Jump to content

Wheel Well Liner Install...Rugged Liner brand


Recommended Posts

Posted

Today I installed a set of wheel well liners on my white '13 2500HD 4X. These are Rugged Liner brand and run about $110 online. I paid a little more than that locally. There are a few different part numbers for the Chevy trucks and the 2500HD part number is WWGMC011HD. The kit includes the two liners, 6 push pins (3 for each side) and 8 hex head self tapping screws (4 for each side). The instructions are pretty clear and there is a You Tube video from Rugged Liner just in case you need it.

The only tools I used were a battery/op screwdriver with a 5/16" nut driver and an awl to line up the push pin holes. The liners are marked LH or RH and while they don't really tell you, I assumed the LH was the driver's side. The instructions say start on the right side but I have no idea why. The Chevy liners can be installed with the wheels on and that's what I did.

After cleaning the wheel wells I went to it. Start by slipping the liner over the tire tucking each end in as you go. Once the ends are behind the lip of the wheel well push up on the liner. Now push the top lip of the liner behind and inside the top lip of the wheel well. Be careful running your hand along the metal lip of the wheel well because it is possible to put a slice in your thumb. Now everything should be inside the wheel well and although there is a little room for movement everything is pretty snug. Install the three push pins through the existing holes in the metal lip at the top of the wheel well. If you remove the push part from the pin it's a little easier on your fingers. I used the awl here to scoot the liner a little to get the pins in. The liner has a little ledge formed near where the pins go so you can pull down on the liner while pushing up on the pin. A little pushing and pulling is required here to get the pins to seat. You'll know when they are where you want them. I installed all three pins before I pushed the locking part in.

Once those pins are locked you can see the 4 holes for the self tapping screws. Again, you have a little movement here but not much. Push the liner where you want it and install the screws through the front and rear fender supports. I could get the top two screws in with a regular sized battery/op screwdriver but the bottom two were running at too much of an angle. I did have an angle screwdriver so I used that but a smaller profile screw gun (like the guy in the video had) would work fine.

The self tapping screws are dipped in some kind of plastic coating I assume to help the seal as they are driven. You could also use nuts and bolts here since you can get to the back side of both fender supports.

That's about all there is to it...except the other side. The instructions say 15 min. to install but I must be slow because I probably had 45 min in the pair. The thickness of the plastic is about the same as the plastic on the front factory liners. I think they will hold up fine but time will tell. The liners do cover up everything that is painted and come down to the top of the frame.

The first pic is why you need these on a white truck and the second is the installed liner. Notice that the push pins are black so they do stand out a little. I hope this post is helpful.

 

Mike

post-123362-0-53407100-1374873747_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-98039600-1374873806_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-53407100-1374873747_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-98039600-1374873806_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-53407100-1374873747_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-98039600-1374873806_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-53407100-1374873747_thumb.jpg

post-123362-0-98039600-1374873806_thumb.jpg

Posted

I installed without the self tapping screws and it's been almost two years w/o any issues. Those things are so snug they are not going anywhere!

Posted

Is there any room for mud/dirt to get up between the wheel well and liners? They look great and up here in Canada might be a life saver with all the dirt and gravel roads. Only concern is mud and snow getting up there and causing the wheel well to rust out 10x as fast. Had that problem with my '05 that had a drop in plastic bed liner. Took it out before I sold the truck and the entire bed was rusted. Needless to say I put the liner back in and sold it.

Posted

Although they are snug, they are not water/air tight. It does look like they are designed to allow any water that might get behind the liner to drain out. I think a good cleaning with a power washer would probably keep everything cleaned out. They can be removed easily enough so cleaning behind them every spring might be a good idea. Not sure if you could save the plastic push pins but they can be replaced. One last note, GM sells a set that is very similar and they install in the same manner.

 

Mike

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Oh yes, someone is going to be certainly hitting up GM service/ support for a 20 year old truck.
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...