Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Brake line replacement

Recommended Posts

Hey all,


Was under my 2002 Tahoe the other day and noticed rusted brake lines under the drivers side door area. They look pretty bad and I think I'm going to have them looked at. Has anyone had to have brake lines replaced on their trucks? Just wondering what it might cost.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced my worn out rubber hoses with Russell SS braided hoses, and noticed a firmer pedal. The front hoses are shorter than stock , and they provide a braket that installs into the front frame. It is a very nice, clean setup, and it will be the last set of brake hoses you ever have to install. Check out this link:



Edited by Gurrzt
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, had a 95 Nissan sentra that rusted through the brake lines, luckily it didn't do it on the highway and did it in the parking lot of mcdonalds. E-brake the rest of the way home. Talkabout scary! Cost me $300 and they replaced almost all the lines so I wouldn't know if it would cost more for these trucks.or.not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When mine broke, I took all of the lines off and started to replace, but I ran out of time on the weeked, so I took it to a local shop. They charged me about $450 to intall the lines. I provided stainless steel line, braided stainless flex lines, and all of the line nuts. To get the lines out of the ABS unit, I had to cut all of them, un-bolt the unit from the frame, put it in a vice and use a pipe wrench on the line nuts.


I bought my stainless steel line in bulk rolls from Summit Racing. It is only about $10 a roll more than the poly coated steel line and is just about as easy to work with. My mechanic called the stainless steel lines overkill, but I didn't want to worry about them. They have been on for over two years and still look brand new.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies. I have an appointment to have them replaced at a local shop in a couple weeks. I've been monitoring them and spraying the rusty sections near the ABS with some WD-40 in the meantime. How abuot the fuel and trans lines while we're at it? Anyone have to replace those?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

This seems like a good place to ask a question about a friend's suburban... His brake lines were rusted off so I offered to replace them before I had looked at it, I kinda regret that now but they are all replaced with copper lines now, the problem is that I am a little unsure about the "plumbing" to the ABS unit, the rear brakes was easy(only one pipe) but the front ones are the problem, we disconnected and pulled it all and now I'm worried that I might have switched one of the front caliper lines with one for the master cylinder, does anyone here know exactly which outlet on the ABS unit goes where or could make a small sketch of what it's supposed to be?


Thanks in advance, any info will help...(except for the local swedish GM dealership which couldn't answer if it was a car, truck or a goose)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I purchased a set of the Russell SS braided lines for my 2004 Chevy Tahoe ($134), and had a trusted local Ma & Pa shop install them all (5 hoses) and their labor bill came to $65 (1 hr labor & rack charge). This price included bleeding the brakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I purchased a set of the Russell SS braided lines for my 2004 Chevy Tahoe ($134), and had a trusted local Ma & Pa shop install them all (5 hoses) and their labor bill came to $65 (1 hr labor & rack charge). This price included bleeding the brakes.


Replacing the flexible lines is a walk in the park. What is at issue here is corrosion leading to bursting of the hard lines (rigid tubing) of the hydraulic system. In my entire life (71 years) I've never had a brake line fail until recently. I understand that other tubing - fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, etc. is also corroding prematurely on these trucks.


My personal vehicle is a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab Short Bed 4x4. I bought it new. Since I'm retired and like staying at home, I don't drive it much, particularly in the winter here in NJ. Last week my odometer reached 42,000 miles. The day before Halloween I had to go out to buy treats for the kids. On returning home, while maneuvering my Sierra to park it in my driveway, my brake pedal went soft and oozed floorward. At the same time, I noticed something like steam coming out from under the hood. On investigation I found that a rusted brake line clipped to the top of the chassis had sprung a leak, and was spraying brake fluid onto the hot exhaust manifold.


I understand that these lines are not available as replacement parts from GM. They must be fabricated by the dealership mechanics. The hours required to do this not only make the job very expensive but also introduces the potential for TIF (Technician Induced Failure).


