Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Not sure yet, I'd like to put some 33" but worried about rubbing. Going to ask the shop to see if we can figure out the largest we can go without any issues.

You be ok I'm running 305/55r20 on stock wheels and they only rub a little going up or down a driveway when tires are full lock turn

 

 

SuperAllTerrain

  • Like 2
Posted

Has anyone done a 2" level with a 3" body lift to fit 35s? Trying to fit 35s without dropping 4k on a 4" lift kit

I've seen guys on a 2" level with +18 offset wheels running 295/70/18 (which are 34+")

 

I also know if you get custom fenders you can fit 35s.

I wouldn't do the 3" body lift, but thats just me.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

2016 CCSB Z71 LT

2.5" MotoFab Front
295/70R17 Toyo RT

17x8 +0 4.5"BS XD RG1's

 

AAC4A884-C7E3-49BA-93AF-13EE329E56CB_zps

Edited by StretchASU
  • Like 2
Posted

My 2016 Silverado with 1.5" Rough Country leveling kit and new tire setup. 17" rims with 285/70/17 Nitto Terras. Pretty sure I could've fit 33". These are 32.75".

post-161988-0-98024300-1477678418_thumb.jpg

post-161988-0-98024300-1477678418_thumb.jpg

post-161988-0-98024300-1477678418_thumb.jpg

post-161988-0-98024300-1477678418_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone installed a MotoFab 2.5" leveling kit? I bought one for my 2015 all terrain and want to install it but is it a job better left for the pros?

I have a 2" motofab. Its definitely doable on your own but imo it's better to have it done somewhere. I started to install mine but gave up and had it installed at a shop, that way the alignment is done then too. I think they charged me somewhere between $250-$350 for install and alignment, I'd have to check on that though.

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone installed a MotoFab 2.5" leveling kit? I bought one for my 2015 all terrain and want to install it but is it a job better left for the pros?

 

Disclaimer: I have been wrenching on my vehicles for a long time and just about anything short of serious engine work is in my wheel house. So take my assessment with a grain of salt.

 

Installed the one on my truck at the top of the page the other night. Nothing other than some basic hand tools, a floor jack, hammer and some jack stands. Ratchet wrenches make the upper strut bolts a breeze. Did one side at a time. 3 hrs start to finish with a dinner break and I wasn't in a rush at all. Just go get an alignment after for $80 and save some coin on the install. Its an easy project. Have a 1/2" electric impact and you can cut some serious time out of the project.

Follow MotoFab's directions and it goes smooth.

 

There are a few little things that I will scrutinize about the kit, but its just nitpicky stuff. I would still recommend the kit to any K2xx owner.

 

1) The 2.5 kit that uses only an upper spacer is intended for you to install the strut 180* from how it is originally placed in the truck. (I assume any of their upper spacer only kits are the same) In theory this should work, but the lower shock mount is clocked about 10* to match the angle of the lower control arm at standard ride height. When you re-install the strut 180* out, the angle of the lower mount does not align with the upper and you have to push the strut back into the tower AND jack the control arm up at the same time. Kind of cumbersome, but not a big deal. Just annoying. If I did it again, I would just pull the front end apart and switch the struts left and right to solve that problem. From looking at the part numbers, there isn't anything special about valving or spring rates as far as I can tell so it shouldn't affect the truck one little bit. I could go into a whole thing about shock/strut placement and angle, but at the end of the day, for a street truck that occasionally sees some dirt, no big deal, so I wont over-complicate it for the masses.

 

2) The upper strut mount hardware they supply is specified as 16mm, mine was 17mm. No big deal, just a different socket.

 

  • Like 2
Posted

2.5" RC Full Level

20x10 -24 Fuel Nutz

33x12.50R20 Atturo MT's

 

Only a very, and I mean very slight rub at full right lock in reverse. It's so minor, I'm not even going to bother with it.

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

Every time I see your truck I think, "That's it". No matter what part I'm looking at. Was looking at the RC 2.5" level with wheels and tires and I think you have the set up I am looking for. Now I just need to photoshop them onto my truck.

  • Like 2
Posted

2016 CCSB Z71 LT

2.5" MotoFab Front

295/70R17 Toyo RT

17x8 +0 4.5"BS XD RG1's

 

AAC4A884-C7E3-49BA-93AF-13EE329E56CB_zps

Looks good! Any rubbing???

Posted

Looks good! Any rubbing???

 

Only VERY slight rubbing of the fender liner at full lock in reverse. Not even enough to warrant ziptying the liner back until the next time I am under the truck.

  • Like 1
Posted

So a leveling kit with a top and bottom spacer would be better in terms of keeping the original suspension geometry correct?

Posted

So a leveling kit with a top and bottom spacer would be better in terms of keeping the original suspension geometry correct?

In the end, no matter what kit, the geometry is the same as the mounting points are all retained. The design of the MotoFab kit makes it a little more cumbersome to re-install the strut if you use a top spacer only. You basically fight tension on the lower shock bushing. Not a big deal for a street truck. But that is why you see all the high end coilovers utilize a uniball style shock eye on the lower side. It just allows the strut to move more naturally rather than fighting a rubber bushing.

Posted

In the end, no matter what kit, the geometry is the same as the mounting points are all retained. The design of the MotoFab kit makes it a little more cumbersome to re-install the strut if you use a top spacer only. You basically fight tension on the lower shock bushing. Not a big deal for a street truck. But that is why you see all the high end coilovers utilize a uniball style shock eye on the lower side. It just allows the strut to move more naturally rather than fighting a rubber bushing.

 

Ok, thanks. I'd like to do a 2" lvl kit, but I don't want to cause issues later on with my ball joints or other parts wearing out prematurely because of the level.

Posted

 

Ok, thanks. I'd like to do a 2" lvl kit, but I don't want to cause issues later on with my ball joints or other parts wearing out prematurely because of the level.

Keep it under 2.5" and you're fine on stock components. The geometry really gets out of whack after you go above 2.5".

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone running the 2" BDS leveling kit? customer at my buddy's shop recommended it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,266 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...