Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
My 2018 Sierra has a 2.5 inch level and I’m running 315/70/r17 (metric size of 35/12.5) with very and I mean very little rub on the felt liner on the back side of the wheel well. 

Are you on stock wheels? Got any pics?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
54 minutes ago, jimbrown1 said:

Where did you read that?

Tire Rack has it in they’re description 

Posted
2 hours ago, RJ3 said:

Tire Rack has it in they’re description 

I found that on the Ready Lift website as well.  I'm not sure why they would state that, unless it has something to do with shock travel.  

Posted
On 7/31/2020 at 7:49 AM, Built2crash said:

Just to contribute to the post, my experience with leveling kits:

 

My 2013 Silverado had a 2" RC Leveling kit in it and I ran 32.5" BFG TKO2, all other components were stock.  I ran that truck for 50K miles before I upgraded. I had zero problems with that setup.

 

I just recently put an Eibach Pro Level kit in my 2016 GMC Sierra. that kit includes 4 new shocks and spring up front. I'm running that on the 2.5" lift setting. I have stock 18" rims with 285/65/18 BFG TAKO2 on it (32.5" tire). I'm sure I can fit 33" tires on it no problem and I'm pretty sure I could fit 33.5" with no or maybe minor trim. Also, all other components are stock. Will post pictures soon.

 

My brother in law has a 2018 sierra we put a 2" RC spacer in it with 33.5" BFG TAKO2's, did the nor Cal mod on it and they fit fine. We actually did the Nor Cal mod prior to testing the tires out so I cant say if they would have rubbed without the mod or not, I think they would have rubbed just eyeballing it.

 

In all these cases the ride quality was basically the same with the level kits installed, My eibach setup is better ride quality.

 

Conclusion: IMO and as others have said, stay at 3" or less for a level to save your components. Otherwise, spend the money and go 5" or 6" lift kit, this allows you to run a larger tire and saves your components and ride quality.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

 

19 hours ago, Danyoda said:

My 2018 Sierra has a 2.5 inch level and I’m running 315/70/r17 (metric size of 35/12.5) with very and I mean very little rub on the felt liner on the back side of the wheel well. 

Thank you both for the info! Very helpful as I work out what I want to do.

Posted

I have a new 19 Sierra dblcab 1500 limited. I plan on installing a 2.25 leveling kit with 3” rear block on it and run 275/65-20 ko2. I had this same setup on my 15 all terrain with zero issues for over a 100k. Now readylift’s kit includes upper control arms. They say on their website that I should replace the stamped steel ones with theirs. Anybody know why? Never changed them on my 15.

Thx

Posted
I have a new 19 Sierra dblcab 1500 limited. I plan on installing a 2.25 leveling kit with 3” rear block on it and run 275/65-20 ko2. I had this same setup on my 15 all terrain with zero issues for over a 100k. Now readylift’s kit includes upper control arms. They say on their website that I should replace the stamped steel ones with theirs. Anybody know why? Never changed them on my 15.
Thx
The older UCAs were compatible the stamped steel UCAs will rub the tires on anything bigger than stock.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Posted

The thing is I won’t be running a wider tire. Stock on there now is a 275/55-20 and I’m just going taller

Posted
The thing is I won’t be running a wider tire. Stock on there now is a 275/55-20 and I’m just going taller
I think they also correct angles or improve on them as well, the stamped steel UCAs are garbage, another cost cutting measure I'm betting.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Posted

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Posted
Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, RJ3 said:

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

 

No shame in replacing the Ranchos.  I did the same thing as Langston1726 except I went with the 5100 struts in front to replace the stock Ranchos and already had a Rugged Off Road bottom strut spacer in place.  Ride is great.  Much better than with the Ranchos. 

Posted
1 hour ago, langston1726 said:


Not at all. I swapped my Ranchos out for some Bilstein 5100s. Immediately felt more controlled especially going around rough corners. The truck didn’t feel like is was going shimmy off the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And the 5100’s won’t jack up the rear, nor any shock shouldn’t have ride height difference? 

Posted
And the 5100’s won’t jack up the rear, nor any shock shouldn’t have ride height difference? 

 

Nope. They have a range of 0-1” lift I believe

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
19 hours ago, RJ3 said:

Any shame in replacing only the rear shocks for now ? So undecided on a leveling kit, and really hate the red shock boot with an all blue truck....

you'll get a lot of recommendations for Bilstiens...i would also recommend you check out Eibach...they are American made and if/when you get to the front their adjustable front shocks go a little higher than bilstiens and will be closer to true level...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 427 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...