Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That g8 is actually up for 18900. Bet I could have them knock some off if I really wanted it. That dealer over prices everything anyways

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Posted

Changing spark plugs in my 78 jimmy. I got the one in the far back passenger side out, hard part is trying to get it back in. My back is killing me :(

Posted (edited)

Oh yeah update on my truck. Took it by the shop to see if they could weld those cracks. Well he pointed something out to me that made my pocket shrink. I guess my impact is too powerful cause I actually bent the tube and bent the spring perch from over tightening the u bolts. Got online when I got home and found a 14 bolt about 4 hours away

 

http://westmd.craigslist.org/pts/4453827847.html

 

Getting torn down and rebuilt anyways so I don't care if it doesn't even work. As long as it isn't bent and rotted out

 

Edit: damn he sold it. This is a hard one to find

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Edited by rdnckhntr94
Posted

No. The spring stays in place while the shock drops out tbe bottom

So lift the truck and let the suspension droop, then remove the bottom bolt that holds the control arm and strut? Then remove top bolt and slide out.

 

All this without any worries about springs?

Posted

So lift the truck and let the suspension droop, then remove the bottom bolt that holds the control arm and strut? Then remove top bolt and slide out.

 

All this without any worries about springs?

Did a Frontier similar to that, it was so easy. Just a few bolts and a few minutes.

Posted

So lift the truck and let the suspension droop, then remove the bottom bolt that holds the control arm and strut? Then remove top bolt and slide out.

 

All this without any worries about springs?

2 bolts on bottom side of lower control arm and then the stud up top

Posted

2 bolts on bottom side of lower control arm and then the stud up top

 

2 small bolts for 2wd trucks. 4wd trucks have just one big bolt on the bottom and the stud in the top.

 

And just jack the truck up, put jack stands on the frame, and let the front suspension droop. If need be, put the jack under the control arm (under the ball joint) to push it up so you can tighten the top stud nut

Posted

Trucks are so much better to work on. I'm taking my car in at 8 or 9 years old for the serpintine belt. No friggin way I'm even going to try to get in there.

  • Like 1
Posted

all spark plugs are out, SP holes are soaking in marvel mystery oil. Gonna put a battery on her this weekend hopefully she'll fire right up and run!

 

Oh and got the dead mouse out of my coolant tank haha

Posted

The top I dont remember the sizes needed. You need a small one like maybe an 8mm to hold the stud while you turn with like a 14mm or 15mm. The stud will turn if you dont hold it. It is attached to the piston inside the shock

Posted

What had me worried was the thought of having to compress the springs. But if its just a slide out process I'm very relieved since its just another job doable in a garage.

Posted

Yep, takes a socket, couple wrenches, jack, and 1-2 stands

Posted

Chris, didn't you say you were looking at doing a hybrid axle swap in your truck? I finally found the RPO code and it's AXN. I need one now, so let me you if you find one for me lol

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...