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I have finally seen the dumbest thing so far. So I am in a coffee shop and this girl asks for the person to not touch her cup with her hands and tries to hand her a pair of tongs to do it with. The person said no. The girl started yelling saying the person is the reason people are dying with covid. Then the girl pulls her mask down and takes her gloves off to get on the phone to tell someone what was happening and keeps it down yelling while walking out. I noticed the stickers on her car, coexist, meat eaters are killers, women can save the world, and etc. Then it all became clear. Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

I have a 20 TB with the 6.2 for a year now. Test drove an LTZ with the 3.0 just before thanksgiving as I just wanted to test drive the 3.0. Super impressed. Not as quick as my 6.2 but still had plenty of power and you can tell that all the torque is available at 1500 RPM. I thought the noise level was acceptable and comparable, if not quieter, to my truck (I do have duratracs). while not a long test drive I did average 24.8 MPG over 16.4 miles. mix of country road (45 mph), state road (55 mph) and some in town driving. I did go over the speed limit some and did a few hard accelerations. Truck had 192 miles on it so not broke in. No tonneau cover either. Was I impressed? I ordered a AT4 with the 3.0L 2 days later with the exact options that I want/need.

Update. The factory missed Over a foot of sealant in the rear window. Waiting on a new window. Dealer decided to just replace the entire window and have a glass guy do it. I’ll give credit to the service department for doing this.

I'm going to say no. Those cars are 6.2's and he has a 5.3, so there is a big difference right there. The PCM calibration wouldn't be enough either, the TCM calibration is built around the extra power of the supercharged engine so you'd want to tune for that. Also none of the GEN V DI supercharged cars ran the 6 speed auto, they are all 8 speed and 10 speeds so you couldn't just flash a tune into the computer of a 6 speed vehicle. I wouldn't even trust it if you had a 6.2/A8 truck and wanted to flash in a DI CST-V file. Too much is different between the vehicles. Weight, drivetrain, axles, different pedals and driver demand needs between a car and truck. I'm sure the list goes on. Easier to just take the pieces you need and custom make the tune.

The guy want to have a piece of mind. I mean oil change is like $50 +/- if it doesn't actually help, I am sure it doesn't hurt.

They quit selling these in 2018. I have the last one[emoji24] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Just to update I took a gamble and bought a 22970855 kit and had it installed by the dealer. Works fine.

I installed the WAMS wireless android/car play radio on my truck today. It only took me 20 minutes but I am pretty good with connectors. The radio also comes with SD card for navigation. I plugged radio in, put my email in for onstar and everything was ready to go. I gained wireless car play and android auto. I now have factory navigation now. I retrofitted an oem wireless charger on my truck so it is really nice to just set my phone down and android auto automatically connects, no more wire. I also retrofitted 360 cameras on my truck also with help of WAMS. With this radio upgrade I gained the LTZ/HC trailer app that (with my 360 upgrade) allows me to enter trailer dimensions for invisible trailer, jack knife warning and trailer blind spot warning. This is truly smooth oem function. WAMS is providing a brand new $800 radio (same that is in 2021 trucks) and a $300 sd card. I think this is a great value for the programming and equipment you get, especially considering people are paying $600 for GPS only upgrade which is basically just a SD card. Thank you WAMS for offering these very cool OEM solutions.

So you're the reason FedEx is all backed up? ? Still thinking about your suggestion. ?

