Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What is the average weight that you tow with your 2500HD? I've had to turn down some 18,000lb loads because my truck won't handle that. I'm looking to get another 2500, but wonder if the airbags help out the load enough to support that kind of weight, or I should just get a dually. Don't want the dually unless necessary.

For that kind of weight you'll need a dually
Posted

Usually it's an 8000 pound camper. I have pulled a 13000 pound trailer. Truck weighs 8300 alone. Get above a 10k load truck loses speed uphill.

 

18K trailer consideration of dually depends on weight on rear axel. SRW is limited by tire rating.

Posted

Usually the load is not very tongue heavy, well balanced on the triple axles. I wouldn't haul them often, so I don't know that I want to buy a truck based around that. Might just stick with a 2500HD, and have it set up about like yours.

Posted

7dfc6020b0362c06a18c462e3b9a2727.jpg

 

Getting these now because the other tires are not in production and on back order for a year or more.

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Posted

My TOYO M/T tires were awesome for the 1k miles I had them. Guess I need to update my profile and delete the 02 from it [emoji17]

Posted

I have driven all day on ice pulling campers before. I like narrow tires for ice.

Posted

Oil change, new belts and a motorvac...now she's got her pep back again! Far better than any of those injector cleaners in a can! :thumbs;

Posted

Mud terrains are awful on ice

 

 

Ryan

The more siping the better... Which MT's don't have much of. Digging through deep snow is another story. Although I was impressed with how my AT's do in deep snow compared to the mudgrips on my old pickup, I'm sure the locker helps out a little too. No need for 4x4 in 8 inches.

Posted

The more siping the better... Which MT's don't have much of. Digging through deep snow is another story. Although I was impressed with how my AT's do in deep snow compared to the mudgrips on my old pickup, I'm sure the locker helps out a little too. No need for 4x4 in 8 inches.

Just need weight in the bed
Posted

Just need weight in the bed

To me, adding much weight to a 4x4 is a losing battle. Yes, more traction, but also more weight to stop. Granted, whenever I'm driving in snow I usually have a few hundred pounds of gear in the bed anyway.

 

 

Can't put a street tire on a big truck

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

https://www.treaddepot.com/#!productDetail/tireStandardFitment/90000025349

 

These are a 33". Will get great traction.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 5,058 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...