Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone actually used the GM connector in a 2014? When I originally went to dealer, they said that connector is different in the K2 vs GMT-900.

Posted (edited)

So here is what I have so far. The junction block is referred to "junction block X61a" in GM speak. It is used for upfitter applications. Connector number is 13924036 but probably is the plastic part only, no leads. Here are the terminals.

 

1 - 6 not occupied

7 Battery Positive Voltage

8 Accessory Voltage

9 Low Speed GMLAN Serial Data

10 Ground

11 Run/Crank Ignition 1 Voltage

12 - 16 not occupied

17 Battery Positive Voltage

18 not occupied

19 Vehicle Speed Signal

20 not occupied

 

I'll keep digging for the terminal numbers.

FYI here is a link for upfitters and others. Tons of info. http://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf

Edited by tbarn
  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone know if there is a way to access the RAP while staying the in engine compartment?

 

Also what is the real big difference between getting the GM connector part # 20791502 and just using a simple spade connector?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

Posted

Looks like all of the RAP powered devices are inside. Sorry.

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So there's no known way to access the RAP from the engine compartment? No fuse or wire that could be spliced?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. Will have to run a wire from interior. RAP only runs accessories. Sunroof, rear slider, outlets and a few more things depending on options.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Anyone find a place to source this connector? Would a GM dealer have/get it? Any idea of the GM part number or would it be the same?

 

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hey Yall, I'm so glad I found this thread.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

 

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

 

This looks like its designated as connector X7 on the junction block (x61.)

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

 

Pinout 10 is indeed ground and all the other pins cited appear to be correct.

 

I just dont know where the power is coming from (yet.)

Edited by darkfox1
Posted

Does anyone also have an "after" photo showing how they've tapped into the RAP? Lots of good before photos, but the way my brain is wired, I'd do well to see the completed wiring, too.

Thanks,

 

-Evan

Posted (edited)

# 10 & 11 are grounds

I just got done testing with the multimeter and my pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground. All of the other pins in your original image were the same as I got. I have a ’15 Denali so perhaps it is a model specific thing.

 

Can anyone tell me if the RAP is 12v? Is it fused? If so where? Whats the amperage?

Yes it is 12v+ and it is fused. The fuse for pin #8 is a 10amp ATR fuse. It is in position #2 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO RAP.”

What about the 12v constant? (same questions.)

I did not find any fuses for the 12v+ constants at pin #7 & 17. However, the switched 12v+ which is pin #11 on mine is fused. It is a 15amp ATR fuse. It is in position #30 in the door jam fuse panel and it’s labeled “SEO ALC.”

 

Do I need a special tool to put the lead into the connector?

You would just need a pin crimping tool. I prefer to solder my pins to the wire though, so I don't have a pin crimping tool.

 

According to this pinout 11 is not a ground but "run/crank ignition 1 voltage." Is that an odd way of saying ground?

See my reply to MotoMedic. At least on mine, pin #11 is a switched 12v+ and not a ground.

See the red text.

Edited by Dunc
  • Like 1
Posted

 

I just can't find the correct size spade connector to fit these. I even have the connector, part # 20791502 (was for my 2013) and never installed it because it did not come with these spade connectors.

Try mouser.com. They will even have the correct plug to fit the vacant plug socket. You just need to know the part # first. They also sell any/every GM male and female connector out there.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

P/N 19328970 connector

P/N 13575832 lead as required

P/N 13578892 lead as required

Available from GM dealers but not cheap

Thank you for posting that! For other in the future, these are indeed the correct part numbers. Below is are the prices to give an understanding of what "...but not cheap" means. It's fairly annoying that they come pre-wired and the larger pins have huge 12ga wire on them. I cut the wire off very close to the pin and soldered my wires I had already ran to the pins. Word of advice though is don't do this. Give yourself a little bit of the pre-wired wire because the hole in the connector that the pin goes in doesn't have much wiggle room. For those that do the connector route you can see another picture below for reference. If you stick the pin in the wrong hole just use a probe to lift up on the tab that my safety pin tip is touching and then just pull the wire back out.

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-10907900-1427375817_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-85360700-1427375824_thumb.jpg

post-138385-0-45563300-1427375832_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Sort of reviving this thread here. Do I need both sets of wires if i'm just pulling RAP and ground off of this? Or only the large/small depending on my amperage?

 

Looks like from pics that the pins may be different sizes,but can't tell from looking at that or in person.

 

I was looking at using Pin 8 to power some switches that will be backlit and used to pull in a battery sourced relay, so that the bcm can shut off the lights if I leave the switch on.

 

Also, those 3 parts come to about $48 shipped from IAMGMPARTS. They're a dealership in Jackson MS. apparently. So if you're near there you could probably get em to waive the shipping. (maybe.) They're a bit slow getting things in the mail but once they do it gets there quick for me and the prices tend to be very competitive with GMPD.

Edited by darkfox1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...