Jump to content

Bye Bye Gm


weymard

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, I sold my siverado 1500, I would like buy a GM 3500 duramax with low miles and 2008, but sadly they are too expensive for me, specially with a weak euros !

So I found this week a Ford f450 diesel, low miles and good price for me ! I know I know many parts break , motor issues etc... But I need, and I want for the fun, a big truck . Hope that this truck do not let me on the road ....

I would say to all the pleasure that I had to communicate with you, I taught so many things on this great forum that I will regret.

Happy Christmas, Joyeux Noël, at all !

Posted

Owning a Ford doesn't mean you have to stop reading or posting on this forum. Heck we want to hear about all the money you spend on repairs....................Kidding...............kidding. Hope the truck works out for you and hope to still see you around.

Posted

Just because you are buying a Ford doesnt mean you have to leave. Since you are getting the F-450 I think you have the 7.3 motor and not the 6.0 as the 6.0 has many problems. The 7.3 motor is a good motor but you didnt say what year your getting as I think they stopped making the 7.3, dunno.

 

We will save you a spot on here so when you come back to GM we can hear all the horror storys, just kidding.

Posted

Stay with us,there's no need for you to leave.Be sure to give us updates on how the ''new'' truck treats you... :lurk:

Posted

:D make fun of me!

It is the engine 6,4L 2008 with all made constructive recalls :lurk: and there is a lot :D

I shall give you news when I shall have it :)

Posted
:D make fun of me!

It is the engine 6,4L 2008 with all made constructive recalls :lurk: and there is a lot :D

I shall give you news when I shall have it :)

Stick with us Weymard. You are our lone voice from France!

Posted

When I will receive my new truck, in two month , I will post some pictures.

And I will follow the life of the forum. I hope that I will back to GM one day :lurk:

Posted
When I will receive my new truck, in two month , I will post some pictures.

And I will follow the life of the forum. I hope that I will back to GM one day :D

 

2 MONTHS :lurk::)

Posted
When I will receive my new truck, in two month , I will post some pictures.

And I will follow the life of the forum. I hope that I will back to GM one day :D

 

2 MONTHS :lurk::)

 

 

it is in not much meadows the necessary time, example : the money take 10 worked days between my French bank to the US bank of the dealer, another 10 days for the money to the shipping company, and it is impossible to do it in same time, 28-35 days (according weather, boats etc..) for the boat to the port Le Havre (France), another 7 day worked days for the customers, taxes, police controls etc... and after all this time i can keep my truck and "on the road again ..!

Posted

Just watch out with the 6.4 , if the high pressure pump goes it will put metal into all the injectors and they are having problem with the pistons melting.I use to work for ford for 6 years and know alot of people that still work there.If you need anything let me know I will find out for you.

Posted
Just watch out with the 6.4 , if the high pressure pump goes it will put metal into all the injectors and they are having problem with the pistons melting.I use to work for ford for 6 years and know alot of people that still work there.If you need anything let me know I will find out for you.

 

:thumbs: Thanks so much

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...