Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

RC 2.5 comes with 2" block for back so it won't be nose high. And I had a previous 2010 gmc and ran a 2" lift and had little rubbing on 33/12.5r20 so you should be fine. Can't personally show you pictures cause I am letting my tires wear out before I blow money on new ones.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I know the 2.5 does come with a block but I would rather just keep the back stock, and would feel more comfortable with ball joints and cv axle at 2 inches max vs 2.5. Just curious if there's any merit in what the shop and also another wheel dealer told me about the 295s. Here's the difference, doesn't seem like much to me.bae03973aa295fe0534adcdd81708239.jpg Edited by MOhunter92
Posted

You are changing it by .5 inch I think if it is going to mess up the ball joints it'll do it either way

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

yeah and a 1 inch spacer provides 2 inches of lift, I would rather play it safe and go no more than 2 inches and keep the back stock. 2.5 will put it nose high

Posted

The point I am proving is with the 2.5" with the block you are lifting the front end 1.5" higher than compared to the back. Which means the ball joints will be more close to stock than just lifting the front end by 2" because it cause a greater difference in the original angles.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted

The point I am proving is with the 2.5" with the block you are lifting the front end 1.5" higher than compared to the back. Which means the ball joints will be more close to stock than just lifting the front end by 2" because it cause a greater difference in the original angles.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I don't see that, that seems like a flawed logic. the arms are still being pushed down by a bigger spacer, the back is irrelevant. that would be like saying rough countrys 3.5 inch kit is okay without new UCAs because the back gets lifted too. Everyone knows that kit destroys ball joints like no tomorrow, Ive seen it first hand.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

The point I am proving is with the 2.5" with the block you are lifting the front end 1.5" higher than compared to the back. Which means the ball joints will be more close to stock than just lifting the front end by 2" because it cause a greater difference in the original angles.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

absolutely NOT.

 

 

your logic is flawed. a 2.5" spacer kit will put the front 2.5" above STOCK ANGLES no matter how high or low the rear is. front suspension ball joints have no relativity to how the rear of the truck sits. a 2" kit will put it 2" above stock angles. theres no debating this.

Edited by Tungsten14
  • Like 1
Posted

absolutely NOT.

 

 

your logic is flawed. a 2.5" spacer kit will put the front 2.5" above STOCK ANGLES no matter how high or low the rear is. front suspension ball joints have no relativity to how the rear of the truck sits. a 2" kit will put it 2" above stock angles. theres no debating this.

Alright chill the **** out. Didn't mean to put your panties in a wad.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted

Alright chill the **** out. Didn't mean to put your panties in a wad.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

It is you that needs to chill out, he was just correcting you. He didn't insult you or yell by typing in all caps (just the two words to provide emphasis), so no need to get all rowdy because you were 100% incorrect and didn't want anyone else to mess up their truck following that logic. Do you need a tamp?

 

Tyler

  • Like 1
Posted

 

It is you that needs to chill out, he was just correcting you. He didn't insult you or yell by typing in all caps (just the two words to provide emphasis), so no need to get all rowdy because you were 100% incorrect and didn't want anyone else to mess up their truck following that logic. Do you need a tamp?

 

Tyler

What do you mean either way you are messing your truck up?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm still waiting for more people to give me some feedback about the 2.5" RC lift giving them issues. I'm leaning towards this kit, but still looking at reasons not to.

Posted

I'm still waiting for more people to give me some feedback about the 2.5" RC lift giving them issues. I'm leaning towards this kit, but still looking at reasons not to.

I installed the 2.5" rough country level. I didnt use the rear blocks though because i have a ranch hand on my truck. It still has 1/2" rake. Looks good and havent had any issues in 500 miles. I searched through every leveling kit i could find. I only went this route to be cheap and save for either a set of king shocks or maybe go with a fab tech suspension lift with fox shocks. You might look into bilstiens 5100 height adjustable shocks. They look like a good deal for all 4 corners for just under $400. I think these silverados ride like crap so i dont think you can make it any worse. I havent actually noticed a difference in ride quality.

Posted (edited)

Speaking of that, jsouth..... And to answer your questions, zback...