My wheel spacers are coming! My wheel spacers are coming! Only took two months[emoji24][emoji24] Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I posted a reply earlier but apparently the forum ate it, so I'll try again. Or I have experience in both electronics and manufacturing custom electronics solutions (in my case, in commercial buildings). Having a bad batch of electronic components happens quite frequently. And it's not necessarily that they're completely bad, either. All electronics components have a tolerance eating, ranging from 1% to 20% of what it's rated at. So a 10 ohm resistor for example could be as much as 2 ohms off (8 ohms or 12 ohms), which depending on the circuit could drastically alter it's operation. For hobbyist electronics tolerances are fairly high, but for complex or important devices it needs to be very low, say like in the defense or healthcare industry. In Nav-TV's device, it needs to have tight tolerances for proper operation and the component provider shipped them something looser than they wanted, which is causing intermittent issues. And from now on, drop the condescension from your posts. Just because someone doesn't agree with you on this matter, or any for that matter, it doesn't mean they have an ulterior motive and work for who you're railing against. It just means maybe they have more experience or knowledge on the matter than you do. But I have had that accusation leveled at me before (you must work for them). If that were true, then I not only work for Nav-TV, but also for Google, Elemental Designs, Chevy, GMC, Marvel or DC depending on the argument, and the list goes on. Apparently that's becoming a thing now, "Don't agree with me, you must work for them" because the only other explanation would be that you're wrong, and that just NOT possible. We spoke before I installed the device when I was asking how people who had them were fairing with them and their thoughts on it. That was several months ago. So do you really think an employee of the company would make posts like that, wait several months and then make it sound like they'd bought it & so far had a good experience with it? No, they wait a week or two & then rave about it. The reason I waited to install it was because the shop I wanted to use kept having employees come down with Covid, & I had to wait for JL Audio to build a stealthbox, which apparently they do for all their stealthboxes. They don't make them & put them on a shelf ahead of time, but make them after an order comes in, which takes around 4-5 weeks from order to delivery. Add to that I live in the middle of South Dakota, so it's doubtful I also work for Nav-TV. In fact I'd never heard of them until this board. I was going to use a JL Audio Fix86 to reshape the sound, but this appeared to be a better option, especially since PAC Audio hasn't put out anything for these trucks.

Under the bed or maybe fender well area may seem best they are typically at least a foot long also the point is to be as loud as possible right? Although I have seen some horns opening just pointing at the ground and seem to be plenty loud. But I'm not the type to use a air horn although seem kinda cool in land of car culture. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah exactly! I know if my carplay2air dies or stops working I’ll be ordering one of these the same day lol. Having everything wireless is wicked specially if your keeping the vehicle for many years.

Or this one, "Are you smarter than your Doctor". These guys are funny. Lighten up kids.

I pulled the assemblies off and took them to a shop and had them swap the the tophats. After watching the guy do it I felt it was money well spent. I’ve swapped springs on a small car years ago so I’ve had that life experience.

Done, and price dropped to $50 + shipping if needed. The mirror covers alone are worth more than that!

1999-2016 GM dropped the standard filter. The OE standard filter # supersedes to the high capacity filter in their system. Its the only one we've stocked at work for 10 years now. The AC Delco "Professional" line might have both available as one of the aftermarket filter manufacturers is what is really in the box. The AC Delco "OE" filter is the OE high cap.

Sh@tters full!!!! Guess that would be a great way to describe 2020... Hope everyone has a Very Merry Christmas!!!!

No problem, I am full of useless information that I will share when opportunity arises?.

They make it much harder these days but the best and cheapest route is often OEM interchange/exchange parts. Ford use to, in the 60's/70's have books on this listing all the alternate parts that would fit/work. I built some thunderous 352's from FE exchange books. You can build an FE Ford between 332 and 445 CID in almost one inch increments with stock parts and a good machine shop. Books like these use to list all critical dimensions. Finding valve swaps was easy. Tinker on sir!!

I agree hptuners and changing the lockup of the torque converter was only way to fully solve the issue on my 2015. I understand this isn’t a option for everyone but it’s worth it in my opinion.

Wow, HoosierZ, nice build. Waaayy better than the crap compressor I was using. I saw a guy, Mark Jenkins out of Maine, had a youtube video and used a Shankley compressor. It looked more like yours. I think all I could have done with that AutoZone special was Honda Civic coils, because it was bowing out worse than my boss's mother's knees!

Definitely don’t rely on the normal spring compressors that parts stores have. I built my own when I put Bilsteins on my ‘08. The screws on mine are 20mm (nearly 13/16”) and the hooks are high carbon steel. I also added safety pins to make sure the hooks couldn’t slip off the springs. The parts store compressors use 1/2”-5/8” screws and weaker cast or forged hooks.

