Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Well I'm through all 66 pages of this thread.

 

RC 2.5 seems right for me with 295 55 20's.

 

Any chance that the 2.5 will end up nose high?

Edited by Scott14
Posted

I still love the look....however I can't get better then 17 mpgs now. I live in Arizona. ....everything is flat and open so you get my point.dd54ec5eae83ce27594debb105f3c8e9.jpg

 

 

81f9c16c914b1a158593d02eea06ff3b.jpg

 

05641f6a77b77f5e3217c497a76dbc8a.jpg

Posted

When I measured my wheel well from ground up...I got just shy of 38" in rear and in the front I was just shy of 36". So I went with the RC 2" level kit. I have it installed and love it, But visually I thought front looked higher. So I measured today, and again got just shy of 38" in rear, however now the front is a little more than 38". Appears that my 2" was a little more than 2". Although the total difference is 1/4", visually its driving me crazy. So...what can I put in the rear that's maybe 1/2" or less?

Mine measures just under 40 on the front n rear after level kit. I have the z71 package. Is is also with 295/55/20 Toyo MT tires..... 4215de46a9cfba9986c9d80318fce38b.jpg524b71ffb017d076de3bee22a21aeae2.jpg
Posted

Here is a picture with my oem 18s and the level kit. f8c32f37a3d25280c2e2857561a80542.jpg

Looks good !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine measures just under 40 on the front n rear after level kit. I have the z71 package. Is is also with 295/55/20 Toyo MT tires..... 4215de46a9cfba9986c9d80318fce38b.jpg524b71ffb017d076de3bee22a21aeae2.jpg

What lift is on the truck in the background of that pic?

Posted

I'm about to buy this CCM 3" level. Any Pro's or Con's with this kit?

CCM071500_01__73974.1388099106.1280.1280

That's same lift I installed. I like the look but my cv angle is really bad. I going remove the the 3" and install a 2.5". I my tying to post pics of the cv angle the tech at the shop advised me to go with 2.5" to ease up the angle. post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just had my 2" RC level kit installed. It had been sitting under my rear seat for almost as long as I've had the truck. I had install and alignment done at the performance shop that built/maintained my last car. Install was pretty quick, but guys got stumped by the Hunter software telling them that the pinned insert was not supposed to be reused. The result is that I'm left with slightly out of spec caster on my left front wheel (Printout below). They are eager to get me perfectly dialed in but didn't want to take any chances, shop deals mostly in highe end euro, but i trust them.

 

Can anyone shed some light on this "pin system" shown in the Hunter software?

 

AlignmentSpecs

Rack

Options

Posted (edited)

I need a little help guys I'm torn between the two.

 

1st option is 1.5" readylift, remove the rear block and run a 285/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires.

 

2nd option is 2.25" readylift and a 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country RT tires.

 

20141112_164434_zpsy56ondte.jpg

Edited by never_rested_24-7
Posted

I need a little help guys I'm torn between the two.

 

1st option is 1.5" readylift, remove the rear block and run a 285/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires.

 

2nd option is 2.25" readylift and a 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country RT tires.

 

20141112_164434_zpsy56ondte.jpg

Option 2. These trucks look great leveled with 33s.

 

I would do a level and33s but it's just not tall enough for me personally with my truck

Posted (edited)

If you go cheap you're gonna have problems. Sure a spacer kit gets the job done but you will have upper ball joint issues. Its best to get a kit that has corrective UCAs.

Edited by 12amrdr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...