Colossus

You should have gotten rid of that thing awhile ago.

You guys are celebrating pro football!? This year!?

Ditto. Thoughts and prayers for you and anyone else. God bless.

I also have never heard of any issues using Amsoil as long as the viscosity is correct? I don't know enough about it yet to know if I would want to use it in my Allison tranny for my duramax, but I am open to feedback on that from Nick and anyone else who has used it in diesel trucks and HD trannies. I do think Amsoil has good stuff for the differentials and I'll be switching to that here in the next few thousand miles.

loose connection?

And the gap is off.

You really think where it was built matters? Same equipment and tools used to assemble the vehicles at the various factories.

This will be about as small as you can find. https://uniden.com/collections/cb-radios/products/pro520xl-compact-mobile-cb-radio-with-pa

check the gap anyway.

These little things will not properly jump start a gas or diesel V8 engine and it's low voltage can cause damage. You need a REAL jump box, something like this: It is important to look at the number of required cranking amps (CA) before buying a jump starter, That’s especially true in a diesel engine, which is harder to start. The required CA varies with the size and/or type of the engine which you are looking to jump-start. If insufficient, you won’t be able to start your engine no matter how hard you try. Today we’re looking at the best portable jump starters for diesel engines. Diesel Engines have a bigger compression figure than Petrol Engines. So, they require a significantly greater number of CA than gasoline engines of the same size. According to an estimate, diesel engines require double cranking current than the petrol engine of the same size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KPSA0W/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&linkCode=li3&tag=turbogadgetre-20&linkId=e065bf83c7d6a105b4618a84a8f6a62c&language=en_US&th=1

My suggestion- Reboot the thing and start over! Take the battery cables off, leave them off for an hour, then touch them together (to discharge whatever power is left in the system, no it will not shock you unless you have 2 batteries and the other is still hooked up) then reconnect the battery cables, start her up and see how she does now. Keep a written log as well, noting what is happening, when it happens under what conditions.

Trust is earned, not freely given.

They couldn't sell them. Probably because they are so ugly. They are the ugliest truck out there. I have no doubt the Diesel engine was magnificent in them. But looks matter. Look at their sales numbers: Pretty shitty, eh? I'm surprised they haven't discontinued the Titan altogether, but maybe we'll see them do so in the next year or two. Calendar year United States 2010 23,416[20] 2011 21,994[20] 2012 21,576[21] 2013 15,691[21] 2014 12,527[22] 2015 12,140[22] 2016 21,880[23] 2017 52,924[23] 2018 50,549[24] 2019 31,514[24] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Titan

Yup, humidity and additive breakdown takes place in oil regardless of if it is used or not.

Try not to be disappointed so easily. It's been a bad year and These ugly trucks are not exactly hot sellers vs Ram and Ford.

Titans suck. Which is why they don't sell. No more Cummins diesel in them as of 2020 and no more king cab. Don't go the route of Nissan. You'll be sorry.

so the CEL comes on but does not set a code... that is very weird. Makes it almost impossible to diagnose.. but.. maybe some suggestions will come from others. Also post over on duramaxforum.com as well, lots more diesel owners over there. How many miles? Is the truck stock? Had any DEF/DPF issues? Replaced any glow plugs? How cold does it have to get before the light comes on? You did say freezing but many temps qualify for freezing

Nope.

Any other limiting factor is NOT a moot point. Engineering limits exist. These trucks are not built for high speed. The drive shaft, axle, and transfer case for those with 4WD are NOT engineered for high speeds. If you want to be a ****** and argue against that, it's your own stupidity you are arguing against.

^^^^^ That is why I tell people to change their plugs wellllll before 100,000 miles. (Same with coolant and tranny fluid and front and rear diff and transfer case) Just because the manual and GM says they are rated for 100,000+ miles doesn't mean they really are. But then there are the bone heads who say: "Well... I uh.. have 200,000 miles on the original plugs and never a problem..."

You want the battery charger to charge the low battery, not the truck alternator. You need something like this for V8 and diesel. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBCCJP700?partTypeName=Battery+Booster+Pack&keywordInput=jump+box Those little piddly sex toy ish 1200amp packs are only good for maybe 1 jump of a.. 2 cylinder.

Congrats

Wow, that Rocky Ridge does look better than stock!

I have had good results with the big real duramax (6.6L) plugging it in in temps below 30 degrees. I generally run the block heater on a timer and have it run for 2 or 3 hours prior to starting. The starts are much quicker, and the engine warms up much quicker as well.

You did what you had to do. Hope you find some peace of mind. What did you trade in for?