No can on mine, bought with 71000 miles did afm/dod delete and non afm cam and tune about to hit 110000 miles,

Check the ground connection on the frame, behind the passenger side front wheel, beneath the wheel liner towards the bottom. You can just hold it back. Requires removal of nothing if you turn your steering appropriately. Remove the ground bolt, clean up the mating surface, put it back, and try that for a little while.

I've heard that the cost of repairs or replacement for the mag ride is not easy on the wallet. (based on K2 gen) If you plan to keep it a long time that is something to consider. If you are "3 years and trade-in" then probly not an issue for you.

13” stock vs 16.1” “BBK rotor” DONE! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally got some time to throw these on!!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My last 2 trucks have been DC's for these 2 simple reasons; It' s usually just me and/or one other in my truck. If I need the rear seats, it's still reasonably comfortable for normal sized people, for normal trips. The rest of the time, it's usually either sales materials, groceries and/or dirtbike stuff in the back. I want the 6.5' box and don't want a truck that turns like a school bus. I'm not interested in the 5.5' box, it's too small to be really useful for pickup related stuff. I use the box for deliveries, recreation and getting building supplies, among other things. I had the 5'8" box on my last truck & the 6.5 is waaaaay better. It's hard enough to park this one when in the city & going longer wheelbase would just make life tougher. This layout give the best of both worlds. I had a single cab at one time and have no interest in ever doing that again.

Tech 2 has one of them Or any other scan tool with full data list Ur problem is most likely a failing vent temp sensor It’ll say ‘upper vent temp’ and the reading will be at like 175F all the time so it thinks it’s 175 degrees Just happened to me two weeks ago on a canyon. Anyways u need scan tool

Finally got around to installing my console safe from Lock'er-down(got 20% off during Black Friday sale). Went with the LD2042EX. I wanted to keep that junk bin, haha! I did a little mod with the lighting(they sent me some push button pod lights). I stuck an LED strip under the inside lip and wired it to the existing console light. So now it comes on when you open the lid as well instead of having battery operated pod lights you have to push to turn on. Ordered the battery tray for the second battery addition(looking to go the DC-to-DC charger route after watching some videos of the different battery isolator types). Might be a while before I actually do this mod though, just getting it ready.

You made the right call. My Dad got the 3.0 Denali after trading his 6.2 2015 Denali and it’s awesome

When I was looking at CST I talked to a rep there and he was telling me about the adjustable reservoir version that wasn't on their site, but it was a while ago so perhaps they're not double adjustable, I thought I remembered that though. As a final update- When I first put sulastic springs on the back I felt it made the rear a little bit softer than the front, so the front was the more harsh part of the truck. After the softer front springs and Koni front struts l, I determined it does ride nicer and again, I feel the rear is a bit harsher again. As a reminder, at this point I still have Bilsteins out back. After a week or so of this, I decided to put the rear Koni shocks in. The truck rides even better yet. It finally rides like it should, how I remember previous Chevy trucks when they were new. Comfortable, good balance of soft and complacent. Firmer than something like a minivan or crossover for sure, but not harsh. I no longer notice even the tiniest of pavement marks, cracks are felt but not really noticeable or distracting. Summary of modifications- Front - -4wd Tahoe front springs. Ended up lowering the front 5/8". My truck never say really really low up front like I see some trucks though (seems like more often double cabs) -1" lower strut spacer, so the front sits about 3/8" higher than stock. -Koni front struts. Rear -Sulastic shackles. - these essentially give the rear leafs a 3rd stage. They make the rear springs softer until they reach the limiter then they have no real effect on ride quality. I have firmer than normal ones but since they replace a solid shackle, they do make the rear springs softer and better isolated. -Rear Koni shocks. These mods may not be for everyone and It's about $875 (I spent a lot more doing my trial and error) but I paid too much for this truck to not like the ride. Since I live in the north we have a temp swing of over 150 degrees summer to winter and the roads get rough. If I lived in the south, where I noticed roads are usually smoother maybe I'd like the Bilsteins. I don't care for the 5100s myself, but if you like a firm ride they're probably a better way to go.

