Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Anyone have pictures of what there cv angles look like after a 2-2.5 inch level?

post-135776-0-61614900-1416201547_thumb.jpghere is a pic of my cv angle with a 3" I tho no I am going to drop it to a 2.5" I don't like the angle that it has.

post-135776-0-61614900-1416201547_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-61614900-1416201547_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-61614900-1416201547_thumb.jpg

Posted

I feel like a lot of these kits make the front end look higher up than the rear. Like an old 4 runner. Ha

 

I like the levels that do 1.5" front. Or 3" front and 2" rear. Does anyone know which kits do that?

Posted

The easiest and cheapest is an aluminum 3/4" thick lower front shock spacer from ebay. That'll get about 1 1/2" front lift. I've been running that since about May.

  • Like 1
Posted

I started to install my King shocks, RC UCAs, and Hellwig sway bars today. Right off the bat I ran into the dreaded "aftermarket interference" The Rough Country UCAs interfered with the frame flange. At first it looked like I could grind away a bit and it'd be fine. After grinding 1/2" off the flange and down to where the camber/caster cam is, I stopped. Still interference as you can see in the pix. Anyone thinking of buying the RC UCA for their 2014 should reconsider. I used their live chat and their guy said it fit. Frankly, these wouldn't fit any truck. No-mo RC anything for me.

 

 

Look forward to your thoughts on the King shocks. I have been doing a little reading/research on coilovers for our trucks. Looking at King, Fox and Camburg....just not sure which way to go.

Posted

Has anyone done a level and body lift yet? Think this might be my best/cheapest option to use stock wheels and 35's without using spacers.

 

Not sure if I should have posted in the lifted* thread..

Posted

Has anyone done a level and body lift yet? Think this might be my best/cheapest option to use stock wheels and 35's without using spacers.

 

Not sure if I should have posted in the lifted* thread..

 

 

yes that has been done. Check out this thread. Its for achieving 3.5-4" of lift on these trucks.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/163469-2014-gmc-sierra-35-4-lift/

  • Like 1
Posted

So I figured out what was wrong with the leveling kit. It was installed incorrectly, the top strut spacer was placed above the strut hat instead of under it. Stupid I know, I'm already kicking myself in the ass for letting it be done that way. The 1/2 spacer is ruined now. I want a new 1/2 spacer but I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have any suggestions? Should I try and make my own?

Posted

Just finished a 2.5 level front only. Can't believe how much different it looks. Now to try and deside on rims/tires

Pics! Before and after if ya got em

Posted (edited)

My angles with a 2" leveling kit right now20141118_164752_RichtoneHDR-1_zpsiz1g2i6

Well IMO those angles don't look too bad. What's everyone else think? Edited by Whiskey Bent
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

20x10 -12 Fuel Mav

33x12.50 Nitto Trl

2.5 R/C

 

attachicon.gifTruck.jpg attachicon.giftruck3.jpg

 

slight rub.

 

What do you guys think? what else should I do? new to the forum. Thanks.

 

 

 

Awesome looking truck. How is the negative offset with the rubbing? Is it only in reverse at full lock? I am really close to pulling the trigger on some new rims and the Fuel Mavericks and the Fuel Kranks are the 2 that I am looking at in that same -12 or possibly -24 with the 33 x 12.5 x 20 tires.

Edited by scottsglock17
Posted (edited)

So I figured out what was wrong with the leveling kit. It was installed incorrectly, the top strut spacer was placed above the strut hat instead of under it. Stupid I know, I'm already kicking myself in the ass for letting it be done that way. The 1/2 spacer is ruined now. I want a new 1/2 spacer but I can't find them anywhere. Anyone have any suggestions? Should I try and make my own?

 

I'm thinking you have a spring spacer??? Pics

Edited by spurshot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Part is $233.87.     Not sure where $900 came from?  
    • Looks like you have it figured out. Did you run a sensor into the rear diff housing?    What sort of diff temp swings would you see towing or not? I have wondered how hot it can get 
    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...