Jump to content

Exit ramp speed question???


BmannZR2

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, got a question that I would like some input on. This based on something that I experienced and did not get pulled over but it made me think about the situation of how the speed signs are posted at exit ramps...

Late one night I was very cautiously driving the speed limit of 65 on the freeway coming home and came to my exit where I usually just slow to the 50mph speed of the feeder to exit and thought nothing of it until I saw the po-po perched in a bank driveway waiting for a victim. I past him with no problem but I realized there was a yellow sign prior to the exit stating 35mph. It just didn't make sense to go from 65 to 35 and have to get back up to 50 in such a short stretch of road. That would be extremely dangerous to slow down that quick and then punch it to get back up to the merging traffic on the feeder...

It's just something that's been on mind that I want to know if they can legaly pull you over for not getting down to 35mph.

 

Sorry for the long story but I wanted to get the details in there.

 

:driving:

Posted

The yellow signs are the recommended speed and not the actual speed limit like the white signs.

Posted

He was probably watching for a particular vehicle. For example they want to arrest someone and know what vehicle they drive and what times the person is likely to head home. Also maybe a drug sting or the like. I see them sitting around in our area watching and since they don't even take after obvious speeders, something else is going on.

 

Of course if they want to, they can just give you a "too fast for conditions" ticket regardless of what the speed limit sign says.

Posted

Ah, but they can getcha for going over that yellow posted speed under 'too fast for conditions'.

Posted

Yellow signs like that are recommended, the only ones you need to worry about are the normal black and white signs or the construction signs. If you get stopped for speeding and they give that as a reason, you've done something else or they're looking for something/someone.

Posted

The yellow signs post what that particular speed that stretch of road is designed for. Some vehicles can safely drive above that speed depending on conditions but usually its set by sharpness of curves, site distance and condition of the road itself.

Posted

Thanks for all the input...

If I would have got pulled over I would have probably went to jail for other reasons but it scared me enough to make me search for more answers...

Posted

Thanks for all the input...

If I would have got pulled over I would have probably went to jail for other reasons but it scared me enough to make me search for more answers...

 

 

 

You probably shouldn't do stupid things if you don't know your traffic laws. That's how like every episode of Cops starts. :lol:

Posted

Thanks for all the input...

If I would have got pulled over I would have probably went to jail for other reasons but it scared me enough to make me search for more answers...

 

 

HAHA better be careful here in wonderful Houston :ughdance: . I've had some run ins on Crystal Beach just because they were bored. Never in the city tho, they have too much real stuff to worry about

Posted

Not sure what Texas says about it, but this is directly from the State of FL code. Just like what has been mentioned..

 

 

16. Advisory speed signs are warning signs and display recommended maximum

 

 

 

comfortable and safe speed rather than the maximum legal speed as displayed on

 

 

 

regulatory signs used for speed zoning. Hence, their color is yellow and black

 

 

 

(orange and black for work site application) rather than white and black.

 

 

 

 

The

 

 

 

MUTCD illustrates two types of these signs in Section 2C-35 and 2C-36.

 

 

 

a. The ADVISORY SPEED (W13-1) plate is a supplemental square sign which

 

 

 

“…shall not be used in conjunction with any sign other than a warning sign,

 

 

 

nor shall it be used alone” (Old edition of the MUTCD). The MUTCD further

 

 

 

states “Except in emergencies, or at construction or maintenance sites,

 

 

 

where the situation calling for an advisory speed is temporary, an Advisory

 

 

 

Speed plate shall not be erected until the recommended speed has been

 

 

 

determined by accepted traffic engineering procedure.” Concerning

 

 

 

temporary speed signs the MUTCD also states: Warning signs with

 

 

 

advisory speed limits should be posted at those locations where the safe

 

 

 

speed is lower than the normal legal limit. At selected locations, reduced

 

 

 

legal maximum limits may be established as provided by statute and

 

 

 

posted accordingly.” (Old edition)

 

 

 

b. The ADVISORY EXIT SPEED (W13-2 and W13-3) signs are rectangular

 

 

 

signs which are used alone prior to and/or on expressway and freeway

 

 

 

ramps, and like the ADVISORY SPEED (W13-1) plate, are intended for use

 

 

 

where engineering investigations show the need of advising drivers of the

 

 

 

recommended maximum comfortable and safe speed.

 

 

 

ADVISORY SPEED signs are not meant to show a speed beyond which a

 

 

 

vehicle will spin out (if on a horizontal curve) or bottom out (if used for a dip or

 

 

 

hump in the roadway). Rather, they allow for a comfortable margin of safety

 

 

because of variations in vehicle and pavement characteristics.

 

Now, as mentioned above, the "legal" speed limit is in ideal conditions. I have written tickets in the past during rain storms where an individual is traveling the posted speed limit, however because of the roadway being flooded or the rain being so sever that visibilty is limited, it was unsafe. We run into it more in the fog here than anything, Same with a motor vehicle accident and the person says that they were doing the speed limit, but visibility was severly reduced, they are cited.

Posted

Being law enforcement I know for a fact that the yellow sign you are talking about is the DOT's (Department Of Transportation) recommended "safe speed" for all vehicles to negotiate the curve/turn. If you really pay attention when you are driving, you will see these all over the place and not just on exit ramps, guess they are just alittle more noticable there.

 

LOL....you should of had a question about different signs for your license test, how quick we forget.. LOL, no big deal though.

Posted

Mike74 is dead on. The yellow signs are advisory signs and not a legal speed limit sign. I've seen many crashes where 18 wheelers felt they could go faster and end up rolling over. The only citation I'd write there would be too fast for conditions in bad weather.

Posted

speed signs are designed as a general number to maximize fuel economy and safety

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...