Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

 

I'm running 276/65R18 Terra Grappler G2s that the dealer put on my truck when I bought it without a level....no issues. Some are running the 275/70r18 and the 285/65R18 without a level, but that would be pushing it.

I had 285/65/18's on mine without a level and it was fine, but it was really close to having to trim some stuff.

I have 275/70/18's with a 2" level on right now and haven't had any issues.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Csjumper2003 Enthusiast

Csjumper2003

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok 17" Method MR306s wrapped with big at/ko2 285/70/17s with procomp zx2108s for what they call 2.75" of lift.

dd4c53baf5cc7fddca323a3d4495f728.jpg

5fdd224f8bf96e19bc80f19949cf32f9.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Csjumper2003
  • Like 3
Costain44 Enthusiast

Costain44

Posted
Posted

Funny, know one has tried this set up, maybe someone that has will chime in. Either way I plan on running an RTX rim, not stock. It's just it will likely be another few weeks too a month before I can post pics, I'm waiting for the spring weather too hit. Thing is I plan too purchase my set up this week.

 

Know of a guy running 2 inch on his Silverado as well with 275/65/20 and hasn't rubbed a bit since. I don't know much about this kind of thing, but figured an inch difference in diameter and half inch on the lift,things should equal out,maybe,lol

 

I'll post pics as soon as the snow goes and it's giving +8 Celsius tomorrow

Until then any info relating will be helpful.

Thanks

Funny, know one has tried this set up, maybe someone that has will chime in. Either way I plan on running an RTX rim, not stock. It's just it will likely be another few weeks too a month before I can post pics, I'm waiting for the spring weather too hit. Thing is I plan too purchase my set up this week.

 

Know of a guy running 2 inch on his Silverado as well with 275/65/20 and hasn't rubbed a bit since. I don't know much about this kind of thing, but figured an inch difference in diameter and half inch on the lift,things should equal out,maybe,lol

 

I'll post pics as soon as the snow goes and it's giving +8 Celsius tomorrow

Until then any info relating will be helpful.

Thanks

Timday03 New Member

Timday03

Posted
Posted

I finally got my 2014 last weekend and quickly realized that it needs a leveling kit. The center of the back wheel well measures 39 1/4" and the front is around 37". I'd like to find a leveling kit that doesn't mess with the back at all, anyone have any recommendations?

 

i recently just bought the 2.25 leveling kit from supreme suspensions on my 15 GMC Sierra 1500. awesome product

linkz1 Enthusiast

linkz1

Posted
Posted

Is there a thread on 14+ leveled trucks with body lifts? I thought I saw one awhile back but I can't find it now. I'm ordering my body lift kit and would like to see some pics. Which should I get? I did see the Zone 1.5" but that the only one I saw.

sjhill60 New Member

sjhill60

Posted
Posted

I have one quick question. I'm wanting to install a leveling kit on my 2014 crew cab. I'm looking at the Rough Country 2 in. because it's on sale right now.

 

My question is is that all I need to level my truck? I'm new to the truck modification world just making sure I'm doing everything right.

GooseCreekFarms Enthusiast

GooseCreekFarms

Posted
Posted

I have one quick question. I'm wanting to install a leveling kit on my 2014 crew cab. I'm looking at the Rough Country 2 in. because it's on sale right now.

 

My question is is that all I need to level my truck? I'm new to the truck modification world just making sure I'm doing everything right.

 

I have the 2 inch RC level on my truck and I sit 3/4 of an inch higher in the back than in the front. Every truck is different but I am happy with the way mine turned out. I didn't want to be super nose high every time I put something in the back or pulled a trailer so it worked out well for me. Best way to get want you want in height is to measure your wheel well height and decide how much you want it to raise the front, then go from there. (1.5, 2, 2.25, 2.5 etc.) You will also have to get a front end alignment after installing any lift to prevent premature tire wear. Here's my build, hope this helps..

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/181879-my-new-2016-gmc-sierra-ccsb-z71-slt/?view=findpost&p=1742013

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

I have one quick question. I'm wanting to install a leveling kit on my 2014 crew cab. I'm looking at the Rough Country 2 in. because it's on sale right now.

 

My question is is that all I need to level my truck? I'm new to the truck modification world just making sure I'm doing everything right.

Also make sure you get an alignment after you install the level

GooseCreekFarms Enthusiast

GooseCreekFarms

Posted
Posted

Do I want the aluminum or the steel? Any difference in one vs. the other?

 

Well the option is there depending on if you have the aluminum or steel control arms. If you have a z71 it should be aluminum control arms. If your not positive go out and take a magnet off your fridge and see if it sticks or not (will not stick to aluminum). The only difference is the length of the bolts between the two. (the bolts for the aluminum control arms are longer) Hope this helps.

DPetry94 Enthusiast

DPetry94

Posted
Posted

Anyone running the zone 2" level? I'm not sure how I feel about it not being metal. Also looking for some input on whether to go with a 2" or 1.5". I want a small rake still for when i do tow, but mostly level. From what I've read it seems like a 2" would be good, but I have also heard from some the a 2" made their truck slightly higher in the front.

SavageSierra Enthusiast

SavageSierra

Posted
Posted

I realize that this question has probably been answered in the 200+ pages of this thread but i couldn't find it in the 30+ pages i looked through.

 

I was wondering if i could run 295/55/20 toyo AT2 with fuel mavericks and 0 offset with no rubbing on my 2015 sierra crew cab with the 2 inch rough country leveling kit?

 

Or possibly the toyo MT on the same setup with no rubbing

sjhill60 New Member

sjhill60

Posted
Posted

Well the option is there depending on if you have the aluminum or steel control arms. If you have a z71 it should be aluminum control arms. If your not positive go out and take a magnet off your fridge and see if it sticks or not (will not stick to aluminum). The only difference is the length of the bolts between the two. (the bolts for the aluminum control arms are longer) Hope this helps.

 

So if I have just a regular 2wd I should get the steel?

Rgz82 New Member

Rgz82

Posted
Posted

Anyone running the zone 2" level? I'm not sure how I feel about it not being metal. Also looking for some input on whether to go with a 2" or 1.5". I want a small rake still for when i do tow, but mostly level. From what I've read it seems like a 2" would be good, but I have also heard from some the a 2" made their truck slightly higher in the front.

Zone 2" level

post-153892-0-24574400-1455765716_thumb.jpeg

post-153892-0-24574400-1455765716_thumb.jpeg

post-153892-0-24574400-1455765716_thumb.jpeg

post-153892-0-24574400-1455765716_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
    • rjgvt
      Multigate electrical problem

      By rjgvt · Posted

      There was a recall on the tailgate in general for opening on its own. Mine has a cap on it and it won’t let the tailgate open.   My tailgate has two holes in the top of the tailgate. I filled them in with silicone sealant. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...