Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted

OK so to the untrained eye not much difference in appearance. But for myself it still looks great but I can tell the difference. Besides the rubbing, going to the BFG from the Toyo open country extreme, not near the highway road noise with the BFG's. Also have better steering response and less tire sway. It might have been possible to stay in that 295/55 size, but would have to have multiple tire combination to see as every tire width spec are different. In the 295/55 r20 Toyo only made the extreme.... My friend at the Chevy dealer where I got both sets of tire is the best. He let me drive a week on the Toyo an then gave me full credit towards the BFG tire and even a little refund.....

 

Very nice of your friend, I prefer toyo over bfg though, I know they have a solid following but I just don't have good experience with their products. I personally like the way the 285/55 looks on these trucks leveled, people stuff way too big tires in them and it looks dumb. 295/55 is the biggest I'd be comfortable going but I'll probably just go with 285/55

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

Sent from my treestand using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

My understanding is that by raising the perch you are pre-loading the spring which in turn is creating lift. The end result is you have increased the distance between the top mount of the strut and the bottom mount. The angles of your control arms etc. will be impacted in the same manner as a spacer of equal lift height. I don't have any special expertise in this area, I'm simply sharing my understanding from the reading i have done. Money is the main reason I chose a spacer over Bilsteins! There are many who report a rougher ride from Bilsteins at max height and there are those that report a rough ride from 2" leveling spacers. The research I have done favors no noticeable negative impact in ride quality from either method.

 

That is not true. The Bilstein preloads the spring and there are countless reports of a rougher ride (which makes sense and is known) when they are all the way up. Spacers don't change the spring or shock at all so ride will not change. The only ride difference will be the bottoming out of either the ball joints or bump stops since they are extended over large bumps, but the rebound and absorption characteristics won't change.

 

One plus is the shock of the bilstein and it may help off set some of the harsher ride of the preload but not all since they still have to set up the shock to work at stock height well in addition to the preloaded lifted height.

 

Either way the bilsteins will ride rougher in certain instances and a spacer (as long as it isn't preload) won't ride any different in most all instances.

 

Tyler

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

 

That is not true. The Bilstein preloads the spring and there are countless reports of a rougher ride (which makes sense and is known) when they are all the way up. Spacers don't change the spring or shock at all so ride will not change. The only ride difference will be the bottoming out of either the ball joints or bump stops since they are extended over large bumps, but the rebound and absorption characteristics won't change.

 

One plus is the shock of the bilstein and it may help off set some of the harsher ride of the preload but not all since they still have to set up the shock to work at stock height well in addition to the preloaded lifted height.

 

Either way the bilsteins will ride rougher in certain instances and a spacer (as long as it isn't preload) won't ride any different in most all instances.

 

Tyler

What is not true? I reported what I understood and qualified my comments by stating my lack of expertise. It appears you have information to add but I take offense to you suggesting what I am telling is an untruth (lie). Please explain what you understand as the difference between creating lift with a spacer or raising the perch.

skallywag Enthusiast

skallywag

Posted
Posted

Ok done tons of research. Want to go full lift later down the road. Still on stock sle 20s on my 2015 gmc 1500 and factory Goodyears at 30k are showing some good wear. Have the rc2.5" w/2" rear block. Looking at nitto trails on these wheels size 35x11.50r20 see a few guys doing 35x12.50r20 with levels also looking at 295/60r20 cooper stt pro and toyo at2 also 295/65r20 in the toyo at2

Any experience with these sizes. Have the front valence removed just don't want to rub metal. I do use truck Offroad lots.

bwilloby46 Enthusiast

bwilloby46

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

Ok done tons of research. Want to go full lift later down the road. Still on stock sle 20s on my 2015 gmc 1500 and factory Goodyears at 30k are showing some good wear. Have the rc2.5" w/2" rear block. Looking at nitto trails on these wheels size 35x11.50r20 see a few guys doing 35x12.50r20 with levels also looking at 295/60r20 cooper stt pro and toyo at2 also 295/65r20 in the toyo at2

Any experience with these sizes. Have the front valence removed just don't want to rub metal. I do use truck Offroad lots.

Running 295/60/20 toyo AT II extremes stock high country rims +27 on 2.5" RC/Bilstein 5100 level. Fronts just barely rub at full lock in reverse on pavement. Off-road would need to trim some inner fender well on mine but I'm solely on pavement. Probably the biggest you can go without some inner fender modification but just what I found. Others may have different experience. Hope that helps.

Edited by bwilloby46
NIXONRIDE Enthusiast

NIXONRIDE

Posted
Posted

Yeah I am not sure u will be able to do any width of 35's on just a level...I have 285/55r22's in the Nitto trail grapplers which are a 34.5"x12" and I am on Bilstein 5100's all the way to the top and I had to do some trimming to the plastics and zip ties...they rub slightly on 1/4-1/ turns and pretty good when turning and going over bumps...I think a 35" would have to go on a 3" level and driving straight not to run...lol. I might be going with some fox 2.0 and cognito UCA's and lift the front closer to 3" and see where I am at but I still thing 35" are pushing it.

Oh and my wheels are a +12

skallywag Enthusiast

skallywag

Posted
Posted

Why not a 7.5? [emoji6]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man I really want to go 7" FTS and 18x12 37x13.50 but I don't want to dump $7500 haha. Then I would have to get steps!

twlander New Member

twlander

Posted
Posted

I installed the RC 2.5 leveling kit on my 2014 (front only) and looking into getting some new shoes. Is it possible to run a 285/75r18 on the factory 18s? Ive been eyeing the toyo m/t and trail grapplers. I don't mind trimming/zip tie some carpet but I prefer to not have it rub. So if anyone can shed some light that would be great

skallywag Enthusiast

skallywag

Posted
Posted

May just have to go down to a 17x9 -12 and a smaller tire to keep a wide footprint for the sand and curtains spots of mud I drive in. Maybe I can clear a 33x12.50 mud grappler without to much damage to the fenders!

JoeTrahnier Enthusiast

JoeTrahnier

Posted
Posted

I ran 275/70 18's trail grapplers on the same leveling kit, and it fill out the wheel wells so nicely

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 806 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • B07
      Anyone have a spare?

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...