2014+ Leveling Kits

SuperAllTerrain · October 24, 2016

Not sure yet, I'd like to put some 33" but worried about rubbing. Going to ask the shop to see if we can figure out the largest we can go without any issues.

You be ok I'm running 305/55r20 on stock wheels and they only rub a little going up or down a driveway when tires are full lock turn

SuperAllTerrain

Bpun2016 · October 25, 2016

Has anyone done a 2" level with a 3" body lift to fit 35s? Trying to fit 35s without dropping 4k on a 4" lift kit

tyrich88 · October 26, 2016

Has anyone done a 2" level with a 3" body lift to fit 35s? Trying to fit 35s without dropping 4k on a 4" lift kit

I've seen guys on a 2" level with +18 offset wheels running 295/70/18 (which are 34+")

I also know if you get custom fenders you can fit 35s.

I wouldn't do the 3" body lift, but thats just me.

StretchASU · October 27, 2016

2016 CCSB Z71 LT

2.5" MotoFab Front
295/70R17 Toyo RT

17x8 +0 4.5"BS XD RG1's

Edited October 28, 2016 by StretchASU

jlilnc14 · October 28, 2016

My 2016 Silverado with 1.5" Rough Country leveling kit and new tire setup. 17" rims with 285/70/17 Nitto Terras. Pretty sure I could've fit 33". These are 32.75".

Asells · October 29, 2016

Has anyone installed a MotoFab 2.5" leveling kit? I bought one for my 2015 all terrain and want to install it but is it a job better left for the pros?

I have a 2" motofab. Its definitely doable on your own but imo it's better to have it done somewhere. I started to install mine but gave up and had it installed at a shop, that way the alignment is done then too. I think they charged me somewhere between $250-$350 for install and alignment, I'd have to check on that though.

StretchASU · October 29, 2016

Has anyone installed a MotoFab 2.5" leveling kit? I bought one for my 2015 all terrain and want to install it but is it a job better left for the pros?

Disclaimer: I have been wrenching on my vehicles for a long time and just about anything short of serious engine work is in my wheel house. So take my assessment with a grain of salt.

Installed the one on my truck at the top of the page the other night. Nothing other than some basic hand tools, a floor jack, hammer and some jack stands. Ratchet wrenches make the upper strut bolts a breeze. Did one side at a time. 3 hrs start to finish with a dinner break and I wasn't in a rush at all. Just go get an alignment after for $80 and save some coin on the install. Its an easy project. Have a 1/2" electric impact and you can cut some serious time out of the project.

Follow MotoFab's directions and it goes smooth.

There are a few little things that I will scrutinize about the kit, but its just nitpicky stuff. I would still recommend the kit to any K2xx owner.

1) The 2.5 kit that uses only an upper spacer is intended for you to install the strut 180* from how it is originally placed in the truck. (I assume any of their upper spacer only kits are the same) In theory this should work, but the lower shock mount is clocked about 10* to match the angle of the lower control arm at standard ride height. When you re-install the strut 180* out, the angle of the lower mount does not align with the upper and you have to push the strut back into the tower AND jack the control arm up at the same time. Kind of cumbersome, but not a big deal. Just annoying. If I did it again, I would just pull the front end apart and switch the struts left and right to solve that problem. From looking at the part numbers, there isn't anything special about valving or spring rates as far as I can tell so it shouldn't affect the truck one little bit. I could go into a whole thing about shock/strut placement and angle, but at the end of the day, for a street truck that occasionally sees some dirt, no big deal, so I wont over-complicate it for the masses.

2) The upper strut mount hardware they supply is specified as 16mm, mine was 17mm. No big deal, just a different socket.

Matt Talaska · October 30, 2016

2.5" RC Full Level

20x10 -24 Fuel Nutz

33x12.50R20 Atturo MT's

Only a very, and I mean very slight rub at full right lock in reverse. It's so minor, I'm not even going to bother with it.

Every time I see your truck I think, "That's it". No matter what part I'm looking at. Was looking at the RC 2.5" level with wheels and tires and I think you have the set up I am looking for. Now I just need to photoshop them onto my truck.

VinnyZ17 · November 1, 2016

2016 CCSB Z71 LT

2.5" MotoFab Front

295/70R17 Toyo RT

17x8 +0 4.5"BS XD RG1's

Looks good! Any rubbing???

StretchASU · November 1, 2016

Looks good! Any rubbing???

Only VERY slight rubbing of the fender liner at full lock in reverse. Not even enough to warrant ziptying the liner back until the next time I am under the truck.

bndawgs · November 1, 2016

So a leveling kit with a top and bottom spacer would be better in terms of keeping the original suspension geometry correct?

StretchASU · November 1, 2016

So a leveling kit with a top and bottom spacer would be better in terms of keeping the original suspension geometry correct?

In the end, no matter what kit, the geometry is the same as the mounting points are all retained. The design of the MotoFab kit makes it a little more cumbersome to re-install the strut if you use a top spacer only. You basically fight tension on the lower shock bushing. Not a big deal for a street truck. But that is why you see all the high end coilovers utilize a uniball style shock eye on the lower side. It just allows the strut to move more naturally rather than fighting a rubber bushing.

bndawgs · November 1, 2016

In the end, no matter what kit, the geometry is the same as the mounting points are all retained. The design of the MotoFab kit makes it a little more cumbersome to re-install the strut if you use a top spacer only. You basically fight tension on the lower shock bushing. Not a big deal for a street truck. But that is why you see all the high end coilovers utilize a uniball style shock eye on the lower side. It just allows the strut to move more naturally rather than fighting a rubber bushing.

Ok, thanks. I'd like to do a 2" lvl kit, but I don't want to cause issues later on with my ball joints or other parts wearing out prematurely because of the level.

StretchASU · November 1, 2016

Ok, thanks. I'd like to do a 2" lvl kit, but I don't want to cause issues later on with my ball joints or other parts wearing out prematurely because of the level.

Keep it under 2.5" and you're fine on stock components. The geometry really gets out of whack after you go above 2.5".