My boss has a 14 Silverado 5.3 with 240K on the clock. Only thing he’s done is a tranny and torque and oil changes. He drives 140 miles per day to and from work with all of it being interstate. His truck is bone stock and is planning to drive it until at least 350K or more he said. He’s averaging 21.5 too on MPG’s he said. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Going by the number of people on here who have them vs the number having major issues, it doesn't appear to be widespread. It's frustrating for sure to spend that kind of money and have it not work, but it's not like this is a simple device either, and there's most certainly no help from GM to develop it, as they seem to be on anti-modification year as of late. As I believe I explained in a past post, according to one of their engineers they had a run of chips they ordered that while not out of spec, weren't made specific to what they ordered. In other words, they were in tolerance, but for a device as sensitive as this, just being in tolerance isn't good enough and can cause issues. And there was no way to identify the difference between which chips were on spec & which were in tolerance by looking at them. So it would be possible to have two devices in a row that had issues. I know it doesn't change your circumstances, but custom devices like this are much more complicated than an amp or a DSP, so there's going to be a greater chance of issues.

Nice. A friend of mine has a 1948 (pretty sure) Buick Century with a straight eight. It has a somewhat quiet exhaust, but is loud enough to hear and actually sounds really good. He drives it regularly to shows, and is mostly original and in relatively great shape. Cool car.

Interesting, a person who’s considered a stat man can’t find anything that states a vehicle life expectancy has risen to 200k miles. A simple search on the net will give plenty of articles to that affect. Of course GMs trying to defeat some of that with their Frankenstein engines. There’re not only game in town. Myself recently hitting my midway point of my sixth decade. Experienced points, carburetors, and 4K mile tune ups. As well as alternator, transmission, carburetor, water pumps etc changes being common half way through a vehicle life. That was around 100k miles. Now a couple fluid changes and spark plugs is the normal in that span of time. So yea 200K the new normal. No brainer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Factory cables Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s your negative battery cable. That’s what you’re talking about. Frame undercoating for that ground isn’t that big of deal typically because every single truck made has that undercoating. The better way to repair your truck would’ve been to go ahead and replace that cable. Goes from the battery negative down the firewall then splits into two, one bolts to the block in front of the starter and one goes to the frame where you’re talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s it. Try this test hot and cold. Or if you’re lucky try the test when your truck has just been acting up. Most likely you’ll find one or both cables fails the test, and you’ll have an explanation for why the truck has been acting strange. Examples: Service power steering Random U code DTCs Low battery message with good battery You keep replacing batteries and alternators Slow crank randomly Door locks cycling randomly Radio screen randomly blank Truck not maintaining KAM or ‘keep alive memory’- so when it sits and you start up it’s like you just disconnected the battery and resets the window learn and HVAC setting and things I hope this helps! -GM technician

Step three Ok now we’re onto the negative cable. Put your meter between the start of the negative cable at the battery and a good ground. I personally use the 15mm alternator mounting bolt. I’ve taken off the air intake for this photo but that isn’t required. Have your assistant crank your truck again in clear flood mode. This test, anything close to or over 200mV fails the negative cable and it would need to be replaced.

Step two Let’s check the positive mini cable first Put your meter between the bolt on the positive mini jumper cable and the end of it where it bolts onto the battery fuse block. Have your assistant crank the truck (or press the start button) while having the truck in clear flood mode as previously discussed. If the mV reading is around 100 or more, needs replacement.

Step one Have your assistant put your truck in ‘clear flood mode’ To do this your assistant will need to depress the brake and accelerator pedal all the way to the floor. What this does is turns off the injectors, so your truck will crank and crank and crank and not start which is how to perform this test.

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/219632-2019-rst-with-ios-infotainment-system-nav-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=2211337

And what's worse, I ended up leveling my truck anyways, so no longer stock height lol Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

LOL! SEVEN pages, and only one member followed the OP's request for an owner with 35's on a stock truck

Thanks! Yeah i was hoping 34s would be okay. Here is my buddies AT4 5.3L with 33x12.5r18 toyo MT that the dealership installed before sell...factory actual tire specs (33”x12.7”) and no rubbing according to him. They are 74lbs each tire though so his averaging 13mpg. My duratracs only weigh 49lbs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is a guy on the Facebook page that has a Trail Boss with 295/70R18’s on stock wheels with no rub. I don’t want to take all of his pics he posted but here is one of them.