Is Your Gmt-900 Truck Or Suv Using Oil

[bg1988]

1 hour ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Dude's grandpa was a mechanic.  So he suddenly appears on out of left field with a grand total of 37 posts and automatically knows more than all of the rest of us on here put together.  He can fix anything, mostly just by using the correct octane of Top Tier fuel, which the GM Owner's Manual says to do anyway.  He must have absorbed all this magical all-powerful knowledge thru a$$-mosis--either he sat on his Owners Manual or had somebody read it to him.  Guess we should all just give up, because he's got high-speed internet in his trailer and all day to post while the rest of us are at work.  My grandpa said you can wrestle with a pig, buy why?  The pig loves it, and you just get dirty.  [Ending being withheld to respond to his inevitable wise-guy reply.]  

shell is not top tier all they sell is garbage gas  they  don't even  put the correct octanes in the correct tank (or they are cheating at the two local stations  or with the full 10% ethanol)..

I bet you don't even change your own oil

 

 

  his truck burns oil because he caused the damage....  always  half of what the manufacture recommends  if they recommend you change it at 7500 miles or 10,000 miles That is because they want it to last 100,000 miles and that is it.. and YOU Will have to buy a new one.. That is why you are a Chevy legend    if you make it to 100,000 miles (should be set to 300,000 miles)  they all ready know you would not make it to 200k or  300,000 miles  without a significant repair.

 

[j-ten-ner]

46 minutes ago, bg1988 said:

...they want it to last 100,000 miles and that is it...

I'm past 100,000mls. It is gonna blow. Tomorrow. For sure. I know it. Shit!

 

so long

j-ten-ner

[Jsdirt]

57 minutes ago, bg1988 said:

shell is not top tier all they sell is garbage gas  they  don't even  put the correct octanes in the correct tank (or they are cheating at the two local stations  or with the full 10% ethanol)..

I bet you don't even change your own oil

 

 

  his truck burns oil because he caused the damage....  always  half of what the manufacture recommends  if they recommend you change it at 7500 miles or 10,000 miles That is because they want it to last 100,000 miles and that is it.. and YOU Will have to buy a new one.. That is why you are a Chevy legend    if you make it to 100,000 miles (should be set to 300,000 miles)  they all ready know you would not make it to 200k or  300,000 miles  without a significant repair.

 

If you run conventional oil 7,500 miles or more in anything built after 2006, you won't get much past 50k, if you're lucky. These engines sludge up like crazy with neglected oil changes - the telltale is zero or very low gauge oil pressure, and the accompanying money light. The screen below the sending unit plugs up with crap.

 

If GM still built a good engine, you could run Amsoil up to 15k miles, or longer if you drive like a grandmother. The oil is up to the task - unfortunately, few engines today are.

Edited July 9, 2019 by Jsdirt

[KARNUT]

In the 90s-2000s we did the extended in diesel and gas with Amsoil, we’re dealers. Never a problem. The modern engines to day I wouldn’t extend like back then. Not because the oil got worse they change the engines. In my 4cylinder Camry I have no problem with their extended oil changes or my 92 truck. DI or cylinder deactivation engines need more frequent oil changes. Turbo engines too.


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[Black02Silverado]

Just some interesting reading if anyone is interested and you have high mileage on your AFM engine. 

 

An individual on bitog forum has a 2006 Envoy with the 5.3 and was using oil.  Figured he would try Valvoline's oil that came out 3yrs ago to clean up Cummins OTR  truck engines that had stuck ring issues.  The oil was specifically engineered by Valvoline and Cummins for this issue. It is a very stout oil with PAO and Ester base.

 

Anyway he has used the Valvoline Blue Restore and his oil consumption has gone down big time.  You can read his post here.

Edited July 9, 2019 by Black02Silverado

[bg1988]

48 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

If you run conventional oil 7,500 miles or more in anything built after 2006, you won't get much past 50k, if you're lucky. These engines sludge up like crazy with neglected oil changes - the telltale is zero or very low gauge oil pressure, and the accompanying money light. The screen below the sending unit plugs up with crap.

 

If GM still built a good engine, you could run Amsoil up to 15k miles, or longer if you drive like a grandmother. The oil is up to the task - unfortunately, few engines today are.

 Yeah but the other person cited he was towing   when your towing with a 3.73/4.10 gear 

it's in the 3000 to 4000 rpm range most of the time..   when towing the OCI is shorter.  with the stock pan.

 

if you want a longer OCI  with Towing  you need to ADD capacity to the oil pan and a larger filter...

 

mine is 3.08 gear  (the additional torque  379HP/472ft-lb makes up for it)  So  it's a lower RPM band and  Very High Tourqe output  from the electric motor(s)

[j-ten-ner]

I don't even know what we're talking about here.

MY bottom line is, it is bad engineering.

