Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

On the headlight aiming topic, all you need to do before getting lifted is close your garage door, mark off where your front wheels are with tape on the driveway and turn the lights on. Again with tape, follow the cutoff line on your garage door. Once lifted, put the truck back into the same spot and adjust one of the headlights back down to the original marking, counting the number of turns and then apply the same number of turns to the other side or until cutoffs match.

Done and done.

Edited by Horacio
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

*Edit nevermind! Finding plenty of info in this thread.

Edited by Dropsix
Posted

*Edit nevermind! Finding plenty of info in this thread.

Yes, I do, as do many others here. This is the kit I have on a Crew with a standard box. There is also a difference between the Z71 package and Non Z71 equipped trucks so if you have questions just ask.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, I do, as do many others here. This is the kit I have on a Crew with a standard box. There is also a difference between the Z71 package and Non Z71 equipped trucks so if you have questions just ask.

 

 

I have an all terrain with the Z71, so would the Rough Country 2.5" kit with the 2" blocks not work?

Posted

 

 

I have an all terrain with the Z71, so would the Rough Country 2.5" kit with the 2" blocks not work?

I believe the difference is in how much the kit will actually raise the truck. If I remember correctly the shocks on the Z71 are different and the front is a tad higher compared to the LT. So the starting height is different.

Not having a Z71 doesn't give me the personal knowledge of this but it seems it was covered somewhere in the100 plus pages in this thread.

Anyone with a Z71 know the difference please chime in...

But, to answer your question, yes the kit should work. RC customer service may also be able to answer this question.

  • Like 1
Posted

I believe the difference is in how much the kit will actually raise the truck. If I remember correctly the shocks on the Z71 are different and the front is a tad higher compared to the LT. So the starting height is different.

Not having a Z71 doesn't give me the personal knowledge of this but it seems it was covered somewhere in the100 plus pages in this thread.

Anyone with a Z71 know the difference please chime in...

But, to answer your question, yes the kit should work. RC customer service may also be able to answer this question.

 

Yeah, fair enough. I'll follow up with them and then post my findings here!

 

Thx dude

Posted

Just spoke with a guy at RC and there are no compatibility issues with the Z71

Posted

Hey guys, i've been through this thread once or twice a while back, looking for quick confirmation whether I'll be able to fit 33's + 20's on a 2 inch leveled 2014 with minor or zero modification, if not, would stepping up to 3in do the trick? Not 100% happy with the 2 inches anyway

Posted (edited)

I wouldn't go true 3" without new upper control arms. Even at 2.5 I'm debating new UCAs.

Edited by 5RWill
Posted

I wouldn't go true 3" without new upper control arms. Even at 2.5 I'm debating new UCAs.

 

Out of concern for the ball joints or because you want to go off road?

Posted

Ball joints and the angle. If you look at the stock UCAs at 2.5 they look like they're taking about all they can.

Posted

Ive looked through the whole thread, was wondering if anyone was running 295/55/20 with a 2" leveling kit with either +14 or 1 offset.

Posted

Ive looked through the whole thread, was wondering if anyone was running 295/55/20 with a 2" leveling kit with either +14 or 1 offset.

 

 

Not sure about a 2" level but AZGMCZ71Leveled is running 295/55/20 on Fuel Maverick 20x9 +14 offset and a 2.5" RCX level

Posted

Is anyone running RC 2.5" with 295/70/18 (34.25x11.6) or equivalent? If so please list your wheel specs, and tire brand, and/or fitment issues.



I really want to go a little bigger than 33, seeing as it's only a 1.5" increase but if thats all I can fit I'll stick to 275/70/18 and still have an acceptable MPG.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
    • This is going to take allot of Assembly    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...