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Posted

I have a 2016 silverado 1500 4x4 Z71 Crew Cab 5.3 with a lift/level kit, 2.75" block on struts up front and added leaf spring in the rear. Also has an aftermarket front bumper (not sure if that matter much for clearance issues as it seems most issues occur on the cab side of the fender) current tires are 285/65r18 Kelly Safari TSRs. Due for a new set of shoes here soon and I'm curious if I would be able to clear a 295/70r18 Cooper Evolution A/T..specs on the Coopers say it is a 12.0" wide and 34.3" tall tire. I would be adding 2" KSP Hubcentric wheel spacers on my stock 18s. Thanks in advance for any help! Looking to order new tires within the next 2 weeks here.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPg5j2OoZvI9TsT7rXTzGhS-WB-_SehFNB-SC17

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipP5aumkLVL3ahqFSDY76mRE4KpnT_7KbAk2f01H

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMPsdsLkgU9AENV4oIzVqKC2JS6NFkLk86v4rYw

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Sometimes in life - you just gotta send it.....

 

2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 Z71 with newly installed Toyo Open Country AT3 35x11.5r20s on just a 2.5" RC Level.  Yea I said it - just the level - no RUB.  And no difference in ride quality on highway or just intermediate roads.  AT3s run smooth and are way quieter than Ridge Grapplers. 

 

 

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  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 2/5/2022 at 4:24 PM, Jake2017AT said:

Figured I’d share. 2.5” Rough Country level and 285/60/20 Toyo AT3’s. Love this look!B67A4FB4-027B-49C7-BA80-B95F21DD96C8.thumb.jpeg.454d046a3cd431da17e4daebd20ca500.jpeg

is this the RC 2.5 front only or rear too? Truck looks great!!

Posted

this would be front only

On 7/2/2022 at 6:18 PM, Pig Sooie 4 said:

is this the RC 2.5 front only or rear too? Truck looks great!!

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

This is my ‘17 Sierra Z71 SLT crew short bed. 2” HaloLifts coilovers in the front with their rear shocks on a stock block.  I have the +1” block if I do ever decide to throw a shell on the back or find myself hauling more. Running 275/70R18 ko2s on 18” Raceline 946 Boost wheel with -12 offset.  Really wanting to go 295/70 on my next set of tires but really don’t want to worry about having to trim anything. Also have the Diablo tuner set to their 87+ tune. I think the next item on my list will be to replace my aluminum running boards with Go Rhino RB 20 running boards, probably sometime in the spring. 

6FC81CEE-C42F-45D2-9B1C-99692160F45C.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted

I need to take some pics.

 

I finally got around to putting on the Bilstein 5100s fronts and rears. I adjusted the front to the highest setting, 1.85”. I’m running Nitto Recon Grapplers and I still have some rubbing at full lock on the UCAs, especially in reverse.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Bought this truck a month ago

Installed rc 2.5 level with m1 monotube shocks all around.

Put on 265 70 17s ridge grapples to replace the stock 20s.

20230519_141129.jpg

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Fuel Lockdown wheels 20x9

LT295/60R20 NIT Recon Grappler A/T

Added 1 inch front spacer to front King Racing shocks and level as can be, rides nice. 

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  • Like 3
  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

IMG_0388.thumb.jpeg.f2416194efa390577f81d10b92982528.jpegI have a 2018 Silverado LT which had a 3” rake and used a 2” front end lift by Moto Fab. I run stock 17 wheels and Yokohama X-AT 265/70R17 OW:10.50.

Next tire change I will go to 275/70.

 

Edited by David 2018 Chevsil
  • Like 2
  • 7 months later...
Posted

'14 Silverado LT with 2" RC leveling kit on the front. Has 18X9 +18 Ultra Motorsport Warlock rims with Toyo Open Country 285/65/18. No rubs and did not rub without the level kit.

 

Owned this truck for 8-9 yrs, then traded in 2022.

Custom Rims From Silverado E.jpg

Custom Rims From Silverado D.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hello everyone, I have a 2018 Silverado Ltz Z71. Currently has stock 20s on it. I have a 2.5 Inch leveling kit with add a leaf in the rear form Auto Spring, as well ordered a set of Bilstein 5100 for the front  to swap out. Id like to run a set of Trail boss rims on my truck, preferably 18s but would run the 20s if i have to. I have had a few people recommend me to run new upper control arms due to the lift. Anyone have recommendations on Ucas? I'm planning on running 275/70r18 or 275/60r20 depending on rim size. I'm relatively new to backspacing/offset stuff. Looking at different Uca's most say you cant run stock rims with some others make no mention. Thanks for the help everyone. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey all, I've got a 2015 LTZ 4x4 and have been running a Readylift 2.25" level with the top and bottom spacers. Just ordered the Eibach pro kit this morning after finding a leaky shock. I'll be leaving the clip on the lowest setting for 2.5" and am looking at/wondering if I should also do UCA's. I'd like to improve the ride but more so want to keep my angles right and help preserve ball joints. I've got stock 20" wheels with 305/55 and know I'll more than likely have to throw in a 1" spacer until I get new wheels/tires to clear almost any of them. I've really been looking at Kryptonite and Readylift, also Motofab/KSP/Cognito but the Cognito instructions look like a warning label with max shock measurement, limiting straps, trimming shock tower etc. just so much more than the other companies for whatever reason. I don't care about the price just want the right one that's going to last, if that's a Motofab with Moog's in it, so be it. Any experience greatly appreciated, TIA. 

Posted

I have the Eibach Pro Truck stage 1 kit on my truck. I have roughly 50k miles on them with the stock aluminum UCA and my ball joints are still tight at 104k miles. 
When/ if my upper ball joints need replacing I plan to go with the Superlift UCAs. They are an aluminum arm similar to my factory arms but with increased ball joint angle. Be careful with some of the fabricated arms. They won’t clear positive offset wheels. 

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    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
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    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
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