It shouldn't matter if you're towing or not, IF the truck (like mine) is equipped with the tow package. And, IF the tow package is sufficient enough to handle the additional stress on the oil and cooling system.

I guess what GM doesn't understand is that I'd be happy to pay a premium for an engine and/or additional systems which support towing and higher rpm.

I'm willing to pay for the extra engineering necessary to achieve that, but I'm not willing to pay for a bigger touch screen and 25 cameras just to get a skid plate for the oil pan (you get my drift).

 

so long

j-ten-ner

[Jsdirt]

I couldn't have said it any better, J-ten-ner. 

[bg1988]

3 hours ago, j-ten-ner said:

I don't even know what we're talking about here.

MY bottom line is, it is bad engineering.

It shouldn't matter if you're towing or not, IF the truck (like mine) is equipped with the tow package. And, IF the tow package is sufficient enough to handle the additional stress on the oil and cooling system.

I guess what GM doesn't understand is that I'd be happy to pay a premium for an engine and/or additional systems which support towing and higher rpm.

I'm willing to pay for the extra engineering necessary to achieve that, but I'm not willing to pay for a bigger touch screen and 25 cameras just to get a skid plate for the oil pan (you get my drift).

 

so long

j-ten-ner

it's not my fault most are too lazy to get the oil changed or do maintenance . I checked out about 13 Tahoes,   all of them were poorly maintained(except 3 of them)   even though they advertised as being "WELL Maintained "

 

 

the bottom line

 

Dirty oil is the beginning of your problems ....       if you want a heavy duty  oil system you install your own after market cooler  and a dual filter system and a Aux pump

 

with the AFM  system it starts with the  Oil pressure sensor  & screen (it becomes a make shift  oil filter)and you end with a empty pocket..  because too lazy to change the oil  and then whine when it burns oil... or consumes oil   

 

there is people that reported oil still being consumed after a full rebuild... 

 

 

Are you guys EVEN checking the oil correctly anyways?????   it  has to be sitting on flat land and  OFF for at lest 10 hours to get a full accurate reading.....  other wise it's just a imaginative  oil loss  that does not exist.

 

Edited July 9, 2019 by bg1988

[Heath]

I recently met a friend from visiting another church where my daughter goes to school and we discovered we owned the same 2004 GMC Sierra year model. In discussing our trucks he told me his truck was low of oil at 3000 miles at oil change time and a young mechanic told him that the left valve cover is where he is losing it. He had it replaced and problem solved! Anyone else about a quart low at oil change time?

[Jsdirt]

2004 is a GMT-800 - different animal altogether. A better one, I might add, than the 900 in terms of reliability and cost of ownership.

[MaverickZ71]

10 hours ago, Heath said:

I recently met a friend from visiting another church where my daughter goes to school and we discovered we owned the same 2004 GMC Sierra year model. In discussing our trucks he told me his truck was low of oil at 3000 miles at oil change time and a young mechanic told him that the left valve cover is where he is losing it. He had it replaced and problem solved! Anyone else about a quart low at oil change time?

Dude, you're about 53 1/2 pages of posts behind on this issue. . . just sayin.  

[bg1988]

On 7/8/2019 at 6:57 PM, j-ten-ner said:

I don't even know what we're talking about here.

MY bottom line is, it is bad engineering.

It shouldn't matter if you're towing or not, IF the truck (like mine) is equipped with the tow package. And, IF the tow package is sufficient enough to handle the additional stress on the oil and cooling system.

I guess what GM doesn't understand is that I'd be happy to pay a premium for an engine and/or additional systems which support towing and higher rpm.

I'm willing to pay for the extra engineering necessary to achieve that, but I'm not willing to pay for a bigger touch screen and 25 cameras just to get a skid plate for the oil pan (you get my drift).

 

so long

j-ten-ner

welll GM did increase the oil capacity to 8.5qt  that in it self says a lot  obviously they are trying to use it as a patch  also the Oil life monitor has been updated as well in the newer ones to a shorter OCI

[Heath]

Ok I want to throw this out there to you, what's your opinion on using Conventional Motor oil. My mechanic changed the valve cover (2004 GMC Sierra 5.3 crew cab) and showed me where the issue was on the pcv valve and blamed it on the conventional oil and has convinced me to changed to synthetic oil.  I've used Valvoline oil  and now I'm going to Valvoline Synthetic. Here's my real question, he is encouraging me to add Lucas oil treatment on top of the 6.5 quarts of oil and I said that'll overfill it. He said it won't hurt it but I said I've always understood it's worse to have an engine overfilled than to be a little low.  Please give me your thoughts....

[diyer2]

An additive isn't necessary to me.

Won't hurt just added expense.

Using synthetic oil instead of dino oil is a big upgrade IMO.

How often are you doing oil and filter changes?

I wouldn't go over 5 k miles.