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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

I ended up giving up and busting one of mine up really good with a pickle fork (was putting on new UCAs anyway).

 

I've always broke themapart with a hammer on other trucks, but couldn't get this one to budge. I let it hang for an hour after hammering. Sprayed it with penetrating fluid. Cranked the wheel back and forth. Beat on it from every direction and every height (jacked the lca up and down at various heights) and never could get it to bust loose with a hammer. The passenger one came apart much easier. Not sure why this one was so much harder.

 

 

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Maybe try putting a jack under the knuckle and jack it up a little bit. Then try whacking it with a sledge.

 

 

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'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

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KurtA Enthusiast

KurtA

Posted
Posted

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted

With the opposite side still up in the air with both sway bar links disconnected, you can disconnect the bottom strut bolts and loosen the top strut bolts and just about get the spacer on without compressing. I tried that, it would have worked if I would have had a second jack or a second set of hands to help compress the shock or the coil/upper arm.

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Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted (edited)

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

Edited by Mattvand
  • Like 1
'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

You put the bolt in from the bottom on the axle side.

'17 Sierra Enthusiast

'17 Sierra

Posted
Posted (edited)

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Lots of persuasion! With the RC kits being polymer, once you get a corner of it started, they tap in the rest of the way fairly easily.

Edited by '17 Sierra
SDH3BLK Enthusiast

SDH3BLK

Posted
Posted

Nice setup. Love those tires! Any room for larger size?

 

 

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Sorry never saw this, I think it can squeeze 35's just fine! Masbe with some slight trimming.

raress9596 Enthusiast

raress9596

Posted
Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

  • Like 1
SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

I have heard good things about the rancho quick lift other than they get rusty fast.

I want to get them as well but not sure if I'd rather get the fox ones.

 

 

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raress9596 Enthusiast

raress9596

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblies before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Edited by raress9596
  • Like 1
Psych73 Enthusiast

Psych73

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLE and installed the Bilstein 5100's on all four corners. You don't have to change the rear shocks if you don't want to but that's up to you. You will need an alignment. The stance to perfect with an 1/8 of inch. Ride has since gotten better and more comfortable. Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblys before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Can you do measurements of the amount of lift it adds, the rancho page says that it will make your truck able to run 35s but doesn't say what it needs to be paired with if anything.

 

I found only one video of a guy running 35s with them.

 

 

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      Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
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