Jump to content

Evap Vent Valve Location

nharrel

By nharrel
in Ask A GM Technician

 Share

Recommended Posts

nharrel Enthusiast

nharrel

Posted
Posted

i have a 2006 sirra 1500 slt shortbed and i cant find the Evap Vent Valve, the chilton manual is no help either. does anyone have any pictures on where it is at, or can give me some detailed instructions on were it is at. thanks

  • Replies 133
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

odayflor
odayflor

***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****   Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this

IndyDingo
IndyDingo

Ian -   I have the '06 Chevy version of your truck (crew cab Z71) - but I can't seem to locate the canister. I've looked at the pics that have been posted here - crawled under the truck yesterday

evallade
evallade

I just put the 214-2149 on my 07 Sierra (new body). It also has 40k on it. $31 all in. I bought 3' of 5/8 heater hose and had 18" left over. Cleared the code with a code reader, and so far it has

Posted Images

minibike132 Senior Enthusiast

minibike132

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's in between the cab and the bed on the bed side all the way at the bottom left (driver side)just above the frame rail. Search is your friend there are pictures here somewhere. Welcome to the site.

Edited by sparkstech
matthuber1 Enthusiast

matthuber1

Posted
Posted

I replaced mine yesterday... and it was not where alldata or chiltons said it was... Mine was BEHIND the fuel tank. Its a cylindrical plastic part that has a 5/8" plastic hose connected to it. You will need 5/8 heater hose and hose clamps to replace the valve.

 

My 2005 had a TSB that added a remote vent location.

  • 1 month later...
JA_Silverado_04 Enthusiast

JA_Silverado_04

Posted
Posted

It seems that for different years and truck configurations the location is different. My '04 Reg Cab Long Bed has it located where SparksTech described - between the Cab and Bed above and outboard from the gastank. I can actually see mine if I look down between the cab and the bed out toward the drivers side. I think its easier to get at if its behind the gas tank (from looking anyways).

 

If you have the replacement part it might not look exactly the same - since they are using and upgraded part now.

Phillip Enthusiast

Phillip

Posted
Posted (edited)

Got to replaced the evap vent value in 2005 Silverado 2 door 4x4. how hard is to do (may do it myself)? Also got a price at a dealership on the part $160.00 and $40.00 for labour (Canadian) is this a good price?

 

 

Thanks

Edited by GM4X4V8
  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...
ACAMK067 New Member

ACAMK067

Posted
Posted
Got the part for 160.00 and installed myself. fixed problem.

 

 

my son and husband are both pretty good at doing mechanical stuff. Son totally rebuilt a classic and works on jeeps all the time. Is replacing the Evap Vent Solenoid very difficult-between 1-10, 10 begin extrememly Five star Tech hard, what would you say?

Yotaman Enthusiast

Yotaman

Posted
Posted

I just replaced the one in my 06 GMC CC. I had code PO449. I bought the new designed solenoid vent valve from GM Partsdirect for 94.00 shipped. I also had to buy 4 hose clamps and 8 feet of 5/8" heater hose to relocate the inlet filter. Do a search on the site for Evap vent valve and you will learn alot about this issue.

 

Good Luck

Yotaman

  • 1 month later...
odayflor Enthusiast

odayflor

Posted
Posted

***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****

 

Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this part(actually $150.00 at the dealer). The following part numbers associated with this part have been gm#19207763,19152349, and AC DELCO #'s 214-2082 costing over $100.00 for the modified part. This is for the modified part, with the relocation of the filterbox, and the added hose that seperates the two. No one at Gm will tell you this, but this same part, that was origionally on your silverado, is also used in the 2006 Suburban. It will be an identical replacement for what is ON YOUR TRUCK, and the cost is $24.04 AT THE DEALER. I know this because I own a 2006 silverado, and a 2006 suburban. Looked at the suburban when the part went bad on the silverado(from overfilling the tank)and bingo, same part. Ask a parts person at GM, and they will tell you otherwise, but they are lying to you. Bought the suburban part today part # 25932571 (GM #) and everything is identical, right down to the numbers stamped on the part itself. Took the part off my silverado, put the replacement on (which gm told me is not the right part), cleared the codes, and bingo no more light after 3 consecutive starts...... Why, is it that GM feels we need to pay the price for something they did wrong???? And moreso, lie to us, telling us the $150.00 part is our only choice to fix the problem. My truck went 40K miles with the origional part, and probably only went bad because of my own stupidity in overfilling the tank, whay would I not just want to spend $24.00 to put on the same part, that will probably go the rest of the life of the truck with no tank overfills???? I say CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN SCAMMED INTO PAYING THE RIDICULOUS PRICE that GM is trying to suck out of us.....Please pass this on to the world, and every forum you can...Get the word out....Let the parts people at GM know we are on to their BS, and they can't take advantage of us like they have.....

  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
voorheisb Enthusiast

voorheisb

Posted
Posted
***IMPORTANT INFORMATION YOU MUST READ*****

 

Ok everyone, listen up....If you have a 04 and newer silverado, with a failed evap vent solenoid, you have to read this info. Do not pay $100+ for this part(actually $150.00 at the dealer). The following part numbers associated with this part have been gm#19207763,19152349, and AC DELCO #'s 214-2082 costing over $100.00 for the modified part. This is for the modified part, with the relocation of the filterbox, and the added hose that seperates the two. No one at Gm will tell you this, but this same part, that was origionally on your silverado, is also used in the 2006 Suburban. It will be an identical replacement for what is ON YOUR TRUCK, and the cost is $24.04 AT THE DEALER. I know this because I own a 2006 silverado, and a 2006 suburban. Looked at the suburban when the part went bad on the silverado(from overfilling the tank)and bingo, same part. Ask a parts person at GM, and they will tell you otherwise, but they are lying to you. Bought the suburban part today part # 25932571 (GM #) and everything is identical, right down to the numbers stamped on the part itself. Took the part off my silverado, put the replacement on (which gm told me is not the right part), cleared the codes, and bingo no more light after 3 consecutive starts...... Why, is it that GM feels we need to pay the price for something they did wrong???? And moreso, lie to us, telling us the $150.00 part is our only choice to fix the problem. My truck went 40K miles with the origional part, and probably only went bad because of my own stupidity in overfilling the tank, whay would I not just want to spend $24.00 to put on the same part, that will probably go the rest of the life of the truck with no tank overfills???? I say CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT FOR EVERYONE THAT HAS BEEN SCAMMED INTO PAYING THE RIDICULOUS PRICE that GM is trying to suck out of us.....Please pass this on to the world, and every forum you can...Get the word out....Let the parts people at GM know we are on to their BS, and they can't take advantage of us like they have.....

 

Glad to see that someone may have already found a solution to this problem. I have a 2003 Silverado. I too am guilty of "topping-off". I'm getting both PO449 and PO455 codes. How do I ensure I'm getting the right part? I'd obviously like to get the $24 version since the dealer just told me it's $80 to scan it and then depending on the issue up to $500 to fix it. Please let me know if you need further information. The difference here is that you have a 2006 and I have a 2003. My GM part number is: 19152345. The AC Delco one you mention doesn't list this part number. I just need to figure out what the Suburban version of mine is. Thanks in advance, Brian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...