Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

gbo62280 Enthusiast

gbo62280

Posted
Posted

That's what I figured , guess I'll have to find a nice flat area and a wall . Anyone know the distance you should adjust them at and what height ?

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

I know with the GMC projection light the advice I've seen on here is to park around 20 feet away or so and shine the light on a wall/garage door. Do this with your stock height, and make some marks on the wall where your stock "cut line" is, then when you get your kit on the truck do the same thing and adjust the light to your marks on the wall. I'm not sure if there is a distinct point (GMC's "cut line") to where you can mark the light with your Chevy, but I'm sure there has to be some sort of point you would be able to make your mark so that you can adjust your lights after.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted

I know with the GMC projection light the advice I've seen on here is to park around 20 feet away or so and shine the light on a wall/garage door. Do this with your stock height, and make some marks on the wall where your stock "cut line" is, then when you get your kit on the truck do the same thing and adjust the light to your marks on the wall. I'm not sure if there is a distinct point (GMC's "cut line") to where you can mark the light with your Chevy, but I'm sure there has to be some sort of point you would be able to make your mark so that you can adjust your lights after.

Thanks I'll have to give it a try sounds like it's pretty straight forward .

Looking forward to having the ReadyLift installed but a little nervous at the same time lol Not so much with the Head lights but everything else .

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

usafwern05 Enthusiast

usafwern05

Posted
Posted

I like the stance. If you get the chance post some pics on level ground, I want to do something with mine. I have the same truck except White Diamond and a short box.

 

Here are a few more pics on the street with the truck on level ground. Let me know if you would like more pics and I'll get them for you. I received a lot of help from this forum and I want to return the favor haha.

 

IMG_1390_zps0634e5f9.jpg

 

IMG_1391_zpsa7e22bf1.jpg

IMG_1392_zps5cec903c.jpg

  • Like 3
axe124 Enthusiast

axe124

Posted
Posted

When I measured my wheel well from ground up...I got just shy of 38" in rear and in the front I was just shy of 36". So I went with the RC 2" level kit. I have it installed and love it, But visually I thought front looked higher. So I measured today, and again got just shy of 38" in rear, however now the front is a little more than 38". Appears that my 2" was a little more than 2". Although the total difference is 1/4", visually its driving me crazy. So...what can I put in the rear that's maybe 1/2" or less?

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

When I measured my wheel well from ground up...I got just shy of 38" in rear and in the front I was just shy of 36". So I went with the RC 2" level kit. I have it installed and love it, But visually I thought front looked higher. So I measured today, and again got just shy of 38" in rear, however now the front is a little more than 38". Appears that my 2" was a little more than 2". Although the total difference is 1/4", visually its driving me crazy. So...what can I put in the rear that's maybe 1/2" or less?

How long has it settled? It will come down slightly. Give it a few days if you haven't. Then if it's still bothersome, add the difference to the rear in the form of a new spacer, ie change the rear 1" block, I believe, for a 1.5 or 1.25 if available for an additional .5 or .25 lift. Every truck is slightly different in measurements, so 100% level may not be truly attainable.
T-Town-Z Enthusiast

T-Town-Z

Posted
Posted

 

 

Also was curious if those with 2 to 2 1/2 inch leveler kits feel the need or had to adjust there head lights down for better visibility and to not blind on coming traffic ?

The GMC's have a hex hole on top of the headlight housing and are very simple to adjust. I imagine the Silverados are similar.

Anyhow, the simplest way I know to adjust headlights is to find a flat driveway with a wall to shine your lights on while dark or dusk. Pull up to about 5 feet from it, and slowly back up. Watch if the horizontal line of your lights goes upward or downward. What works well is if when you back up, the light line slowly begins to go in the downward direction. This way you get as much distance ilumination as possible, without blinding oncoming traffic. Main thing is, you don't want the lights to move upward as you back away from the wall.

Another thing to consider, if you tow at night much, you may want to have your lights angle down just a little more, to keep from blinding others when you have weight on the back bumper.

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just measured My 14 Silverado 2WT and it was at a slight angle parked in my driveway since its angles down towards the bottom of driveway . Anyway 39" in the back and 36 1/2 in the front figured I should measure it before my 2.25 ReadyLift next week . It appears it should be perfect so will see . Eventually I'll probably add a different block in the back for a slight rake .

Edited by TheFactor
TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted

 

 

The GMC's have a hex hole on top of the headlight housing and are very simple to adjust. I imagine the Silverados are similar.

Anyhow, the simplest way I know to adjust headlights is to find a flat driveway with a wall to shine your lights on while dark or dusk. Pull up to about 5 feet from it, and slowly back up. Watch if the horizontal line of your lights goes upward or downward. What works well is if when you back up, the light line slowly begins to go in the downward direction. This way you get as much distance ilumination as possible, without blinding oncoming traffic. Main thing is, you don't want the lights to move upward as you back away from the wall.

Another thing to consider, if you tow at night much, you may want to have your lights angle down just a little more, to keep from blinding others when you have weight on the back bumper.

