Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

 

If you order our standard Catch Can, you can let the order default to the bracket and we'll send you the correct one. The bracket we supply can be used on the master cylinder or battery box area, it's the same bracket for both locations.

 

Thanks!

:thumbs:

OK, now that I have the manufacturer here, I just ordered an Elite can for my 5.3. I looked at your instructions online and they are for the 6.2 with just an IPB for the 5.3 so it's not totally clear to me where the lines attach especially since I have seen photos on the Forum of the line going from the top of the can to the throttle body on one vehicle and from the top of the can to the side of the valve cover on another vehicle. So, please tell me, on the 5.3, the hose from the throttle body goes to which fitting on the can and the hose from the side of the valve cover goes to which fitting on the can? Thanks for the clarification.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted (edited)

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

Edited by Maine-iac
mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

Excellent, thank you. That's what I needed, flow direction.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

Anyone else notice that after several months that the amount of captured oil trend off and not only that is is now trending to be more pure oil and not so much water particulates?

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Anyone else notice that after several months that the amount of captured oil trend off and not only that is is now trending to be more pure oil and not so much water particulates?

Completely normal and this is due to the weather. In the winter time there is more condensation being caught in the can and in the summer time this condensation decreases. The amount of oil being caught is likely constant year round assuming all other parameters besides the outside temperature remain the same.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

That reminds me - haven't checked mine in 6 weeks! Probably should do that, especially after the many full-throttle bursts out on the mean streets of Mass. today ...

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

The line next to the throttle body goes to the top fitting of the can, and the line to the valve cover comes from the fitting on the side. Gases are pushed from the valley of the motor (fitting next to the throttle body), and are pushed through your catch can. The air then travels out the side fitting of your can into the valve cover/intake fitting.

 

That's correct. Sorry this isn't clearly labeled on our instruction sheet for the 5.3L engine

CalicoJack76 Enthusiast

CalicoJack76

Posted
Posted

Just from what I have seen and heard from others on here you do not need the check valve.

I ordered mine with the check valve? Will that cause any issues?

Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

I ordered mine with the check valve? Will that cause any issues?

 

 

No, not an issue at all. You're just preventing the potential for any back flow into the Catch Can (it's a good thing).

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

  • Like 1
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

 

 

Thank you, order should be shipping within 24 hours!

mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted

Just ordered my Elite Catch Can.... Finally... lol. 1,200 miles, should be very minimal build up so far. I ordered the larger one after hearing mjj say it fills up pretty quick here in MI winters. Also got the Black AN fittings. Can't wait to get this installed and see what it's going to catch...

Smart choice on the larger can. You'll be happy you got it in a few short months. I wonder if Elite sells just the larger can bottoms that I could retrofit onto mine.

mjb4450 Enthusiast

mjb4450

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just installed my Elite can. I've had billet tech and moroso cans before on other vehicles. Pisses me off that I decided not to mod this one when I bought it and it took 27k miles until I discovered this is the one vehicle that really needed a catch can. This Elite can is very nice quality. Just a couple minor points. The steel mesh was sticking out of the top of the can a bit so I had to shove it back down. And the "L" bracket will not fit in the cutout on the can without a little sanding of the edge of the bracket, it's very tight. Including an allen wrench in the kit would have been nice but no biggie. But I got about 6.5' of line which was just what I needed for my location and method. I put the can over the empty battery tray and routed the lines along OEM harnesses with zip ties and I put a loop on the side hose at the can to prevent any kinking. Looks real good, easy to get to and I figure it's better than on the brake booster, cooler location plus if I drop it it falls on the tray not the ground. The only install problem I had was with the "quick disconnect" lines at the air box. Mine seemed to be stuck and the tabs would not move so I had to get a little hostile with it and they finally loosened up and flexed so that the tabs would release. I was going to pull the throttle body but I was surprised that it was not that dirty. No puddles just a small black slick at the bottom of the throttle body. Customer service and delivery time from Elite was A+.

Edited by mjb4450
  • Like 1
jeffsig Enthusiast

jeffsig

Posted
Posted

Just installed my Elite can. I've had billet tech and moroso cans before on other vehicles. Pisses me off that I decided not to mod this one when I bought it and it took 27k miles until I discovered this is the one vehicle that really needed a catch can. This Elite can is very nice quality. Just a couple minor points. The steel mesh was sticking out of the top of the can a bit so I had to shove it back down. And the "L" bracket will not fit in the cutout on the can without a little sanding of the edge of the bracket, it's very tight. Including an allen wrench in the kit would have been nice but no biggie. But I got about 6.5' of line wjich was just what I needed for my location and method. I put the can over the empty battery tray and routed the lines along OEM harnesses with zip ties and I put a loop on the side hose at the can to prevent any kinking. Looks real good, easy to get to and I figure it's better than on the brake booster, cooler location plus if I drop it it falls on the tray not the ground. The only install problem I had was with the "quick disconnect" lines at the air box. Mine seemed to be stuck and the tabs would not move so I had to get a little hostile with it and they finally loosened up and flexed so that the tabs would release. I was going to pull the throttle body but I was surprised that it was not that dirty. No puddles just a small black slick at the bottom of the throttle body. Custome service and delivery time from Elite was A+.

Notice any hissing of the can? I just installed mine and wondering if its normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,589 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jl6690506
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By jl6690506 · Posted

      The 92-95 SCPI spider injectors are notoriously problematic and hard to source new replacements. I’d pull the intake manifold first to inspect cracked lines and brittle plastic legs before dropping $350 on a rebuild. The 1.5 OBD system only offers limited data, no misfire tracking, which is normal for this 1995 model. Enjoy the project!
    • Coastie05
      2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 8l90

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Yea a fluid change is in order here. Honestly, your transmission didn’t even get hot. During the summer in stop and go traffic I’ve seen my 8l80 get up to 216 and it was still shifting smoothly. 
    • newdude
      2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 8l90

      By newdude · Posted

      I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • LCH14
      2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 8l90

      By LCH14 · Posted

      Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...