Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've never had an issue with seized plugs when I put a good coat of antiseize on them. I actually have more issues with getting the boots off the spark plug end, and yes, I even coat the crap out of them with dielectric

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Same here.

Posted (edited)

I had an 04 Z71 that I traded with 180K miles mostly HWY miles. I called an auto repair owner friend of mine about changing the plugs at 100K miles. He said the ones he'd were changing at his place still looked good. Didn't mention anything about problems getting them out. He said change them when the service engine light comes on. I picked up a set carried them with me just in case. Finally gave them away. Still in there when traded at 180K. I must add that I travel a lot that was just a little over three years, if that makes a differents.

Edited by KARNUT
Posted

I wouldn't say they looked good when I took them out. Also confused on which plug wires to get rock auto shows two different acdelco wires for my truck.

Posted

Some have a 90° plain rubber boot, and others have a (just guessing) 30° bend with a metal shield around the boot.

 

Also, there was an "old style" coil I guess. I thought they were all the same. Haven't worked on many LS engines, so I couldn't tell ya.

Posted

Some have a 90° plain rubber boot, and others have a (just guessing) 30° bend with a metal shield around the boot.

 

Also, there was an "old style" coil I guess. I thought they were all the same. Haven't worked on many LS engines, so I couldn't tell ya.

Ls are straight or 30° i think
Posted

I wouldn't say they looked good when I took them out. Also confused on which plug wires to get rock auto shows two different acdelco wires for my truck.

Usually they tell you to match the number on your coil packs to the wires you need...

Posted

Picked up a 8'x 16' enclosed trailer from my wife's uncle, this weekend is moving weekend..... Not gonna be very much fun...

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

b21d7972da9da3f6b53d27f34173ca3c.jpg

 

Ordered myself one of those... however not for anywhere near that price. Normally I would build from scratch... I do have a set of LS3 heads and the complete manifold from one of these crates I snagged with 3000 miles on them for $300 but I basically would have had to buy a new block, put together a rotating assembly... dress it... etc. Finding a used 6.2 is not easy... and then rebuild it. My time is worth a lot more than the cost of the crate plus they say 2 years warranty. I might crack it open and take some measurements before I run it.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Edited by 1994Vmax
  • Like 2
Posted

Started the redo of my garage floor

 

ac984182b3c50bad093eb0def05ccc14.jpg

 

e26544c44c899fe20293e24ec7eee38b.jpg

 

 

Ryan

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

b21d7972da9da3f6b53d27f34173ca3c.jpg

 

Ordered myself one of those... however not for anywhere near that price. Normally I would build from scratch... I do have a set of LS3 heads and the complete manifold from one of these crates I snagged with 3000 miles on them for $300 but I basically would have had to buy a new block, put together a rotating assembly... dress it... etc. Finding a used 6.2 is not easy... and then rebuild it. My time is worth a lot more than the cost of the crate plus they say 2 years warranty. I might crack it open and take some measurements before I run it.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

I'm wanting a 525 version whenever/if the LS1 in the Z starts to give up. Going be years, especially if I jump ship to another job. Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Wish I had a floor to paint. Mine is dirt.

 

Lots of fun working on things in there, especially small parts. They warp instantly to another dimension, never to be found again .... until you spend money on a replacement. Then, they suddenly appear. Got to concrete that floor some day. It's at the end of a long, LONG list of things that need fixing around here. It never ends ...

 

The shipping crate parts I got from a local factory help. Wish I had 4 more of them - they fit perfect in here. Of course, parts find their way into the cracks ...

 

House%20property%20barn%207-18-2012%2030

Posted (edited)
SnakeEyes, on 01 Jul 2016 - 08:46 AM, said:SnakeEyes, on 01 Jul 2016 - 08:46 AM, said:

I'm wanting a 525 version whenever/if the LS1 in the Z starts to give up. Going be years, especially if I jump ship to another job.

 

I thought about the 525 but for a truck with an automatic the cam has too much duration and coupled with the 110 degree LSA to drive nice at low speeds. Easily need a 3200+ rpm stall for that. This hot cam is pretty mild in comparison and should have pretty good street manners... If GM's advertised power curves are at all accurate the torque should be pretty acceptable to run a 2500 stall. It's somewhat important as even though this truck is a toy I honestly have a 7.5' Western Plow I will run on it in the winter to clean my yard out. I already have 456 gears in it and through a built 4L60E it should be good. The truck is a 1990 GMC K5 Jimmy.... a rust free loaded little gem I got in the spring. The 350 in it runs nice and smooth.... but smokes like holy hell at 3000+ rpm and has a fluttery knocking sound that would make me think a broken piston. Has good oil pressure and doesn't miss... Don't care what's actually wrong with it though now.... it can go to the metal bin lol. The LS3 should be on my shop floor in about 2 weeks.

 

For fun I found a Youtube video of a Nova running a stick behind this engine and with nothing more than headers and tuning they laid down 490 whp. Oddly enough the guy I bought this through tunes at the dealership on the side and said a customers 55 Belair they dropped one of these in with a stick and headers also made 490 whp...... pretty impressive. With bigger tires and through an auto I don't expect much more than 400 whp with mine.

Edited by 1994Vmax
Posted

I wonder how much money it would take to get similar HP and TQ out of a 5.3L...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...