2014+ Power Tailgate Lock installed

sugarjohnson · March 19, 2015

Is that bolt secured tightly? Both pieces of that cam thingy?

Yeah I tightened that bolt down good. I think it's the arm itself and the springs that rattle.

Crf450r420 · March 19, 2015

Thank you - the pics and info were invaluable.

Awesome, glad I could help.

mdmischief · March 24, 2015

I'm missing the E-clip. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can get one from the hardware store?

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DeePa · March 25, 2015

Can't help you with the e-clip size, sorry.

I did this mod yesterday...took an hour or so. Hardest part was running the wire over the gas tank next to the frame rail. It was cold out so the wire harness was very stiff and I should have unwrapped it a day before to stretch out.

Wire colors are for Sierra SLT Z71 Crew...gray with green stripe and brown with yellow stripe are the correct colors in the drivers door sill.

You can use a straight pick to get that snap on cover off over the wires. Hit the side near the seat first, slide the pick in, start from the front and work your way back. Be patient and you'll be fine.

I stripped off insulation so I had about 1/8" of an inch of wire exposed. Used the pick to make a hole in the copper strands, snuck the new wire through, braided it up and soldered. Wrapped with electrical tape and buried back inside the harness as far away as the other connection as I could. I cut off about a foot or so but also left excess in the kick paned in case I need to change something down the road. I also used the pick to make a hole in the shift cable boot to sneak the wires through. The grommet used to bring the wires into the cab is the transmission shift cable, not the parking brake.

The actuator is loud but I'd rather hear it than guess.

Thanks everyone for their help...this post is very informative.

Mike

DenaliLama · March 25, 2015

I'm missing the E-clip. Can anyone tell me what size it is so I can get one from the hardware store?

Mine was missing as well. I re-installed the original and the company shipped one out that I inatalled a week later. You could take original to size replacement.

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Edited March 25, 2015 by DenaliLama

mdmischief · April 14, 2015

So I installed this on Sunday. E-clip is 1/4" and can be found at any hardware store.

For the wiring, I followed the directions in post #98 except that I simply stripped the blue and green wires, tucked them into the plug making sure to put them on the side under compressions when in it's normal position, and then zip tired the wire to the wire bundles at the BCM. No solder, no risk of breaking the wires, completely removable if necessary.

JaronM3 · April 23, 2015

Great directions! This was the easiest DIY mod I've done!

Tom S. · May 15, 2015

Hi, I joined this forum for the express purpose of thanking MotoMedic for this great write up. Thinks to his DIY post, I just finished installing one of these on my 2015 Silverado 3500 Dually. I will say that if you have a crewcab with a long box, don't waste any of the wire when routing because you have just enough - unless you spool out some of the tailgate wire, which could mess you up if/when you need to remove the tailgate. Pops&Locks should throw their instructions away and pay David to use his write up. It's much better! Thanks.

szalkerous · May 24, 2015

Installed my pop & lock today on my new 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab standard box SLT and it went great. Thank you to Motomedic and all who contributed to this thread. It helped a lot!

I decided to go with pressing the unlock on the keyfob twice to unlock the tailgate. Here's the wiring that worked:

- vehicle's fat brown with yellow stripe attached to the green pop & lock wire

- vehicle's fat gray with green stripe attached to the blue pop & lock wire

When I was finished, I found that I couldn't lock the tailgate with the key. After investigating, I found the new C-clip was moving with the key, causing the locking mechanism to flip to unlock when I returned the key to 12 o'clock to remove it.

The fix: I had to remove the C-clip and re-install it so that the mouth of the C-clip was facing "down" towards the hinge point of the tailgate. Originally I had the mouth of the C-clip facing "up." Hope that helps someone on their install.

Thanks again to a great thread.

