Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

mine never did it in my gmt800. only in my gmt900

 

It would seem to be more agressive in the 900s. I have several friends that have 800s like mine and some of them don't have the "bounce" and other noticed theirs to work like mine (started dropping after a period of years of driving).

Posted

mine never did it in my gmt800. only in my gmt900

 

It would seem to be more agressive in the 900s. I have several friends that have 800s like mine and some of them don't have the "bounce" and other noticed theirs to work like mine (started dropping after a period of years of driving).

 

 

The older trucks (800) had a different alternator, charging system. My 2001 Z28 always charges per my electrical volt gauge.

Posted

Got a picture of what we unplug to make this work? I don't really have a problem since I don't have high amp draw on my battery but my old school brain has never cared to see a voltmeter bounce like this does. "Used" to mean you had a problem, "now" you have to wait until you get an error code to tell you instead of using your gauges as your suppose to be able to.

Posted

if i see intermittent voltage drop, thats mean its less stress on engine, voltage regulator and better mpg

 

if Alternator loaded to max capacity, alternator itself can act as kind of engine brake (electro magnatic force) and thats how freight trains brakes work

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFO2rcrshnU

Posted

if i see intermittent voltage drop, thats mean its less stress on engine, voltage regulator and better mpg

 

if Alternator loaded to max capacity, alternator itself can act as kind of engine brake (electro magnatic force) and thats how freight trains brakes work

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFO2rcrshnU

 

 

Maybe I misunderstood, but, it sounds like the trains just dump the generated power from the brakes into resistors and convert it into heat. Why don't they take the power being generated and store it in batteries or some other storage device? They could use the power up on the next incline.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I'm just curious as to why my voltage starting "dropping" after a couple of years of driving. The voltmeter was always constant at ~14 volts then one day it just started dropping and raising and has ever since. I'm always scanning my gauges, pet peeve of mine. I found out it was normal operation but to not see it happen until after a couple of years driving???

 

 

If it just started happening, I'd suspect a bad battery. My battery died at year 1.5.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

This is completely normal on the 900's the alternator is run off the pcm and only charges the battery as needed. It helps to save a lil bit on mileage. I had a decent sized stereo set up in my Silverado running 3 amps, and mine would go to about 10.5V for a while and then back up, and never had an issue with the amps being starved of power.

  • 8 years later...
Posted

My 2012 will drop down in voltage it will be normal and then sometimes drop from 14 to 10 and lights will come on like I restarted the truck. Battery is 1 year old and alternator is 2 months old.. what could be the issue?

Posted
23 hours ago, Brandon Elrod said:

My 2012 will drop down in voltage it will be normal and then sometimes drop from 14 to 10 and lights will come on like I restarted the truck. Battery is 1 year old and alternator is 2 months old.. what could be the issue?

Bad ground(s) or corrosion under the insulation on the battery cables (the cables on the GMT900 series are known to corrode under the insulation)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...