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2014+ Leveling Kits


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On 5/17/2020 at 1:36 PM, Pig Sooie 4 said:

2018 Chevrolet Silverado LTZ with 295/55/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and a 2 inch rough country leveling kit. I know a lot of people like aftermarket wheels but i love the stock LTZ 20s. Thinking about possibly doing the 2.5 kit on the front and the 1 inch block in the rear.

Truck 2.jpg

How have you liked the 2" rough country kit long term? Any issues/complaints? I have same truck color and all and was thinking about the RC 2" leveling kit and Nitto Terra Grapplers but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Thanks!

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23 hours ago, Marshall_13 said:

How have you liked the 2" rough country kit long term? Any issues/complaints? I have same truck color and all and was thinking about the RC 2" leveling kit and Nitto Terra Grapplers but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. Thanks!

I haven't had any problems. I ran a 2 inch level kit on my last truck and never had problems. At times i wish i would have went went the 2.5 inch kit but i am fine with this one. A lot of people think 2 inches should be the max though. What size tires do you plan on running? I thought about 285/60/20 for my next ones. I am fine with a little bit of rub. Put some pictures on here when yours is complete!

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2 hours ago, Pig Sooie 4 said:

I haven't had any problems. I ran a 2 inch level kit on my last truck and never had problems. At times i wish i would have went went the 2.5 inch kit but i am fine with this one. A lot of people think 2 inches should be the max though. What size tires do you plan on running? I thought about 285/60/20 for my next ones. I am fine with a little bit of rub. Put some pictures on here when yours is complete!

I looked heavily into the 2.5" as well but dont want the extra stress on the suspension components etc. I also like the little bit of rake the 2" has. Ive been looking at 275/65/20 with the stock rims as I really like the looks of them as well. Im also purchasing bilstein 5100 shocks and struts to replace the stock ones. I will definitely post pics after I get everything installed, I appreciate the feedback!

 

Off topic but does your silverado have the 5.3L with the 6 speed? If so I have a few questions regarding some mechanical issues ive been having with mine and would like to see if other owners are having similar issues. I can send a direct message too so I don't mess up this thread with off topic questions if that's cool with you.

 

Thanks!

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I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado LT currently running factory 265/65/r18. I just ordered a 2" leveling kit for the front. I really want to keep my factory 18" wheels and want to know what tire size I can run after I install the 2" level on the front. Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a readylift 2.25 with the UCA in my 2016. I only have 21k miles on it and the ball joints already have tons of play. I have not been able to find a MOOG direct replacement. Readylift if sending me new ones for free but i mean.... id hate to put them in and change them again at 65k miles. MOOG K6540 fits but the taper is too small. I would need sleeves... sigh. Have any of you had luck with other brand control arms? I don't mind spending the extra money if it means not changing ball joints every 20k.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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Lots of different opinions on here. Some rub, some do not. Here’s my story. My previous truck, before it got written off was a 15 Sierra all terrain dblcab. It had a 2.25 ready lift in the front and a 3” block in the rear, sitting on 275/65-20 ko2. No issues with rubbing but rode rough with the e rated tires. Present truck is a 19 limited dblcab. It came stock with a pretty good factory rake. I installed the ready lift 2.25 kit 66-3086 which included the new a arms and ran the same e rated and size ko2. Not only did it ride rough but now rubs the a arm at full lock. Sold the tires and installed p rated duratracs in a smaller 275/60-20 size. The ride improved significantly but it still rubs the a arm. How? Other guys are running a little wider tire with no issues or so they say. Note I’m running the factory wheels on both trucks. Contacted ready lift and they said to run spacers, 1/2”. Don’t really want to install spacers. I may remove the lift all together. Does this make sense to you guys?

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Iceonly ,

Did ready lift verify that you bought the correct kit for your truck?

Gm has used 3 different upper control arms on these trucks. 

The reason i would think it is the wrong kit would be the tire size change is neglible. 

Obviously this a design issue as you replaced the a arm.

The good news here is that you should be able to leave those spacers in there and just change back to the factory arm and have no more issue. 

All the new a arm does is change the ball joint angle.  So that the ball joint doesnt wear out quickly. 

 

My previous generation gmc ran a 2 inch level with significantly larger duratracs o er 60k with no issue on factory a arms.

 

My currenty truck had a two inch level for 1 year and no runs a 5 inch lift for the past 5 years . No ball joint issue. Factory control  arms. 

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On 12/13/2020 at 2:09 PM, acinquegrana said:

I have a readylift 2.25 with the UCA in my 2016. I only have 21k miles on it and the ball joints already have tons of play. I have not been able to find a MOOG direct replacement. Readylift if sending me new ones for free but i mean.... id hate to put them in and change them again at 65k miles. MOOG K6540 fits but the taper is too small. I would need sleeves... sigh. Have any of you had luck with other brand control arms? I don't mind spending the extra money if it means not changing ball joints every 20k.

Thanks

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Readylift changes the angle of the a arm. Which bis supposed to change angle and give you better life. Better it does not affect ride . Height. The moog will would be at a factory angle. 

Cognito is supposed to make top notch products. Uniball joints are the way to go but they are pricey. 

Rough country also make arms for lifted trucks as due most of the lift companies. 

I would give you the same advice i gave the last guy.

Put the factory control arms back on and give them a try. 

The good thing is control arms are easy to change. 

