Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

I now how DI works and why this is an issue, curious about the manual cleanings, GM response, etc. I have the Elite can bookmarked, itll be the next thing to go on the truck. Im already at 40k miles though.

 

manual cleaning is where they acutally remove the intake from the truck, then use a solvent on each valve head that cleans off the build up. Look up a video on youtube for the BG Direct Injection cleaning service.

Posted (edited)

 

how are you looking at your valves? with a scope cam?

I replaced the 5.3 intake and throttle body for the 6.2 intake and throttle body, checked then and took pictures. The pics are on my intake mod. it only takes about 30-40 min to remove and replace very easy.

 

RT

Edited by 07Softail
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I replaced the 5.3 intake and throttle body for the 6.2 intake and throttle body, checked then and took pictures. The pics are on my intake mod. it only takes about 30-40 min to remove and replace very easy.

 

RT

interesting, that much of an upgrade? I remember how easy it was to swap an ls1 intake to ls6 sure its similar.

Edited by jrob56
Posted

Ordered my elite can today, every time I drive it all I can think about is the valves getting bathed in oil haha. Looked up my wifes 4 cylinder equinox and looks like the dirty side of that is internal to the engine, nothing I can do for hers.

Posted

Ordered my elite can today, every time I drive it all I can think about is the valves getting bathed in oil haha. Looked up my wifes 4 cylinder equinox and looks like the dirty side of that is internal to the engine, nothing I can do for hers.

I basically stumbled upon what catch cans were due to my wife's Acadia having issues. What a mess that was. So as soon as I got my truck I decided better safe than sorry. I think you'll be happy with the Elite can, seems to do a good job. My only wish would be they had made the can like twice as big so you don't have to empty it so offer in the winter season. I see they say the E2 is larger, about double maybe so that'll be nice. Anyone know If you can get a longer replacement bottom portion for the 1st gen can?

Posted

I basically stumbled upon what catch cans were due to my wife's Acadia having issues. What a mess that was. So as soon as I got my truck I decided better safe than sorry. I think you'll be happy with the Elite can, seems to do a good job. My only wish would be they had made the can like twice as big so you don't have to empty it so offer in the winter season. I see they say the E2 is larger, about double maybe so that'll be nice. Anyone know If you can get a longer replacement bottom portion for the 1st gen can?

 

I bought the original I didnt see much difference besides size from the site unless I missed something, I dont need two exits. I figured Ill just unscrew it once or month or so cant fill up that fast I dont think. I drive around 10k miles a year.

Posted

 

I bought the original I didnt see much difference besides size from the site unless I missed something, I dont need two exits. I figured Ill just unscrew it once or month or so cant fill up that fast I dont think. I drive around 10k miles a year.

I live in MI and in the winter it would fill up in less than 500 miles. It's mostly a very watery mixture but I drive at least 350 mi to work each week so I was dumping it out every weekend.

Posted

Make sure if you have a GDI engine you get the Elite E2-X series. They are the ones designed to stop 95-98% of all the compounds. The original and E2 are fine for port injection, but will not stop the intake valve coking like their new E2-X line.

Posted

Make sure if you have a GDI engine you get the Elite E2-X series. They are the ones designed to stop 95-98% of all the compounds. The original and E2 are fine for port injection, but will not stop the intake valve coking like their new E2-X line.

315 dollars seems a little steep, seems most with any kind of catch can have decently clean valves.

Posted

I just received my order from Elite and was missing the clean air kit so I guess I will install catch can and install the clean air kit later ( tried calling no answer,left message,sent email and got a response at 1 o'clock that they were checking on it.lol)Will keep y'all posted

Posted

I just received my order from Elite and was missing the clean air kit so I guess I will install catch can and install the clean air kit later ( tried calling no answer,left message,sent email and got a response at 1 o'clock that they were checking on it.lol)Will keep y'all posted

***They got back with me and there were 2 different packages,Second package will be here tomorrowGreat people to deal with!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...