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2014+ R.A.P (Retained Accessory Power)

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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MotoMedic
MotoMedic

RAP aka Retained Accessory Power - powers on when the key is rotated to the first position and remains on until the ignition is turned completely off and the driver's door is opened (just like the fac

AaronIROCZ
AaronIROCZ

It really makes no difference, it is the OCD in me that wants the connector, it is just a square housing to hold the spade connectors, of which you would have to get special spade connectors to use th

Dunc
Dunc

Thank you for posting that! For other in the future, these are indeed the correct part numbers. Below is are the prices to give an understanding of what "...but not cheap" means. It's fairly annoying

Posted Images

MotoMedic Senior Enthusiast

MotoMedic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Has anyone actually used the GM connector in a 2014? When I originally went to dealer, they said that connector is different in the K2 vs GMT-900.

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted (edited)

So here is what I have so far. The junction block is referred to "junction block X61a" in GM speak. It is used for upfitter applications. Connector number is 13924036 but probably is the plastic part only, no leads. Here are the terminals.

 

1 - 6 not occupied

7 Battery Positive Voltage

8 Accessory Voltage

9 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data

10 Ground

11 Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage

12 - 16 not occupied

17 Battery Positive Voltage

18 not occupied

19 Vehicle Speed Signal

20 not occupied

 

I'll keep digging for the terminal numbers.

FYI here is a link for upfitters and others. Tons of info. http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf

Edited by tbarn
  • Like 1
tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Anyone know if there is a way to access the RAP while staying the in engine compartment?

 

Also what is the real big difference between getting the GM connector part # 20791502 and just using a simple spade connector?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. Will have to run a wire from interior. RAP only runs accessories. Sunroof, rear slider, outlets and a few more things depending on options.

  • 5 months later...
tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Anyone find a place to source this connector? Would a GM dealer have/get it? Any idea of the GM part number or would it be the same?

 

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

  • 4 months later...
darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey Yall, I'm so glad I found this thread.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

 

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

 

This looks like its designated as connector X7 on the junction block (x61.)

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

 

Pinout 10 is indeed ground and all the other pins cited appear to be correct.

 

I just dont know where the power is coming from (yet.)

Edited by darkfox1
GMMediumDutyMQ Enthusiast

GMMediumDutyMQ

Posted
Posted

Does anyone also have an "after" photo showing how they've tapped into the RAP? Lots of good before photos, but the way my brain is wired, I'd do well to see the completed wiring, too.

Thanks,

 

-Evan

Dunc Enthusiast

Dunc

Posted
Posted (edited)

# 10 & 11 are grounds

I just got done testing with the multimeter and my pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground. All of the other pins in your original image were the same as I got. I have a ’15 Denali so perhaps it is a model specific thing.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

Yes it is 12v+ and it is fused. The fuse for pin #8 is a 10amp ATR fuse. It is in position #2 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO RAP.”

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

I did not find any fuses for the 12v+ constants at pin #7 & 17. However, the switched 12v+ which is pin #11 on mine is fused. It is a 15amp ATR fuse. It is in position #30 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO ALC.”

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

You would just need a pin crimping tool. I prefer to solder my pins to the wire though, so I don't have a pin crimping tool.

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

See my reply to MotoMedic. At least on mine, pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground.

See the red text.

Edited by Dunc
  • Like 1
jimlem Enthusiast

jimlem

Posted
Posted

 

I just can't find the correct size spade connector to fit these. I even have the connector, part # 20791502 (was for my 2013) and never installed it because it did not come with these spade connectors.

Try mouser.com. They will even have the correct plug to fit the vacant plug socket. You just need to know the part # first. They also sell any/every GM male and female connector out there.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Dunc Enthusiast

Dunc

Posted
Posted

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

Thank you for posting that! For other in the future, these are indeed the correct part numbers. Below is are the prices to give an understanding of what "...but not cheap" means. It's fairly annoying that they come pre-wired and the larger pins have huge 12ga wire on them. I cut the wire off very close to the pin and soldered my wires I had already ran to the pins. Word of advice though is don't do this. Give yourself a little bit of the pre-wired wire because the hole in the connector that the pin goes in doesn't have much wiggle room. For those that do the connector route you can see another picture below for reference. If you stick the pin in the wrong hole just use a probe to lift up on the tab that my safety pin tip is touching and then just pull the wire back out.

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
darkfox1 Senior Enthusiast

darkfox1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sort of reviving this thread here. Do I need both sets of wires if i'm just pulling RAP and ground off of this? Or only the large/small depending on my amperage?

 

Looks like from pics that the pins may be different sizes,but can't tell from looking at that or in person.

 

I was looking at using Pin 8 to power some switches that will be backlit and used to pull in a battery sourced relay, so that the bcm can shut off the lights if I leave the switch on.

 

Also, those 3 parts come to about $48 shipped from IAMGMPARTS. They're a dealership in Jackson MS. apparently. So if you're near there you could probably get em to waive the shipping. (maybe.) They're a bit slow getting things in the mail but once they do it gets there quick for me and the prices tend to be very competitive with GMPD.

Edited by darkfox1

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