Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

I ended up giving up and busting one of mine up really good with a pickle fork (was putting on new UCAs anyway).

 

I've always broke themapart with a hammer on other trucks, but couldn't get this one to budge. I let it hang for an hour after hammering. Sprayed it with penetrating fluid. Cranked the wheel back and forth. Beat on it from every direction and every height (jacked the lca up and down at various heights) and never could get it to bust loose with a hammer. The passenger one came apart much easier. Not sure why this one was so much harder.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Maybe try putting a jack under the knuckle and jack it up a little bit. Then try whacking it with a sledge.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

  • Like 1
KurtA Enthusiast

KurtA

Posted
Posted

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted

With the opposite side still up in the air with both sway bar links disconnected, you can disconnect the bottom strut bolts and loosen the top strut bolts and just about get the spacer on without compressing. I tried that, it would have worked if I would have had a second jack or a second set of hands to help compress the shock or the coil/upper arm.

  • Like 1
Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted (edited)

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

Edited by Mattvand
  • Like 1
'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

You put the bolt in from the bottom on the axle side.

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted (edited)

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Lots of persuasion! With the RC kits being polymer, once you get a corner of it started, they tap in the rest of the way fairly easily.

Edited by '17 Sierra
SDH3BLK Enthusiast

SDH3BLK

Posted
Posted

Nice setup. Love those tires! Any room for larger size?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry never saw this, I think it can squeeze 35's just fine! Masbe with some slight trimming.

raress9596 Enthusiast

raress9596

Posted
Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

  • Like 1
SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

I have heard good things about the rancho quick lift other than they get rusty fast.

I want to get them as well but not sure if I'd rather get the fox ones.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

raress9596 Enthusiast

raress9596

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblies before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Edited by raress9596
  • Like 1
Psych73 Enthusiast

Psych73

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLE and installed the Bilstein 5100's on all four corners. You don't have to change the rear shocks if you don't want to but that's up to you. You will need an alignment. The stance to perfect with an 1/8 of inch. Ride has since gotten better and more comfortable. Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblys before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Can you do measurements of the amount of lift it adds, the rancho page says that it will make your truck able to run 35s but doesn't say what it needs to be paired with if anything.

 

I found only one video of a guy running 35s with them.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      That dog don't hunt. 😏   First, a 2025 with 12K on the clock AND idled for a year nonstop is false on it's face; this is 2026. You can do one or the other but not both.    Second, ENGINE HOURS are absolutely available. The rest is third grade math. Micky Mouse scanner he got out of a box of Cracker Jacks OR an ID10T error.    Third, if they ran it out of oil "Several times" that motor is boned on the first hit.    Does this guy think piling higher makes it stink less? 
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      That's interesting, I assume that would add to the cost of the oil but also I was forgetting to bring up the issue of the low tension rings allowing more oil past which in turn forces the cats to have more oil additives pass through them that wouldn't otherwise so they are creating that problem and of course its all in the name of fuel economy. Mind you the other issue would be the lack of additives that fight the formation of carbon within the piston ring grooves which turn the engine into an oil burner and with in this GM forums case is your average off the shelf Dexos licensed oil, meanwhile the other off the shelf oil being Valvoline's R&P isn't licensed and the only one that is which is that certain Mobil oil that came out recently ( its not even being marketed in Canada ) and only a fraction of vehicle owners are going to be using it out of all the other oils on the shelf or the quickie lube bay that meet the Dexos spec by way of actual licensing.    Also I suspect that its an easy excuse to pool the non turbo DI engines in with the turbo DI engines and design the oil to not have LSPI issues in the most demanding engines and short change the naturally aspirated DI by not offering a higher concentration of additive package they could handle and still not be at risk of LSPI.    I wonder if Amsoil flipped the switch just lately and did whatever packaging designation at the same time as I wonder what oil formulation I would have bought in May, of course I don't know when it was packaged at the factory vs how long it was in storage at the Edmonton warehouse. I know its been said at least in the past that the big players switch over to a reformulated oil but the packaging has not changed until they make that move as well so there is that cross over time where its a new formulation in a predated formula marked package. 
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Hmm. A real reason to not just use the odometer to determine OCI?    
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • StingerZ16
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By StingerZ16 · Posted

      I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...