Jump to content

2014+ Intakes (CAI) & Air Filters

GMC-AT

By GMC-AT
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 915
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Silverado Steve
Silverado Steve

Zero benefit other than not having to replace a paper filter every 24K. Most dry oil filters actually let larger particulates in the engine....IMO these products are snake oil and the benefits are no

russ9443
russ9443

Installed an S&B tonight. Install was easy. The air box is a bit bigger than stock, rests pretty close to the headlight plug. Have the butt dyno scheduled for tomorrow:).       Sent from

newdude
newdude

4 dealers left in the US that show stock for the GM one for 2017.  P/N 84533096   ALEXANDER CHEVROLET- GMC - BUICK (DICKSON, TN)   HERITAGE BUICK-PONTIAC-GMC (ROCKWALL, TX)

Posted Images

Z45 Senior Enthusiast

Z45

Posted
Posted

What many people don't take into consideration is that there is a throttle valve connected to your gas pedal that is constantly restricting the air flow into the engine and the computer determines how much fuel to mix with the air. The only time it is not restricting the airflow is when it is wide open throttle (WOT). That means that you are buying a modification that helps you race or pass at WOT, its benefit is trivial in normal everyday driving.

 

  • Like 1
Prokopchuk_9 Senior Enthusiast

Prokopchuk_9

Posted
Posted

I've seen lots of CAI shoot outs, usually like 5-10hp at 5000rpm. Anywhere where it's useable power or torque doesn't make too much a difference. But depends on the vehicle, I know some actually make a difference that you can feel in the seat. I did CAI on a 2002 and a 2006, didn't really notice any difference in power or mileage. Just a noise maker.

 

The stock Intakes with just an aftermarket elbow flow pretty damn good. The new ones probly even better I imagine who knows..

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

Here's my "CAI" gained about 120rwhp lolololol

 

eheja9y5.jpg

Ummm... That doesn't look like it will be a CAI for long but I would sure like to see that in a shoot-out with the K&N and a couple others!

Prokopchuk_9 Senior Enthusiast

Prokopchuk_9

Posted
Posted

Here's my "CAI" gained about 120rwhp lolololol

 

Ummm... That doesn't look like it will be a CAI for long but I would sure like to see that in a shoot-out with the K&N and a couple others!

Lol it was a joke. She piles in LOTS of cold air lol

 

It's a compound turbo kit...the air filter points straight down on the front.

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted

Lol it was a joke. She piles in LOTS of cold air lol

 

It's a compound turbo kit...the air filter points straight down on the front.

Yeah, I got it, I couldn't see the other turbo on my little phone screen and it just looked like pressure side goes straight to intake which will create a lot of heat soak, real quick if it makes much power at all, but I can't really tell what's going on on this little screen.

Prokopchuk_9 Senior Enthusiast

Prokopchuk_9

Posted
Posted

Lol it was a joke. She piles in LOTS of cold air lol

It's a compound turbo kit...the air filter points straight down on the front.

 

Yeah, I got it, I couldn't see the other turbo on my little phone screen and it just looked like pressure side goes straight to intake which will create a lot of heat soak, real quick if it makes much power at all, but I can't really tell what's going on on this little screen.

Ya the other is in the valley, pressure side goes straight to the other turbo. it runs much cooler than a single turbo set up. One feeds the other, much quicker spool up, WAY cooler EGT's, lower drive pressure (the pressure on the exhaust side, high drive pressure is the cause of lots of different issues) and makes twice the boost. the stock VGT in the valley makes boost right off idle and the big atmospheric (75mm) starts to spool at about 15 psi. Together they make about 60psi.

 

I can pull 10 grand up a 6% grade on the hottest tune (more fuel/timing=heat) at about 125km/he with the truck on cruise in OD and it won't go above 850-900 degrees. Before this truck had twins it would spike 1500 degrees in 20 seconds trying that. I have a video to prove it too. Running empty I can't make my EGT gauge go passed 1250 if I tried, which is pretty cool considering the tuning in running is pretty wild. And it will still get about 18mpg empty, that's with 35's too.

 

The main purpose of a set-up like this is for cooler operation, reliability and more HP. The ONLY downfalls are more of a clutter under the hood, oil temps are a little higher at times cuz your lubing two turbos instead of one and I have zero emissions system in place so if they change the laws here I'm screwed LOL. Other than that it's been Bullet proof, 130k miles on it now running big boost with no issues(lots of supporting mods though) It's a ton of fun on the street, not much will touch it except some sports cars and it tows like a dream.

iCryWheniGoPoop Enthusiast

iCryWheniGoPoop

Posted
Posted (edited)

What many people don't take into consideration is that there is a throttle valve connected to your gas pedal that is constantly restricting the air flow into the engine and the computer determines how much fuel to mix with the air. The only time it is not restricting the airflow is when it is wide open throttle (WOT). That means that you are buying a modification that helps you race or pass at WOT, its benefit is trivial in normal everyday driving.