Steel tubing fittings threaded into alloy components can be a real challenge to remove without ruining the component. And the dealer will use the same steel tubing as the original, meaning that you can look forward to it rusting through again.


A complete set of brake tubing in stainless steel can be purchased for about $330. But the labor necessary to install even these pre-bent tubes will still be considerable.


To say that I am disappointed with General Motors would be an understatement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just had the same issue. It is very alarming to be driving in traffic and suddenly finding your brake pedal traveling almost to the floor as you try to stop 6000 pounds of steel moving at 50 mph. I had just enough pedal (about 1/2" off the floor) to be able to drive home and then to the dealership the next morning.

My 2005 Duramax Crew Cab has 152000 miles on it and, honestly, other than batteries, brakes and tires this is the first real "repair" I've needed to do, so I'm not complaining too much.

But it did cost $1500 for replacement of all the brake lines by the dealership. One of them had rusted through and the others all showed lots of rust. This included the brake flush. Parts cost was minimal, about $250 for fluid, 27 feet of copper alloy brake line and a few fittings. Most of the cost was labor since the lines needed to be customer fitted.

Not much else you can do!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Henry L
      2020 Silverado 2500, have taken this truck to two different GM dealers and they cannot find an issue. At the at the 7-pin plug when the manual gain is depressed at 100%, it only puts out 7 volts. Need 12 to lock up brakes. Cannot properly set up my gain when hooked to trailer before towing. Dealership has replaced fuse block brake controller and I had them change out the plug on the bumper. Still the same. At neither dealership have they been able to give me voltage going in the controller and coming out. One even said they can't put a volt meter on it. I believe it's a wire somewhere. But due to my health issues I cannot physically work on my truck. I'm probably going to end up taking it to an auto electrician. Any thoughts!
    • By BoyBlue22
      Hey all!  I'm the proud owner of our 1st brand-new vehicle ever! this '22 Silverado HD High County is a game-changer for pulling our new camper trailer! I recently retired and found this beauty on a dealer lot near me!
      So... as per usual with my vehicles, I really enjoy there look of nice clean, glossy calipers peaking from behind the rims!  These wheels are not as open-spoked as others I've done, but still look great, especially when they turning miles not the highway!  I always use the brush-on G2 caliper paint.  The stuff is incredible! Here's a couple pictures in process and afterwards...

    • By Snake River Wraps
      2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD
      Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
    • By Jason Fowler
      I am new to the forum here and I apologize if this has been asked prior, I tried searching, but came up empty.  
      I have a 2020 Sierra 2500 Denali and for the past 5k miles or so I have had noise in the rear.  I learned there was a safety bulletin on the rear brakes due to noise, but because I was out of the B2B warranty and it was not covered and would be an out of pocket expense.  With my son in the business can do the work, so I went ahead and ordered and paid for a set of brake pads and now have been waiting for almost 3 weeks.  The dealer told me that GM is not releasing the pads (I suspect unless the dealer is doing the work) and that they have no expected date of delivery.  
      I'd like to stay with OEM, any recommendations on where I can locate a set would be greatly appreciated.  Or if anyone has a recommendation on a good aftermarket set of pads, that would be appreciated as well.  
      Rotars are no problem, I have them, just waiting on the pads.  
    • By NorthIdahoTexan
      Experienced a one-off braking issue while descending a 7% grade. Had driven ~100 miles, stopping as needed with no issues. Began descending about 3 miles of maximum 7% grade touching the brakes infrequently as my 2018 Silverado 2500HD Duramax does a great job of reducing speed when off the petal. No towing selector, downshifting, no engine brake engaged. I’m just about to level ground, slowly apply my brakes and HELLO! Front-end/wheels start shaking like I’m about to throw a wheel. I feather braked to a stop on a side street, checked for play in the wheels and nothing evident. Continued another 120 miles, up hill/down hill, two 9% grades and only one instance of a very light wobble.
      Suggestions/similar situations?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Lance Freeman
    Newest Member
    Lance Freeman

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.