Got around to finally doing my tailgate lock in between putting a new clutch in the Camaro. Wanted to say thanks to the OP and the guy above for pointing out the two wires to put the lock on second FOB press. That's the way it should be, I say. The unlock switches on the doors operate it, two presses of the remote unlock operate it, and one press of lock on all operate it.

I had the wiring done in 10 minutes, it took me a lot longer to prep and run the wire up the chassis. I chose to run my wire inside flex tubing wrapped with electrical tape, similar to factory style. Being up in the North East, anything you can do to keep the salt off stuff is worth it. I ran along the factory harness until I hit the floor grommet and went that route. It's far easier than anything else I saw under there. I re-zipped the wire bundle like it had from the factory. Run the ziptie from the inside under, and when you see the tip on the other side, use small needlenose to pull up on it while you push, you'll get it through. Also I didn't have my good multimeter handy, so I used a cheap one. It was too slow to read 12 volts I think, I saw 5-6v on unlock, and somewhere around -3v on lock. It was a solid connection and operates the tailgate as it should. Tested it at the bundle, at the weather connection, and at the tailgate.

I have a full Line-X and bed cover, and I can hear the lock, but it's not disturbing.

This is on a 2015 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab Regular Bed. (Z71+Backup camera if that matters..don't think it does.)

PS: For a truck with 2,000 miles, it sure does have a disturbing amount of rust already.

Edited May 24, 2015 by szalkerous

Cdal1 · May 24, 2015

Got around to finally doing my tailgate lock in between putting a new clutch in the Camaro. Wanted to say thanks to the OP and the guy above for pointing out the two wires to put the lock on second FOB press. That's the way it should be, I say. The unlock switches on the doors operate it, two presses of the remote unlock operate it, and one press of lock on all operate it.

I had the wiring done in 10 minutes, it took me a lot longer to prep and run the wire up the chassis. I chose to run my wire inside flex tubing wrapped with electrical tape, similar to factory style. Being up in the North East, anything you can do to keep the salt off stuff is worth it. I ran along the factory harness until I hit the floor grommet and went that route. It's far easier than anything else I saw under there. I re-zipped the wire bundle like it had from the factory. Run the ziptie from the inside under, and when you see the tip on the other side, use small needlenose to pull up on it while you push, you'll get it through. Also I didn't have my good multimeter handy, so I used a cheap one. It was too slow to read 12 volts I think, I saw 5-6v on unlock, and somewhere around -3v on lock. It was a solid connection and operates the tailgate as it should. Tested it at the bundle, at the weather connection, and at the tailgate.

I have a full Line-X and bed cover, and I can hear the lock, but it's not disturbing.

This is on a 2015 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab Regular Bed. (Z71+Backup camera if that matters..don't think it does.)

PS: For a truck with 2,000 miles, it sure does have a disturbing amount of rust already.

Did you have to cut the line x after taking bolts off of the tailgate panel to remove it?

I haven't received my ordered truck yet that is coming with the spray in bedliner so not sure what it exactly looks like.

szalkerous · May 24, 2015

Did you have to cut the line x after taking bolts off of the tailgate panel to remove it?

I haven't received my ordered truck yet that is coming with the spray in bedliner so not sure what it exactly looks like.

I didn't get a factory spray, my dealership hired a local Line-X contractor. They pulled the access panel and sprayed it off the truck. Worth it when I went to do this. It didn't even stick after the bolts were taken out.

If they spray the bolts, make the dealership fix it. Nobody should expect that. As for cutting around the panel, can't really say.

Edited May 24, 2015 by szalkerous

Cdal1 · May 24, 2015

I didn't get a factory spray, my dealership hired a local Line-X contractor. They pulled the access panel and sprayed it off the truck. Worth it when I went to do this. It didn't even stick after the bolts were taken out.

If they spray the bolts, make the dealership fix it. Nobody should expect that. As for cutting around the panel, can't really say.

Ok thanks guess I'll have to wait and see how the factory does it. Hopefully they do it like your guy did, would make it a lot easier for me.