 

I had the 2.5" RC kit on my truck for about 15k miles. No issues and the lift was exactly what I wanted. Over time though, the ride got rougher. Pretty damn jarring over a good bump or RR tracks (I'm sure the stock Wrangler SR-As don't help either as they are garbage). Did a little research and thought I'd save a little $$$ by just replacing my rear shocks with the Bilstein 5100s to help. (I have the rear block form the kit installed as well). I couldn't believe the difference in ride just by changing the rears. Drove to work the next day, got online, and immediately ordered the 5100 front adjustables. I just put them on, on the highest setting, last weekend. Basically removed the front lower strut spacer and left the 3/8" upper spacer from the RC kit on top of the Bilsteins. Gave me right at 2.6". The ride is incredible... Feels like a Cadillac. Very responsive and smooth, yet stiff and soaks up the bumps so nicely. If that makes sense. Here's a few pics of how they look. Tires this weekend!

 

post-142607-0-22505800-1459996135_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-84884700-1459996136_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-23905300-1459996138_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-22505800-1459996135_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-84884700-1459996136_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-23905300-1459996138_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-22505800-1459996135_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-84884700-1459996136_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-23905300-1459996138_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-22505800-1459996135_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-84884700-1459996136_thumb.jpg

post-142607-0-23905300-1459996138_thumb.jpg

Edited by bwilloby46
  • Like 1
Posted

Speaking of that, jsouth..... And to answer your questions, zback...

 

I had the 2.5" RC kit on my truck for about 15k miles. No issues and the lift was exactly what I wanted. Over time though, the ride got rougher. Pretty damn jarring over a good bump or RR tracks (I'm sure the stock Wrangler SR-As don't help either as they are garbage). Did a little research and thought I'd save a little $$$ by just replacing my rear shocks with the Bilstein 5100s to help. (I have the rear block form the kit installed as well). I couldn't believe the difference in ride just by changing the rears. Drove to work the next day, got online, and immediately ordered the 5100 front adjustables. I just put them on, on the highest setting, last weekend. Basically removed the front lower strut spacer and left the 3/8" upper spacer from the RC kit on top of the Bilsteins. Gave me right at 2.6". The ride is incredible... Feels like a Cadillac. Very responsive and smooth, yet stiff and soaks up the bumps so nicely. If that makes sense. Here's a few pics of how they look. Tires this weekend!

 

 

I'm interested in the bilsteins, I hear mixed reviews about them particularly if you use them maxed out to get 2 inches of lift up front. If I want around 2 inches should I go with these or a spacer or a combo of both?

Posted

I'm interested in the bilsteins, I hear mixed reviews about them particularly if you use them maxed out to get 2 inches of lift up front. If I want around 2 inches should I go with these or a spacer or a combo of both?

 

My opinion only.... I have ran both....... The Bilstein's ride way better than the lower spacer kit I had on stock struts. Just depends on what you want really. 2" kits are around $65 from RC, I believe. (Installs in 2 hours for the novice). However, 5100 Bilstein adjustables are anywhere from $105 - $130 ea. + costs to install on stock spring. (Installation we'll say 3-4 hours counting taking the struts to a shop to have them swapped out). Either way you'll also have to pay for an alignment as any level will knock toe out of wack. Bilstein's say 1.88" at top level, but I got over 2" with them. No need for spacer with them if you just want 2".

 

Others may have a different experience than mine though. I just thought the spacer rode rougher as time went on. Hope that helps.

Posted

 

My opinion only.... I have ran both....... The Bilstein's ride way better than the lower spacer kit I had on stock struts. Just depends on what you want really. 2" kits are around $65 from RC, I believe. (Installs in 2 hours for the novice). However, 5100 Bilstein adjustables are anywhere from $105 - $130 ea. + costs to install on stock spring. (Installation we'll say 3-4 hours counting taking the struts to a shop to have them swapped out). Either way you'll also have to pay for an alignment as any level will knock toe out of wack. Bilstein's say 1.88" at top level, but I got over 2" with them. No need for spacer with them if you just want 2".

 

Others may have a different experience than mine though. I just thought the spacer rode rougher as time went on. Hope that helps.

For sure man, thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...