What did you do with your truck/shop today

[Daryl LBZ]

I figured it'd probably cost almost as much. With all the extra effort I'd rather do the crate engine too.

[Conky Conky]

Thanks for the response I guess I'll just try putting a new 195 thermostat in. I'm thinking maby the old one wasn't working properly cause like I'd say even in the summer it the heat gadge would bairly get over a quarter and in the winter it would blow decently warm air but wast hot and if it idled for more then 10-15 min it would cool right off. Iv had this happen on diesel but not a gas I'm stumped. Hopefully a new thermostat will fix this I thought a about a 200 thermostat instead. I know these TBI motors like to run on the warm side.

[Jsdirt]

It's been my experience that anything OBD-II ('96 +) runs much hotter than anything prior.

 

Those symptoms you described are classic of a lazy t-stat. Rarely to they fail closed, blow hoses and spray coolant - most of the time they fail partially open. They'll never achieve operating temperature that way, especially a diesel.

Edited July 2, 2016 by Jsdirt

[SarahsGMC]

 

86 got new brakes, looks like I'm going to replace Master cylinder and brake booster too

 

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[Colossus]

Is that 86 a 4x4?

[Conky Conky]

It's been my experience that anything OBD-II ('96 +) runs much hotter than anything prior.

 

Those symptoms you described are classic of a lazy t-stat. Rarely to they fail closed, blow hoses and spray coolant - most of the time they fail partially open. They'll never achieve operating temperature that way, especially a diesel.

Like I say I'm replacing my rad cause it looks to be seeping antifreeze and the dam truck is low every time I check it witch is why the rads being replaced. And know I don't have a blown head gasket no antifreeze in my oil it runs like new at 320km this truck is to me like that 70charger is to Vin Diesel. I hope your right about the thermostat that's what I'm learning towards aswell. I just fear with this new rad it's going to take forever to warm up in the winter if it even can warm itself up that's a big rad I put into it.

[Conky Conky]

 

86 got new brakes, looks like I'm going to replace Master cylinder and brake booster too

 

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Looks good for a 80s GM last 80s GM I had was 85 4x4 Chevy I it left me stranded every time I drove it so eventually I took a massive J D pay loader and I pushed that money pit into the ground literally. Now Iv learned it's cheaper to buy them built by a long shot. Them dam dual fuel tanks were such a problem all the time little loan the carburettor problems.

[Chris]

Is that 86 a 4x4?

With the front hubs poking through, looks like it

[LongrangeLauber]

With the front hubs poking through, looks like it

Yup, you can also see the front diff if you zoom in

 

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[MikeNH]

Is that 86 a 4x4?

 

 

Yes. With GM, a K-series truck is 4WD. C-series is 2WD.

[SarahsGMC]

Yessirs. I've rebuilt the top end new carb intake air cleaner and valve covers runs awesome. Just doing little bits here and there major stuff is done. Need to fix the fuel tanks next.

 

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[Chris]

I used half a tank yesterday towing a 10x6 open trailer with office furniture across town.

[Daryl LBZ]

I'm going to order a new A/C condensor this week. I pressure washed the current one and used super clean degreaser on it. When I took the truck for a ride the A/C was definitely working better, but anytime I made a stop it would still get a little warmer then go back to cold when I was moving again.

 

From what I've read for the most part this leads me to believe it's the condensor. The condensor also has a ton of smashed up fins so that's not helping it's case either. Either way a new Denso one is under $65 so no big deal if it's not the issue.

[Jsdirt]

If that has a fan clutch, try replacing that first. They tend to get lazy, and coast more with age, creating the exact symptom you described (also a symptom of r134a conversions of r12 systems, but that doesn't apply to your truck). Even if it feels decent, if it has over 50k on it, replace it. That is one item I'd recommend going OEM on. The aftermarket ones are utter garbage.

 

If electric, make sure it's turning full speed & the electrical connections are clean. Also check in between the condenser and radiator for mouse nests or tree crap - you'd be surprised how much can get in there.

 

If all that checks out, then replace the condenser.

[Daryl LBZ]

If that has a fan clutch, try replacing that first. They tend to get lazy, and coast more with age, creating the exact symptom you described (also a symptom of r134a conversions of r12 systems, but that doesn't apply to your truck). Even if it feels decent, if it has over 50k on it, replace it. That is one item I'd recommend going OEM on. The aftermarket ones are utter garbage.

 

If electric, make sure it's turning full speed & the electrical connections are clean. Also check in between the condenser and radiator for mouse nests or tree crap - you'd be surprised how much can get in there.

 

If all that checks out, then replace the condenser.

Electric fans here thankfully. Fans are definitely working as designed, checked that out when I did the pressure washing. I believe everything is clean, but I'll check that out when I replace the condensor. Really sucks though because I thought about replacing it when I swapped motors, but thought it would be like $200. I should have checked into it further.