Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nicely done!

 

Hood is primed, on, they got it lined up spot on. Rocker is straight, fender is straight, he's just waiting for paint, which should commence today.

 

Poor guy looks forlorn with no front end. Dropped off my new LF headlight, so I'll have a spotless front end when all is said and done.

 

Got a 17 Ram Laramie as a rental. Not sure if it's just me or what, but that thing is pretty Spartan feeling compared to Clyde.

Posted

Back to the dealer again! This time to exchange the GM in channel wind deflectors. After installing the deflectors I noticed wind noise on the drivers side that I couldn't resolve. Determined the driver side deflector was "loose" in the channel but passenger side was a snug fit. Pulled them out and compared, the drivers side is about 5/16" shorter. No wonder it's loose and leaks air. Really hoping it won't be a hassle to exchange, then of course they won't be in stock so it'll be another two weeks waiting.

Posted (edited)

Detail day

 

Not bad for almost 8 yrs 75K miles

 

e4fb8d943ec8f17e5e973366b5667d62.jpg

 

d55038df81e99bce85722845bf21529a.jpg

 

3b21830381ed57e5260bf95976174036.jpg

 

Needs to be clayed especially on the rear

 

f9619a0192a57a5997d28d716dfb3cdd.jpg

 

 

Ryan B.

Edited by RyanbabZ71
  • Like 5
Posted

Took out the blown 8 inch sub which was supposed to be replaced by a bazoka 8 inch but didn't quite fit due to the magnet hit the back of the enclosure. Might have to make a spacer

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Probably just the angle of the picture but it looks like your spare tire is hanging loose.

Are those chips in the paint behind the rear tires? Mine was absolutely horrible when I traded my truck in. I didn't have mud flaps and I think that and a few times of doing smoky burnouts really chipped the paint. I'm definitely leaving my flaps on my current ride.

 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

Edited by michigan2500hd
Posted (edited)

Installed a Aeroskin deflector on my '15 today. I haven't decided if I like the look yet. Hopefully it helps with deflecting a decent percent of the nasty little buggers over the windshield though. I'm sure a higher profile one would do a better job.

Makes me think the front end needs a good looking brush guard or bull bar.

 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

090bc3c30fdc8a690bda23dcad0582e5.jpg

Edited by michigan2500hd
Posted

Well, got my new exhaust setup installed. Borla XR1 muffler and got it dumped after the rear axle with a 5" tip. I like the setup, solid deep tone. I like it, it's a little louder then expected due to the drone. The gf hates it, haha. Might go down just step, but I'll see how it goes.

 

b1cbc4816ffe7b9c9f7efd1ea15f2528.jpg63757dee21ffd7f8e5db6526e3f772e9.jpg553b98329ea09e6cc60f18a7f850ff51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Probably just the angle of the picture but it looks like your spare tire is hanging loose.

Are those chips in the paint behind the rear tires? Mine was absolutely horrible when I traded my truck in. I didn't have mud flaps and I think that and a few times of doing smoky burnouts really chipped the paint. I'm definitely leaving my flaps on my current ride.

 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

Spare tire is fine

 

A few chips but mainly Tar

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I didn't have flaps on mine for one winter in New England and boy did the paint get chowdered up behind the tires. Flaps will be on all my trucks.

Posted

Gave my truck a good spit bath after a good wkend at the ranch and getting muddy.

86b5b4c3d5e15fbcd703522c9c351e39.jpg1116b336949cc302df7f546d43a87d96.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Does anyone else think that the GMT-900s look better than the current K2s? Ryan- That is one of the nicest looking -900s I've seen.

  • Like 1
Posted

Changed headlight bulbs and since I had the airbox out I blew that out and cleaned the filter a little. Really miss how easy it was to change bulbs on my '06 and '01. More complicated and I have to do it more often, go figure.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't have flaps on mine for one winter in New England and boy did the paint get chowdered up behind the tires. Flaps will be on all my trucks.

 

When mine was still new, I noticed the chipping after just 1k miles on the clock! Bought a set of plastic GM flaps not long afterward.

 

Crappiest paint I've ever seen. Chips if you look at it crosseyed ...

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Spare tire is fine

 

A few chips but mainly Tar

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

What have you done to keep the rust away? I see a lot of the 900's around here now with rusted out bed sides.

 

 

When mine was still new, I noticed the chipping after just 1k miles on the clock! Bought a set of plastic GM flaps not long afterward.

 

Crappiest paint I've ever seen. Chips if you look at it crosseyed ...

 

Totally agree with this. As far as chips go the paint on my 2006 with 246k miles looks better than the paint on my 2014 Cruze with 50k miles. That's no joke either. This new paint is terrible.

Edited by Daryl Z71
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 636 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...