 

So... By your theory, 1/2" diameter tubing as an intake tube will be sufficient until we hit WOT? Your explanation almost makes sense if we were simply talking about volume/area... unfortunately CFM is the topic of discussion which can be skewed dramatically just by turbulent air alone and turbulent air at the MAF sensor can cause a whole other issue in itself. A 4" square tube with a couple squared off 90* bends will more than likely not flow as much as a straight 3" round tube or one with a couple mandrel bent 90*s in it for that matter. In a sense you are correct in saying that over sizing is useless but only if CFM loss/gain has a directly correlated to the change in size.

 

What I'm trying to get at is a good intake is a valid modification especially if the factory intake is inefficient, and even more so as a supporting mod to something like a cam, heads and the like.

 

My .02

Steve

Edited by iCryWheniGoPoop
SY2455 Enthusiast

SY2455

Posted
Posted

Just wondering if anyone has tried any of the new Airaid part #'s for the 6.2 ? They have the following part numbers listed. 200-111, 201-111 = Red filter, 202-111 = black filter, 203-111 = blue filter. I plan on calling Airaid on Monday to find out the difference between these and the 5.3 part #s. My 2014LTZ has been order and is in the Queued For Production Phase. Can anyone tell me how long that takes?

LTZTom Enthusiast

LTZTom

Posted
Posted
Just wondering if anyone has tried any of the new Airaid part #'s for the 6.2 ? They have the following part numbers listed. 200-111, 201-111 = Red filter, 202-111 = black filter, 203-111 = blue filter. I plan on calling Airaid on Monday to find out the difference between these and the 5.3 part #s. My 2014LTZ has been order and is in the Queued For Production Phase. Can anyone tell me how long that takes?

Could you let me know the difference when you find out? I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks!!

 

 

Tapatalk via iPhone 5s

1972c10Custom Enthusiast

1972c10Custom

Posted
Posted

I added the Volant CIA on my 2014 Sierra 6.2L..it increased the throttle response more than my 2009 Sierra 6.2L the big difference is the 2009 sounded awesome because it blended well with the factory exhaust which you could actually hear, the 2014 exhaust is quite so all you hear is the CAI w/ zero exhaust sound. So today I ordered the Magnaflow cat back exhaust part# 15318 single 3.5 in. Side exit. I'm hoping this fixes the over bearing CAI noise. I'll post an update after it's installed the exhaust is not available until 3/28.

  • Like 1
Full Lock Enthusiast

Full Lock

Posted
Posted

I added the Volant CIA on my 2014 Sierra 6.2L..it increased the throttle response more than my 2009 Sierra 6.2L the big difference is the 2009 sounded awesome because it blended well with the factory exhaust which you could actually hear, the 2014 exhaust is quite so all you hear is the CAI w/ zero exhaust sound. So today I ordered the Magnaflow cat back exhaust part# 15318 single 3.5 in. Side exit. I'm hoping this fixes the over bearing CAI noise. I'll post an update after it's installed the exhaust is not available until 3/28.

Yeah please post up a sound clip of the exhaust.

Sooperdave Enthusiast

Sooperdave

Posted
Posted

I installed an Airaid CAI yesterday. Pretty simple and clean installation. I took it for a drive and my "butt dyno" tells me it made a difference. Seems a lot more responsive and noise it make when you stand on it is really impressive. With the 2 in/2 out Flowmaster dual exhaust and the roar of CAI it sounds and feels like I'm driving a NASCAR truck :D . Couldn't be happier.

 

 

Nice!! I bet it sounds awesome!

Sooperdave Enthusiast

Sooperdave

Posted
Posted

I added the Volant CIA on my 2014 Sierra 6.2L..it increased the throttle response more than my 2009 Sierra 6.2L the big difference is the 2009 sounded awesome because it blended well with the factory exhaust which you could actually hear, the 2014 exhaust is quite so all you hear is the CAI w/ zero exhaust sound. So today I ordered the Magnaflow cat back exhaust part# 15318 single 3.5 in. Side exit. I'm hoping this fixes the over bearing CAI noise. I'll post an update after it's installed the exhaust is not available until 3/28.

Definitely post up results!

SY2455 Enthusiast

SY2455

Posted
Posted (edited)

Could you let me know the difference when you find out? I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks!! Tapatalk via iPhone 5s

The reply that I got is as follows.

 

"The only difference is the 6.2 has a different coupler to connect to the throttle body."

 

Edited by SY2455

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...