Thanks much that's going to be very helpful !
axe124 Enthusiast

axe124

Posted
Posted

How long has it settled? It will come down slightly. Give it a few days if you haven't. Then if it's still bothersome, add the difference to the rear in the form of a new spacer, ie change the rear 1" block, I believe, for a 1.5 or 1.25 if available for an additional .5 or .25 lift. Every truck is slightly different in measurements, so 100% level may not be truly attainable.

 

Thanks Texas Husker...I guess I'm going on the second week since the install, I'll give it a few more days. Where would be the best place to find these rear blocks? At this point I'm thinking more towards the 1.25 if they make them?

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

 

Thanks Texas Husker...I guess I'm going on the second week since the install, I'll give it a few more days. Where would be the best place to find these rear blocks? At this point I'm thinking more towards the 1.25 if they make them?

 

After 2 weeks, it should be settled, so your measurements are probably pretty spot on by now. Not sure if they make a 1.25" block for the K2s. There are 1.25" blocks out there, but not for our truck. 1.5" is readily available though. Can't find a definitive answer on last model rear blocks. Some say 1", others 1.25". Not sure if they would work on the new trucks though. I think they were 1" though. Someone else on here may have some more insight on it though.

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted

Anyone happen to have any pictures of there truck with the stock 17" and and stock tires with a 2.25" leveler or 2 1/2 . I'm getting a little worried since I ordered the ReadyLift that my truck might look ridiculous with all that wheel well and smallers tires . I'm going to have to drive it for a few months like that so I'm getting a little concerned .

Texas Husker Senior Enthusiast

Texas Husker

Posted
Posted

Anyone happen to have any pictures of there truck with the stock 17" and and stock tires with a 2.25" leveler or 2 1/2 . I'm getting a little worried since I ordered the ReadyLift that my truck might look ridiculous with all that wheel well and smallers tires . I'm going to have to drive it for a few months like that so I'm getting a little concerned .

There are some pics here with stock 20's: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/164549-pic-request-25-level-w-factory-20s-and-tires/

Rim size is obviously different, but will give you an idea on wheel well gap. If you are that worried about the look, just wait to install til you get the new tires. If you do install, don't worry about it so much. :cheers:

Sermed Enthusiast

Sermed

Posted
Posted

got installed 2.5 RC

 

Before it was 36 front, 39 Rear

After it is 39 Front, 40 Rear

 

here is a difference i feel, while on driving seat i feel the hood is more straight and feeling is good, secondly yes it is slightly higher the the original, slight stiffer on the humps, which i feel is better as original are too soft, i will test the stiffness on weekend when i take it offroad( mainly Desert) and will update you accordingly

TheFactor Enthusiast

TheFactor

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks that does help !

I'd really like to see some 17s and stock tires though . I hear Ya I should just get it and enjoy it but I can't lol ?

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

Edited by TheFactor

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am not techy at all but wondered if you have the truck running but sitting still in park as some functions gray out as soon as the truck is moving. I believe in the settings for updates you can choose for it NOT to update and I wonder by chance if maybe that was chosen before and now it won't allow you to chose to press update, I think that is back in the settings menu where it has all the items one wants on or off etc. Also I assume you have a wifi connection and checked that it has some signal strength, not that it would have anything to do with the grayed out updates choice in that case. What I am thinking out loud of here may be be of no value but thought I would suggest it, sometimes it can be the simplest thing that resolves an issue.  
    • Chuck FB
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      The so called rare failure that some certainly liked to tout ( die hard Ford fan boys ) as per the lifter failing and wiping out the cam. Back when it started happening the blame was being pointed to the lifters and honestly I never did hear anything myself conclusively one way or the other on that. Ford themselves in I believe 2024 had a technical bulletin I will call it that came out and for some engine platforms they were reprograming the engines idle speed but also they had a software update for the oil pump which then some time later was said what that software update did as to be increasing the oil pressure at idle. It is a good question if that issue was completely solved as one Ford specialist mechanic youtuber said he saw failures after that time period. Like anything there would be the variables, what oil is being used and the OCI and how much idle time gets put on an engine. I've seen some comments to claim that the L8T isn't so happy with high idle time either but I also know that companies that require their vehicle to idle a lot on the job don't tend to get the oil changed often enough for all those hours of idle time and go off of the odometer. 
    • bwiese
      Lower trims ( WT, Custom, Silverado ( aka LT )

      By bwiese · Posted

      My 2026 Silv. 1500 WT (reg cab/short bed/4wd) has the 40/20/40 with storage in lower middle seat as well as the fold-down center bolster/armrest.   With the dual glove boxes this is about as much storage as possible in a std cab IMHO. Bill
    • bwiese
      2026 Silv. 1500 WT reg cab: how many speakers do I have? Is amp module separate?

      By bwiese · Posted

      I have a 2026 base 1500 "WT" regular cab with basic Chevy "Infotainment 3" 7-inch screen/radio. How many speakers do I have If I want to upgrade? Is the audio amp separate from the radio/display unit]? [I listen to classical and it gets a bit raspy at slightly higher volumes. Don't need a sub etc.] Do I have two or 1 speakers in the doors? etc. Thanks Bill  San Jose
    • davester
      Bench seat swap for 2021-2024 suburban

      By davester · Posted

      probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...