Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Rough Country 3.5 inch suspension lift. Tires are 305/70r17 BF Goodrich Mud-terrains. Wheels are Dick Cepek 17x9 with -12 offset. Minimal rubbing under full lock.

post-132849-0-62270900-1407196812_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-47260600-1407196820_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-77457100-1407196834_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-62270900-1407196812_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-47260600-1407196820_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-77457100-1407196834_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-62270900-1407196812_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-47260600-1407196820_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-77457100-1407196834_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-62270900-1407196812_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-47260600-1407196820_thumb.jpg

post-132849-0-77457100-1407196834_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Just got a question for all you lifted guys do you still have the problems that are described in the "Shake or vibration" thread in the problem section?

 

My Trail Grapplers hum like hell and vibrate the wheel around 40-50mph and sometimes while braking after i did the Zone 6.5" kit. It isn't as bad when the tires are cold and the psi is down. When they heat up on a hot day the issue kicks in. I am going to have them check my alignment again, but I already decided to move to the Open County ATs and have them on order.

Posted

 

My Trail Grapplers hum like hell and vibrate the wheel around 40-50mph and sometimes while braking after i did the Zone 6.5" kit. It isn't as bad when the tires are cold and the psi is down. When they heat up on a hot day the issue kicks in. I am going to have them check my alignment again, but I already decided to move to the Open County ATs and have them on order.

 

That's weird youre having those issues with the trail grapplers because mine hum very little out of all the mud tires I've owed and no vibration what so ever and ride just like my stock tires did except at coming to a stop and going from a dead stop you can feel the knobs in the tires

Posted

 

That's weird youre having those issues with the trail grapplers because mine hum very little out of all the mud tires I've owed and no vibration what so ever and ride just like my stock tires did except at coming to a stop and going from a dead stop you can feel the knobs in the tires

 

It's got to be the alignment then unless there is something not right with the lift install. I didn't experience anything with them before the lift other than what you mentioned.

Posted

Ya nitto terra grapplers 950, 9000 miles on them.

Posted

Wish they made a 4" kit for the 2 wheel drives!

CST Suspension FTW. They have a 3.5-5" kit for the 14's

  • Like 1
Posted

CST Suspension FTW. They have a 3.5-5" kit for the 14's

 

LOL @ $1,200 for a 4" lift with no shocks. For that kind of money, there's a shop here locally that will do a 6" lift WITH shocks for $1,299 INSTALLED. Or if one wanted to go with a less expensive alternative, just do a 2.5" level and a 1.5" body lift like I did and total cost is around $250.

Posted (edited)

 

LOL @ $1,200 for a 4" lift with no shocks. For that kind of money, there's a shop here locally that will do a 6" lift WITH shocks for $1,299 INSTALLED. Or if one wanted to go with a less expensive alternative, just do a 2.5" level and a 1.5" body lift like I did and total cost is around $250.

They are high but not extreme. I paid more for a Camburg 2.5" level kit on my 2013. Also you don't need shocks with that kit since it relocates the hub; the other suspension components stay the same. It all depends on what you want, if you aren't looking for performance you can do the same with a level and body lift for 350$. He was mentioning BDS, this is cheaper than BDS. You buy the coilovers then you can get the 5" and have the best of both wprlds. You get what you pay for. Edited by CAtaylor
Posted

They are high but not extreme. I paid more for a Camburg 2.5" level kit on my 2013. Also you don't need shocks with that kit since it relocates the hub; the other suspension components stay the same. It all depends on what you want, if you aren't looking for performance you can do the same with a level and body lift for 350$. He was mentioning BDS, this is cheaper than BDS. You buy the coilovers then you can get the 5" and have the best of both wprlds. You get what you pay for.

I was referring to rear shocks which the CTS kit does not include.

Posted

I was referring to rear shocks which the CTS kit does not include.

Yep, I completely jumped over that. You are correct on that one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,307 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...