced with new

  • Like 1
Posted

i agree with grumpy, with alignment machines being computerized just about anyone can do an alignment, but can they do it right. as your front suspension moves up and down the tire actually toes in and out and GM tries to find the happy medium to keep the tire wear close to normal. you mention that it is worse after the front was leveled and that is because you have pushed the tie rod down to a different angle and now when the suspension compresses it toe the tire out further than it did from factory. looking at the picture you have inner wear and cupping which is definately a toe out problem. now try and explain that to the alignment guy. i am no expert but geometry is geometry

  • Like 2
Posted
46 minutes ago, 2017chevy said:

This is the 2nd worst tire, the one that started wearing first is over on the drivers side. I try to have my tires rotated every 5,000 or so miles. My mechanic (separate from the tire shop that I last visited) did recommend not moving them around once or twice in the last year which I blindly trusted.

 

I did not receive a print out of the report the last time I was at the shop, which I understand to probably be a rookie move. Are alignment reports something that is kept on file that I may be able to call the shop and request? I did have to visit them a time or two after the initial alignment to correct the truck from pulling to the right. According to the notes that I keep in addition to the receipt, the shop "adjusted Passenger Front Caster 0.4 in favor of compensating for right pull". This was after swapping the worst tire out of the front passenger to the drivers side to help with pull.

 

 

I don't recall having this issue until after the level was put on:

 

Fall 21' - First full set of Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S's put on

Late Summer '22 - 2" Level Installed

Summer '23 - Wear in front passenger noted along with tac in sidewall. This tire along with the 2nd worst replaced

Late '23 - Remaining original tires replaced with new

 

 

If they are using a good machine, it should have a database with alignment reports stored in it.  That is, if they saved it at the end of the alignment.  

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Camber and toe are the largest wear factor for tires, changing higth, either lowering or raising changes both of those, you need 0 degree camber and 1/16 inch toe for best tire wear, so get a print out of the spec's from the shop doing the alignment. Caster can play a small part in tire wear but not has much but does effect "Toe out in turns".

Posted (edited)
The tire shop I visited for my last alignment was helpful in retrieving the report which I have attached.
 
I was chatting about it today with my mechanic during a routine maintenance visit - he speculated if this particular truck is right on the edge of needing longer control arms or possibly stepping down to a 1.5" level to be safe. Any thoughts? Are others able to run 2" levels with other stock components?

IMG_2690.jpeg

Edited by 2017chevy
Added "today" for context
Posted
7 minutes ago, 2017chevy said:
The tire shop I visited for my last alignment was helpful in retrieving the report which I have attached.
 
I was chatting about it today with my mechanic during a routine maintenance visit - he speculated if this particular truck is right on the edge of needing longer control arms or possibly stepping down to a 1.5" level to be safe. Any thoughts? Are others able to run 2" levels with other stock components?

IMG_2690.jpeg

 

 

I see hair too much negative camber which IMO, the level is potentially causing.  GM spec chart calls for −0.1° but does allow for plus or minus 0.8 degrees of camber.  I'd wonder if they can get that closer to zero with the stock arms.  

 

If they can', couple things.  Reduce the level is an option.  Option two is aftermarket upper arms that have better ball joint angle and likely allow it to align better.

 

IMO, arms would be my first move but with safety being the priority driver.  The stock stamped arms have a poor ball joint design and can't really handle a 2in or larger level.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I believe that is what they are discussing attempting for when I bring it in to have them adjust it. 
 

I’ll probably step down to a 1.5” level opposed to going with new arms and everything for the time being if it comes to that

Posted
9 hours ago, 2017chevy said:
The tire shop I visited for my last alignment was helpful in retrieving the report which I have attached.
 
I was chatting about it today with my mechanic during a routine maintenance visit - he speculated if this particular truck is right on the edge of needing longer control arms or possibly stepping down to a 1.5" level to be safe. Any thoughts? Are others able to run 2" levels with other stock components?

IMG_2690.jpeg

I agree with @newdude on the camber. -.02 max, -0.1 better, equal REQUIRED. Are extended range camber bolts in play? If not then get some. 

That toe thing they have going on is indefensible. +.02 and EVEN. That will tear up tires. 

Thrust is pretty darn good. 

If you tow camber is okay. If you don't then loose some, a full degree, if ride and turn in is important to you. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

IMO,  cheap tires might be the problem?   Once they start a wear pattern, alignment won't correct the wear pattern.  

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Z45 said:

IMO,  cheap tires might be the problem?   Once they start a wear pattern, alignment won't correct the wear pattern.  

 

True. Alignment will not 'repair' a set of tires that have taken an uneven wear pattern. Tire cost being an indicator of quality is not a connection one can make clearly. If you meant tire made cheaply then I'd offer this. Even the worst of the worst that can be sold can be made to wear evenly. They just can't do it for long before you run out of thread. 

 

To the OP. Get the alignment right first then get new tires. 

Posted

To make things cheaper they have to cut corners. Maybe its in the materials used, the manufacturing process, the quality control,  etc.    Beware of tires sales, you might be buying new old old stock?    

 

Posted

It's my understanding, once a tire starts a wear pattern it stays that way no matter what, unless you true the tire.  

 

Just curious, how old are the shocks?

  • Like 1

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