Although you shoukd have it realigned if changing control arm styles

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1 hour ago, mrhonestlyinsane said:

Iceonly ,

Did ready lift verify that you bought the correct kit for your truck?

Gm has used 3 different upper control arms on these trucks. 

The reason i would think it is the wrong kit would be the tire size change is neglible. 

Obviously this a design issue as you replaced the a arm.

The good news here is that you should be able to leave those spacers in there and just change back to the factory arm and have no more issue. 

All the new a arm does is change the ball joint angle.  So that the ball joint doesnt wear out quickly. 

 

My previous generation gmc ran a 2 inch level with significantly larger duratracs o er 60k with no issue on factory a arms.

 

My currenty truck had a two inch level for 1 year and no runs a 5 inch lift for the past 5 years . No ball joint issue. Factory control  arms. 

Hey. I’m pretty sure it’s the right kit. The only reason that I changed the a arms is because my truck now has stamped steel ones. My 15 had aluminum ones. I removed the bottom spacer this morning to bring the front end down 3/4” and next week I will put the factory a arms back on. They are smaller in diameter than the ready lift ones so I’m pretty sure that will solve my rubbing issues. Really don’t want to add 1/2” spacers.

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So I read from page 450 to this last one. I have a 2018 1500 with factory 18” wheels with obviously stamped UCA’s. I’m looking for a little beefier look but don’t want a lift. I’m torn between the bilstein 5100s all around at the top setting and a bigger lock in the rear (for 1” of lift in the rear). The Eibach pro leveling kit. (Possibly with springs but heard it tides rougher with the pro springs vs stock) and a bigger block in rear (again to get 1” higher). Or possibly the ready lift 2.25” leveling kit and again a bigger rear block. I don’t want the truck to ride like crap my questions are with bilstein and the eibach kit will I still need aftermarket UCAs with bigger tires? And what would be a better tire to run without rubbing 285/65-18 or 275/70-18. Or am I missing a tire size. I don’t want to worry about it rubbing I understand there are a lot of issues with rubbing with factory wheels but I really like my stock wheels and don’t want to have to replace them. So what would you guys recommend between the 3 and tire size? UCA replacement. I saw a lot of talk about 20” factory wheels but not 18”

221B40C5-B496-474D-9ABF-152FE1B4FF0A.jpeg

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I’ve had a 2” RC level on my 2016 silverado basically since I bought it (4 1/2 years and ~80k miles later)...I am looking to add the Eibach pro truck level/lift kit...(springs and struts, front and back)... it advertises as a 2.5” lift in the front... I know that is the break point if you will for after market UCAs being recommended/required... I’ve seen that RC has a new(ish) forged set... that seem well better than some of their older stuff... what recommendations do you have for good value (not super expensive) UCA that work without spacers and factory wheels for a 2.5” ‘lift’?

Edited by spenpet
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Hey guys,

 

I just ordered my Eibach Pro truck Lift kit and plan on running it on the bottom setting to give me 2.5” lift up front and I’m going to replace the stock blocks with a 2in Motofab block. Also throwing on the RC Forged upper control arms and new Moog outer tie rod ends. 
 

I’m not sure what wheel and tire to go with and looking for some help... I love the bronze wheel look but not sure how it will look on my Iridium Metallic with chrome front end. Otherwise I was going to play it safe with some black milled Icon Alloys. Looking at either the 285/70r17 Kenda Klevars or 285/75r17 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT. Not sure on Tire size either. 
 

Drop some photos of the Bronze wheel look! Much appreciated.

52F720E8-E460-466E-85B9-5F118541F788.png

994AB86D-A4D0-46B2-B6F3-E961CE994B59.png

Edited by JsierraZ71
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Hey guys,
 
I just ordered my Eibach Pro truck Lift kit and plan on running it on the bottom setting to give me 2.5” lift up front and I’m going to replace the stock blocks with a 2in Motofab block. Also throwing on the RC Forged upper control arms and new Moog outer tie rod ends. 
 
I’m not sure what wheel and tire to go with and looking for some help... I love the bronze wheel look but not sure how it will look on my Iridium Metallic with chrome front end. Otherwise I was going to play it safe with some black milled Icon Alloys. Looking at either the 285/70r17 Kenda Klevars or 285/75r17 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT. Not sure on Tire size either. 
 
Drop some photos of the Bronze wheel look! Much appreciated.
52F720E8-E460-466E-85B9-5F118541F788.thumb.png.f2ac13926589017df86a2338b2317d8a.png
994AB86D-A4D0-46B2-B6F3-E961CE994B59.thumb.png.3670363e73dd527b223740219bf60881.png

It’s potato quality but here’s an example -

https://www.methodracewheels.com/pages/chevy-wheels

I’d go with bronze and the 285/75/17 coopers, I love mine. Check out my build thread for pics


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2 hours ago, jgraves13 said:


It’s potato quality but here’s an example -

https://www.methodracewheels.com/pages/chevy-wheels

I’d go with bronze and the 285/75/17 coopers, I love mine. Check out my build thread for pics


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found a picture from SDHQ’s website. Saw you have their skid plates. Pretty badass! Love the Bronze wheel look too. I’ll post pictures of mine once I finish installing everything. 
 

How many miles do you have on your Coopers? And how have they been off-road for you?

E0874F8B-0980-47DA-891E-71BB0EF4071B.jpeg

78D45E27-8016-44D7-91A1-157A6B69BF48.jpeg

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