Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

What I did do was drive my truck for two rainy days on my muddy, sandy, dirty, sloppy road. What I need to do now is spend a freakin week trying to get all that crap washed off the underside of the truck & wife's Jeep. Then MAYBE I'll be able to find the bottom of our engines to get the oil changes done too. Need to find a car wash that'll blast the under carriage.

Posted

The touch-free ones are anyway. Hit one today to get 5k miles of road crap and giant FL bugs off the front. Can see the film a mile away, but it looks 10x better than it did. My black truck looked flat gray.

 

Had to go pick up a dead E-350, so no time to bust out the buckets and hose. Seems I haven't had time for those things in over a year now ... :happysad:

Posted

The pressure washer is unavailable right this moment. There is a car wash on base where I'll just have to pay a bit to get wet & dirty. Well worth it to shed a few pounds off the vehicles.

Posted

The fog relay must not be getting juice, or, might not be supplying juice to the fogs.

 

85 & 86 need power to flow through, to create a magnetic field that connects 87 & 30 together. If you were to manually touch 87 to 30, the fogs should come on.

He has it marked in the pic I might have the fuse in backwards for fogs but fogs still work normal just not on the hi setting

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Tinted the front windows to match the rear of my 16 Sierra All Terrain

Does it shake or vibrate? Lol

Edited by rdnckhntr94
Posted

He has it marked in the pic I might have the fuse in backwards for fogs but fogs still work normal just not on the hi setting

 

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

85 (power) & 86 (ground) need power from the high beams in order to trip the relay, and turn the fogs on. Easiest way would be to get power from the High beams (only when on, so 87 or 30 depending on how it's wired) onto 85 of the fog relay, then make sure 86 has a good ground (or vice versa - you'd have to test them - my memory is foggy).

Posted

Ryan, you just keep that white crap up there!!! We could always build a fence to make sure it don't come down south!! :jester:

Posted

Or east!

 

I hate snow. Every storm takes a year off the truck's life. Road salt central over here ... :nonod:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,207 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...