Jump to content

Torque Wrench Trick


Recommended Posts

Posted

So, I was rotating my tires the other day when this idea hit me. Obviously you can get more even torque on the lug nuts if there is no weight on the tires when putting the final torque on. I previously had lowered the truck just low enough to keep the wheels from turning when torquing nuts. This past time I used a little section of landscaping timber to allow me to keep the wheels off the ground yet keep them from turning when putting on final 140 torque. (You know, just wedged it into the gap between the wheel and ground to keep from turning). So very simple. Maybe everyone else has been doing this for a while, but I was very proud of myself.

Posted

Good mod :thumbs: Don't forget to add it to the garage!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

:D

Posted
I used split cord wood. Started out by chucking the wheels, then using them as a wedge to keep tires from spinning. Worked well.

 

Yeah, that's how I came into it. From wheel chock to the "aha" moment.

Posted

I do the lowering to the ground thing. Has always worked fine for me. But I've never used a torque wrench either. Just turn it til it's 'nice and tight.' Haven't had a wheel fall off yet. :D

 

I had some dipshit put wheels on with an impact once. Stripped out the tire iron trying to get it off on the side of the road . . . :)

Posted
I had some dipshit put wheels on with an impact once. Stripped out the tire iron trying to get it off on the side of the road . . . :)

Not only that, they can warp a rotor or crack a wheel.

 

I had them torque my nut covers :D with a inpact once. I almost went to jail that day.

Posted
I had some dipshit put wheels on with an impact once. Stripped out the tire iron trying to get it off on the side of the road . . . :D

Not only that, they can warp a rotor or crack a wheel.

 

I had them torque my nut covers :rollin: with a inpact once. I almost went to jail that day.

 

 

 

:rollin: There's no excuse for that.

 

:)

Posted
I had some dipshit put wheels on with an impact once. Stripped out the tire iron trying to get it off on the side of the road . . . :rollin:

Not only that, they can warp a rotor or crack a wheel.

 

I had them torque my nut covers :hitit: with a inpact once. I almost went to jail that day.

 

 

 

:rollin: There's no excuse for that.

 

:D

 

What bringing it to the local tire shop instead of doing it myself? :)

Posted

I'm not seeing how having the tire off the ground allows you to put more torque on the lug nuts. If you're using a torque wrench, wouldn't the torque be the same either way?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...