Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2nd link isn't working. But the first link is what the lower spacer is supposed to look like. Looking up the 1303 kit in the second link I saw is the 2.5" kit so maybe your talking about the top strut spacer? It's kind of like a triangle with rounded sides more or less.

Not sure why the link did not work in my original post but it seems to be working in the quote on your post. I am not at all concerned with the upper strut spacer I fully expected that because that is one of the main differences between the 2" and the 2.5" leveling kit. However, if you look closely at the two different kits you will notice that the lower strut spacer is different. The lower strut spacer pictured with the 2.5" kit has a constant thickness where as the lower strut spacer pictured with the 2" kit has a variable thickness.

 

The one you received just looks to be maybe an older style or design. What does the materials feel like? The ones you expected isn't plastic, but feels kind of like a plastic. As said, it looks like it does the same thing and the fitment guide for it says it fits from 07-present 1500s so it should fit. Maybe someone sent you an older kit.

I agree with SouthernSilveradoGuy85. I believe I received an older style spacer. The material does feel like a plastic but I know from reading other posts in this thread that it is some type of glass resin composite. I will be calling Rough Country tomorrow to see what they have to say. Hopefully their literature is out of date and not my kit.

Posted

The first link in your message is to the 2" kit. The second link is to the 2.5" kit. Did they send you the wrong kit?

Posted

They stick out maybe a quarter inch. I have fuel maverick 20 wheels with +14 offset. No wheel spacers. Lift is a 2.5 Rough Country front only . 1af906e391628974ab1c87be8ebc056f.jpg50a7536706c5c480a8ab67877c9aa116.jpg7c2e731cb990e9a6ac802a842f366df4.jpg

How tall is the wheel well now up front? I want to do a larger lift on my truck but have a feeling I may do something like this. It's simpler and still looks great.

Posted

Hello ladies and gents,

 

I recently got an RC level and I tried installing it with help from a friend, but we ran into a problem.

The aft strut bolt hole sits directly below my front driveshafts. I can post pics of necessary but does anyone know what I can do about it without removing the upper ball joint entirely?

Posted

Hello ladies and gents,

 

I recently got an RC level and I tried installing it with help from a friend, but we ran into a problem.

The aft strut bolt hole sits directly below my front driveshafts. I can post pics of necessary but does anyone know what I can do about it without removing the upper ball joint entirely?

I ended up removing the ball joint nut completely and putting the new bolt in from the top so I wouldn't have to worry about it ribbing on the shaft.

Posted (edited)

Hello ladies and gents,

I recently got an RC level and I tried installing it with help from a friend, but we ran into a problem.

The aft strut bolt hole sits directly below my front driveshafts. I can post pics of necessary but does anyone know what I can do about it without removing the upper ball joint entirely?

Click on the link below for pictures.

"I had the same issue, one of the bolts would hit the CV shaft if I installed it with the head of the bolt on the bottom per the instructions from Rough Country.

With the upper ball joint and steering linkage ball joint disconnected I was able to tilt the hub assembly enough to get the CV shaft out of the way and then put the bolts in with the head on the top side and nuts on the bottom. Here are some pics.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=1505852

Edited by 15LTZZ71
Posted

Here is mine 3" front and 2 1/2 rear block which gives it 1.25 of lift in the back. It has a very slight rake. Not sure how much. post-135776-0-88526500-1415339081_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-88526500-1415339081_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-88526500-1415339081_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-88526500-1415339081_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

No leveling kits for the 2015 Denali 1500.



After speaking to Rough Country and BDS Suspension, a leveling kit for the 2015 Sierra 1500 Denali is a NO-GO. They said the magnetic ride suspension measures the vehicle rake and a leveling kit would throw it out of whack.



They said to try back after the new year and maybe they will have figured it out. Maybe will require reprogramming of the mag ride?



I'm kind of bummed about this. My truck should be here in two weeks and that was one of the first things I planned on doing. I'm very much looking forward to the mag ride though. We'll see....


  • Like 1
Posted

I leveled the front with a 3" kit from CCm Offroad (The kit I used fit 2007-2014), I also have air bags in the back I tow a trailer and didn't want the back to sag. the tires are cooper neon ltz 305/55r20

I also painted the center caps of the rims to match the rims. De badges and tinted the windows.

Posted

Anyone know if a 33x12.50x20 toyo open country rt will fit with a leveling kit without rubbing

 

That is exactly what I am running. I have a 2.25" level. I don't rub.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 532 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...